New Toy

[koda2000]

Not much going on today. I'm now 99% sure the reason my heater doesn't produce heat is due to a bad blend door actuator. I tested the wiring today and it seems okay, at least it provides power and ground. I hope to remove the actuator tomorrow and check it visually. That rear actuator bolt looks like a bear to get at.

I pulled a spark plug to check their condition. I was pleased to see a fairly new Autolite Platinum if very good condition, even if it was gapped a bit wide. It looks like the wires have also been replaced. But I think someone chickened out and didn't replace the last plug (#3?) on the passenger side, or replace its wire. So I guess I'll pull them all and check/replace as necessary. I guess that explains the one extra spark plug and plug wire I found in an plug wire box in the bed. Wonder if I kept them? That plug looks like it's going to be a beeach to get at. Any suggestions? I've got plenty of extensions and u-joints. (I've since learned it's easiest if you go through the plastic inner fender a piece of cake if you remove the inner fender first).

It looks as if a package of parts is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, so I should have some more interesting stuff to do soon.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I've only changed plugs in mine once, but I don't remember that one to be any worse than the rest. Go through the wheelwell. The plugs I can see were the most difficult for me to reach. The ones I couldn't see were actually easier to get to, even though I was working blind.

 

[sr139fox]

Go through the wheel well. I used a swivel ratchet. Take your time. Use anti seize. Dave p

 

[koda2000]

Thanks guys, through the wheel well I will go. That's how I've done the plugs on my 5.0L's (super easy). It appears whoever installed the plug wires didn't bother to put boot grease on the plug ends, so that makes pulling the boots a lot harder. I'll get them off one way or another. I know it couldn't have been the PO who changed the plugs & wires as the wires are routed correctly and nothing is missing or broken... LOL. Oh wait, I'll bet that's how the top of the A/C high pressure switch got broken off.

 

[koda2000]

Ok. I had to move the antenna lead, grind down a cheap socket as thin as possible and use a really thin ratcheting device, but I got the blend door actuator off. I haven't tested it yet (ran out of time) but I'll get back to it later today. The ratchet I used was from a set of Ace Hardware ratcheting wrenches, which had a 3/8's and 1/4" socket adaptor. The socket was a 5/16's from a $29 socket set (same as 8mm). It had a much deeper throat, so I was able to grind a lot off of it. I ground it down to bolt-head depth. The tool ended up being quite a bit thinner than my 1/4" ratchet even with the ground down socket. Probably about 3/8" thinner and I needed every bit of that. Putting the rear bolt back in will be challenging (just enough room to get 2 forefingers in there) but I think I can do it.

It worked very well on the rear bolt (once I got the socket on it) and was okay for loosening the front 2 bolts, but I had to finish the front 2 with an 8mm wrench as the ratchet would get stuck against the bottom of the dash before the bolts came out.

Here's a pic of what I used. I guess I'll add it to my "Special Tools Draw".

Here's the new blend door actuator I plan on buying:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heater-A-C-...plorer+Sport+Trac&hash=item565a8a21f2&vxp=mtr

 

[koda2000]

Update:
I tested the actuator while it was removed. key ON, TEMP control COLD thru HOT, direction control on VENT and got no movement out of the actuator. I then opened the actuator up to examine the insides. The gears are all good and if I apply power to the motor directly it spins and the actuator does what it's supposed to. I'm guessing whatever the problem is has to do with the electronics inside the actuator, as the wiring is providing 12V power and ground. I wish I could rule out the TEMP control switch, but other than removing the switch from my XLT to try it in the ST (to much work) I don't know how else to test it. So I'm going to take a $27 gamble and order a new actuator and hope for the best.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Do you know what brand that actuator is? If it's a dorman I would shy away from it. Myself and others on here have had issues with DOA dorman units. I ended up getting Motorcraft actuator and calling it a day. We have had torrential downpours up here the last couple of days so I haven't had a chance to pull that lock actuator yet. The weather is looking better later today so hopefully I'll get it done today when I get off work. If you like I can pull the blend door actuator as well. Does the ST have manual or EATC controls? If you want it you can have it and I'll just send it with the lock actuator. I'll be my gift to your project. Did the P.O. bring you any presents today?

 

[koda2000]

Hi Al,

I received your package today. Nice packing job. Everything looks good. I installed the battery box and mirror switch already (which works fine). I started working on replacing the LR window guts. Everything looks like it matches, however, although I removed all the trim weather stripping and rear quarter glass, the window cannot be removed from the door without first drilling out the rivets from the glass mounting bracket. I'm in the process of doing this now, but my drill battery went dead and like a dummy I hadn't recharged my backup battery, so I had to recharge it (a good time for lunch). I managed to remove the part with the nylon slides from the center post you sent me. I plan to install it on my glass bracket with two small grade eight bolts and nyloc nuts.

The other day you said you had sent me the LR lock actuator and would sent me the RF actuator. Was the LR actuator supposed to be in this larger shipment? because it wasn't in the box.

BTW, I never asked you what color your parts truck was, but it's apparently silver, so I don't even need to paint the hinge. Cool!

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Hi Al,


The other day you said you had sent me the LR lock actuator and would sent me the RF actuator. Was the LR actuator supposed to be in this larger shipment? because it wasn't in the box.

BTW, I never asked you what color your parts truck was, but it's apparently silver, so I don't even need to paint the hinge. Cool!

Yes, the LR actuator should have been in there. I rolled it in paper and put it all the way on the bottom next to the battery tray. Let me know if you don't find it, I'm 99% sure I put it in there.(you've got me guessing on the other 1%) My parts truck is actually some sort of gold-ish/tan-ish color. Not sure of the exact color. I answered earlier in the thread today about the blend door actuator. If you want, I'll send you the one that I have when I send the other lock actuator. My gift to your project.

 

[chefduane]

Update:
I tested the actuator while it was removed. key ON, TEMP control COLD thru HOT, direction control on VENT and got no movement out of the actuator. I then opened the actuator up to examine the insides. The gears are all good and if I apply power to the motor directly it spins and the actuator does what it's supposed to. I'm guessing whatever the problem is has to do with the electronics inside the actuator, as the wiring is providing 12V power and ground. I wish I could rule out the TEMP control switch, but other than removing the switch from my XLT to try it in the ST (to much work) I don't know how else to test it. So I'm going to take a $27 gamble and order a new actuator and hope for the best.

HEY!! Don't buy that actuator. I have a NEW actuator and blend door from Rockauto that I did not need. Will PM you.

 

[koda2000]

Yes, the LR actuator should have been in there. I rolled it in paper and put it all the way on the bottom next to the battery tray. Let me know if you don't find it, I'm 99% sure I put it in there.(you've got me guessing on the other 1%) My parts truck is actually some sort of gold-ish/tan-ish color. Not sure of the exact color. I answered earlier in the thread today about the blend door actuator. If you want, I'll send you the one that I have when I send the other lock actuator. My gift to your project.

Well, my 3 year old grandson was helping me unpack and throw the newspaper away. I'll check through the recycling and see if it's in there, but I didn't notice it when I was pulling the paper out of the box.

I just finished up installing the LR window parts and it's now working. Hooray! No more 2x4 keeping the window closed. I have to go to the hardware store tomorrow for the correct nuts/bolts and a bolt for the battery hold down. It was challenging trying to figure out how to put everything in the door back together again (as I wasn't the one who took it apart) but it wasn't too bad. I only had one sequence error. The only thing that was left in that door was the wiring harness, before I started putting it back together.

FYI everyone - Rear door parts between a Gen II 4-door Explorer and a Sport Trac are identical.

Al, I'll let you know if I find the actuator.

Found it in the paper recycling bin... LOL

 

[koda2000]

Recap of Today's Progress:
Removed and tested blend door actuator. Motor and gears okay, but will not work from TEMP switch. I'm assuming some kind of internal circuit fault.

Received a box of used parts including, LR lock actuator, battery tray and hold down, LR window center bar w/nylon slides, mirror switch, misc window hardware, window regulator and a D/S lower door hinge. Installed everything except the lock actuator and door hinge. LR is window now working.

Tomorrow, go to hardware store for nuts/bolts, cut the grass, reinstall LR door latch with used actuator and button up the LR door. Oh, I found the new uninstalled #3 spark plug wire.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Well, my 3 year old grandson was helping me unpack and throw the newspaper away. I'll check through the recycling and see if it's in there, but I didn't notice it when I was pulling the paper out of the box.

I just finished up installing the LR window parts and it's now working. Hooray! No more 2x4 keeping the window closed. I have to go to the hardware store tomorrow for the correct nuts/bolts and a bolt for the battery hold down. It was challenging trying to figure out how to put everything in the door back together again (as I wasn't the one who took it apart) but it wasn't too bad. I only had one sequence error. The only thing that was left in that door was the wiring harness, before I started putting it back together.

FYI everyone - Rear door parts between a Gen II 4-door Explorer and a Sport Trac are identical.



Al, I'll let you know if I find the actuator.

Found it in the paper recycling bin... LOL

That's great! I was a little puzzled, I was sure I put it in there. I'm glad it all went together for you and the window is working. I looked up everything that I could and all the part numbers crossed, so I was pretty confident. I didn't hear back from you, did you want me to send the blend door actuator along with the lock actuator? Let me know.

 

[koda2000]

That's great! I was a little puzzled, I was sure I put it in there. I'm glad it all went together for you and the window is working. I looked up everything that I could and all the part numbers crossed, so I was pretty confident. I didn't hear back from you, did you want me to send the blend door actuator along with the lock actuator? Let me know.

RE the blend door actuator: I missed that. Is the one you have for the manual controls? Any chance you can test it? I don't understand how the TEMP switch works. All I know is it's some kind of resistor, but as power is hooked up directly to the actuator, and the actuator has a bunch of electrical "magic" inside of it, I'm not 100% it's the problem (only 99.5% sure). If it wasn't such a PITA to remove/install, I'd try the one from my '00 XLT. As I said earlier, the motor and gears work if I supply power an ground directly to the motor. Do you also have the TEMP switch just-in-case?

If you haven't removed/sent the RF lock actuator yet, can you please leave the bracket on it. It was a beeach trying to get my bracket on the LR. I ended up having to cut the rubber off (and stabbed myself with a screwdriver, twice).

BTW, Many thanks for your help with this project. You've gone over and above what I expected as far as checking part numbers, cleaning parts and packaging. Saving money wherever possible on this restoration really helps. As I write the book on this project, you certainly deserve an honorable mention.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Sure, I can try to test it. I'll trow a battery in and cycle through the temps and see what happens. If all works as it should I'll send the temp switch as well. I haven't pulled the RF actuator yet so I'll leave the bracket on it when I do. Today is the first day the sun has been out in a few days so I should be able to do all that today when I get home from work. And no problem, glad I'm able to help. Plenty of people here have helped me so I try to pay it forward whenever I can. I don't have unlimited funds either so I know what it's like! I bought the parts truck for the few things I needed so anything I get for the other parts is a bonus. I'll let you know how I do with the parts later today.

 

[koda2000]

Sure, I can try to test it. I'll trow a battery in and cycle through the temps and see what happens. If all works as it should I'll send the temp switch as well. I haven't pulled the RF actuator yet so I'll leave the bracket on it when I do. Today is the first day the sun has been out in a few days so I should be able to do all that today when I get home from work. And no problem, glad I'm able to help. Plenty of people here have helped me so I try to pay it forward whenever I can. I don't have unlimited funds either so I know what it's like! I bought the parts truck for the few things I needed so anything I get for the other parts is a bonus. I'll let you know how I do with the parts later today.

I was hoping to get the LR door buttoned up today, I just discovered I need a LR interior door handle too (I just replace the RR). It's not popped, like they usually display, but it doesn't work. Figures, everything else in that LR door was busted. Send me one if you have a good one. If not I'll order one from eBay. Front and rear LEFT are the same.

The problems just never seem to end with this truck.

Yes, I try to pay it forward when ever possible too.

Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

Todays Progress:
Went to the hardware store and got the nuts/bolts I needed to reattach the window regulator, lock linkage and actuator. Reinstalled the door latch and various rods. That took me longer that putting the window back in yesterday. I would have finished the LR door, but discovered the interior door handle is no good. Now it's time to go cut the grass. Then several beers are in order.

 

[koda2000]

Todays mission is to replace the driver's door lower hinge. Also, hopping my new master window switch arrives today. If all the windows work after the master switch replacement I can reinstall all the interior door panels.

 

[skpyle]

Good Luck!
Following with great interest...


Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

Good Luck!
Following with great interest...


Seth K. Pyle

Thanks for reading Seth.

Driver's Door Lower Hinge Replacement:
Relatively easy job. Removed the plastic cap from the barrel connector, unscrewed the 10mm bolt, which releases the wire connector. I had my daughter balance the drivers door, on a piece of 2x4 on top of a floor jack, while I removed the four 13mm hinge bolts and the door was off.

The lower hinge is held in place by a 13mm nut, which is accessed from behind the D/S kick-panel trim piece, and a 13mm bolt from the door jam. Ford (in their infinite wisdom) uses a bolt that is about 1/2" too long, so when you try to remove the bolt the head hits the edge of the front fender. I considered unbolting the fender for about 1 second, and then decided to just "adjust" the edge of the fender by bending the offending sheet metal out of the way using 2 ball peen hammers (it doesn't show). I only had to adjust the sheet metal about 1/4" to allow the bolt head to clear. I'll put a dab of paint on the sheet metal so it doesn't rust in the future.

I installed the replacement hinge and, again with my daughter's help, reinstalled the driver's door. Without touching the upper hinge adjustment, I was able to get door to be almost perfect. It's about 1/8" low at the latch before it latches, but once it closes it lines up perfectly. Before replacing the hinge it was almost a 1/2" low. The door gaps are good and it closes easily (no more slamming required). I may look into adjusting the top hinge at some point (I'm a bit of a perfectionist). There's little-to-no adjustment possible on the door bolt, so maybe by loosening the top hinge and jacking the rear of the door up a tweak, I can get it perfect. Good enough for now.

Another dirty job done dirt cheap.

That's it for today (unless FedEx delivers my master window switch) and I need to go pickup my grandson's birthday present (one of those redwood play sets). I'll let his father put that together (I don't do wood).