New Toy

[koda2000]

and we now have heat. check one more problem off the list.

 

[skpyle]

Most excellent job!
Transmission pan drain plug is an excellent idea. I've done it to all my vehicles over the years. I am surprised the 5R55E doesn't have a torque converter drain plug.

Go ahead and order the timing components now. You know you are going to need them.


Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

Most excellent job!
Transmission pan drain plug is an excellent idea. I've done it to all my vehicles over the years. I am surprised the 5R55E doesn't have a torque converter drain plug.

Go ahead and order the timing components now. You know you are going to need them.


Seth K. Pyle

I don't recall seeing a TC drain plug cover while I was under there, but then again I wasn't looking for one at the time. I know all my 5.0L's have the plug. At 184k, and very likely never receiving a service, I'm a little leery to change all the trans fluid (flush), but I've got to change at least 1/2 of it and get a new filter on it.

As far as installing a trans pan drain plug, I know why the manufactures say they don't put a drain plug in the trans pan, but it sure makes draining the fluid out a lot neater job and as far as I'm concerned makes me more likely to change the filter, rather than less likely.

 

[chefduane]

... I know why the manufactures say they don't put a drain plug in the trans pan..

I'd be interested in knowing that tidbit. What is their reasoning of not putting in a drain plug for the trans?

 

[koda2000]

I'd be interested in knowing that tidbit. What is their reasoning of not putting in a drain plug for the trans?

I've always heard that the reason they stopped putting a drain plug in the trans pan is so you (or your mechanic) have to remove the pan. That way you're more likely to change the filter. It also saves the manufacturers a buck I'm sure.

 

[koda2000]

Rear Differential Noise:
I took the ST over to a mechanic friend's shop yesterday to get his opinion on my rear diff noise. He's pretty sure it's coming from the spider gears, but says you can't be 100% sure until the cover's off.

I looked into a spider gear set and found a pretty good price for a US Gear set at RockAuto for $117 and the forum's 5% discount will pay for the shipping. I also looked on eBay and found a complete used 8.8, 4:10, 31 spline, Posi center chunk for about the same money. I was thinking maybe that would be an easier way to go, but my friend said that he's never installed a used rear end from another housing and not had it roar. He believes that this is because of not being able to duplicate the torque on the carrier bearing caps to match whatever it came out of. I trust this guy's opinion. He thinks I'd be better off marking my carrier bolts, and using a torque wrench to figure out exactly how tight each of the carrier bolts are before removing them, then putting them back exactly where and how tight they were. I hope to have the time (and ambition) to pull the cover and center section this week. I'll go from there.

Update:
Pulled the diff cover and found a few things that didn't make me happy.
1. Fluid level was quite low. I didn't measure it, but I'd estimate about a quart came out. Probably due to axle seals leaking. Didn't look like it had water in the diff fluid, but read on.
2. There is evidence that there was moister in the diff, as some of the ring gear teeth were rusty. I'm not sure if this will require replacement of the ring & pinion. The pinion gear looks fine. The wear pattern looked ok. As only some of the teeth were rusty this truck must have sat in one place for quite a while.
3. I think my mechanic friend may be right about the spider gears. They don't look too healthy (very worn and some teeth were pitted). I'll run them over to his shop tomorrow and see what he says.
4. The limited slip clutches were quite worn out on the passenger side. The driver side clutches were not too bad, but they come as a set to do both sides. I still thinking on whether it's worth replacing the clutches. It should work fine as an open diff if they slip.

Question: Is there a trick to removing/inserting the "S" spring in the posi unit? I had quite a time getting it out and I'm not sure how to reinstall it. I've seen posi clutches replaced on Power Nation TV, but I don't recall how they did it. Maybe I can find a youtube video. - Never mind. I found a video.

I just came back from the mailbox and my used cruise control switches arrived. They look like brand new. I'm very happy with them and can't wait to get them installed (and yes I know the trick on disconnecting the old ones from the wiring harness).

Update:
Used cruise control switches installed. Neither side lights up, which is better than having one side light up. While I'd prefer they both illuminated, I seldom drive at night anymore.

New spider gear set ordered along with axle seals. There's supposed to be an O-ring on the axle shaft where the C-clip goes. Not sure why, but I'm missing one, so off to Ford to try to find one tomorrow. Also need some LSD additive while I'm there.

 

[koda2000]

Today's Fun:
- Removed the fill-plug from the diff housing. That sucker was pretty stuck in there.
- Disassembled the right rear brake shoes and parts and cleaned everything
- Removed the leaking right axle seal
- Installed the new brake shoes. Probably the toughest regular brake shoes I've ever changed.
- Removed rear sway bar links. Ordered a Moog rear sway bar link bushing rebuild kit.

It was just too hot and humid to do the left side rear brakes today. Close to 100 degrees in the garage by 2:00. I plan to start on the left side early tomorrow morning, when its a bit cooler out. It's a dirty, dirty job. Rubber gloves a must.

I'm debating whether to replace the rear axle bearings. They look okay and are rather expensive for good quality replacements. Not really liking the condition of the left rear axle. I'll show it to my mechanic friend and see what he thinks. So far don't see any reason to remove the carrier as I'm pretty sure the noise was caused by the side gears. They look even worse after cleaning.

 

[skpyle]

Hello Koda2000, what kinds of problems did you have with the rear drum brakes? I am curious.

For what it is worth, I had my machinist/fab/race shop install a rebuilt Explorer Traction-Lok LSD in place of the open differential in my 1999 5.0 AWD Limited Explorer. No issues with torque of the carrier bolts.

Good Luck!

Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

Hello Koda2000, what kinds of problems did you have with the rear drum brakes? I am curious.

For what it is worth, I had my machinist/fab/race shop install a rebuilt Explorer Traction-Lok LSD in place of the open differential in my 1999 5.0 AWD Limited Explorer. No issues with torque of the carrier bolts.

Good Luck!

Seth K. Pyle

While the drum brakes on the ST are very similar in design to any drum style brake setup, there are more springs and little parts to deal with. My main problems were trying to get the shoe retainer springs engaged while trying to hold the shoe in place (had to have someone hold the shoe while I installed the retainer springs) and trying to get the return springs reinstalled without the shoe pulling away from the backing plate. I finally was able to hold the shoe against the backing place with one hand while I installed the return springs with the other hand. Not easy to do, plus the shoes wouldn't stay against the top pivot unless I installed the bottom adjuster and screw it way out. This was necessary to compensate for the parking brake spreader bar. Now that I've done one side, the other side would be easier to do, except it looks like I'll be pulling out the whole rear end.

Setting up a diff is a science. I've seen it done, but It's not something I'd be willing to try myself. Too much work and expense to chance screwing it up.

 

[koda2000]

Today's Discoveries:
So I've discovered that my rear diff is junk
- worn out axles
- leaking seals
- worn spider gears
- oil soaked, worn out brake shoes
- rusty, pitted ring gear, so needs a ring/pinion set
- worn out LSD clutch packs
- probably needs all new bearings

About the only part of my diff that's good is the housing. So I'll be locating a good used rear diff. This will push my anticipated total investment over the $2500 I originally hoped to spend "restoring" this truck, but there will still be some meat on the bone when I'm done should I decide to sell it. Oh well, I knew it was a gamble going into it and I've enjoyed fixing it up. Finding good used parts for the truck has saved me a lot of money so far (special thanks to albi1cnobi1). So now I get to pull the old diff out and find a replacement. It's really the only major disappointment I've found, so things could be much worse.

At least I don't have this poor guy's luck... see post #19

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430413

 

[koda2000]

Update:
The offending rear diff is out. Just like pulling a bad tooth...

 

[koda2000]

Update:
Used rear '01 ST diff ETA tomorrow according to shipper. Here's hoping it's the right one and in better shape than my old one. Fingers crossed. Other than some cleaning, I've been in a holding pattern. I did find a nice OE ST bed mat on eBay last weekend and picked it up for cheap. It hides the spills in the bed and makes it more useable, but I've discovered that paint stripper get's the mastic off pretty well w/out harming the plastic. It's a slow process though.

 

[koda2000]

Just picked up my new-used rear diff. It looks like the right one. I need to scrape the grease off it and take it apart to see how the gears look. While I'm at it I'll replace the axle seals. It's supposed to be a 4:10, but all the tags are missing so who knows until I count the teeth. They pulled the brakes and backing plates off (which is fine as I want to reuse mine) and they pull the rear cover to drain the fluid out for shipping, so I'm guessing that's where the tags went. I wouldn't hate it if it's a 3:73, but then I'd have to reprogram the PCM for the speedo to read correctly. I'm just praying this is a good unit.

Update:
Pulled the cover and it is a 4:10 posi, just like the original. The gears look really good (thank God) and the inside of the case looks nice and clean. The diff came from the Chicago area, so plenty of flaky rust to scrape off the outside before giving it a coat of chassis black. I got about 1/2 way through it this evening and found something I'll need to address. On the left side axle tube, right at the tip where the seal goes, there's a cut in the tube. I can't imagine how that could have happened. It's like someone took a sharp chisel and smacked it really hard. Once I get the axles out tomorrow I'll be able to see better, but I'm sure it will interfere with the seal. I'll need to figure out a way to repair this. It's always something.

 

[koda2000]

Update:
In the cold, clear light of day, I think the damage to the axle tube on the replacement diff is severe. I probably would not be able to install a seal and not have it leak. To remove the axle to get a better look, I also discovered that whoever removed the brake backing plates before shipping also stripped the head of the 8MM bolt that holds the pin in. Without removing the 8MM bolt the axles can not be removed. Due to the location of the bolt no tool (other than an 8mm box wrench or socket) can be used to remove the bolt. I'm not willing to spend much time on this as the axle tube damage probably can't be repaired. I just sent the seller an email with photos requesting an immediate replacement or a refund. Crap!

 

[skpyle]

}%*<€£^<€ )&&$@ <explicative, explicative>

Sorry, koda2000.

Hopefully the seller will make good on the damage.

Seth K. Pyle

 

[koda2000]

}%*<€£^<€ )&&$@ <explicative, explicative>

Sorry, koda2000.

Hopefully the seller will make good on the damage.

Seth K. Pyle

Yeah, this sucks. I'm trying to deal with the parts sourcing company that I bought the diff from. So far they've emailed me instructions on how to return the diff for a refund, but it says "the customer is responsible for return shipping costs". That would be fine if I had just decided I didn't want the part, but I'm returning it because it's damaged and unusable. A quote on return shipping was $278, so there's no way I'm going to pay that! I'm waiting for a supervisor to call me back. I also called my credit card company to ask how I can dispute the charge.

In the meantime, I crawled under my 2000 XLT 5.0 to look at a Gen II Explorer diff with disc brakes. The diff looks identical to the '01 ST drum brake diff, just extra parts bolted on that are specific to the disc brake setup. So I'm thinking that I could just buy a used non-ST diff and swap over my drum brakes. I've found several Explorer rear diffs on CL for around $150. They're 3:73's but they are posi, so that may be the way to go. I just need to verify that the axles are the same length. I'll check RockAuto for that.

Update: RA shows the axles are the same.

 

[koda2000]

Well, after 6 calls to the parts sourcing company, I finally got to speak to a supervisor. He approved my return and said that they would refund 100% my purchase price, but insisted that I had to pay the nearly $300 return shipping cost and that amount would not be refunded. He reasoned that they had to pay the shipping to sent it to me, so it was only fair that I had to pay for the return shipping. I told him that was a load of crap and that while the damage was not their fault, that's the cost of them doing business. Then I called my credit card company and they said that they would refund my money w/in 48 hours, that they would not charge me any interest and that they would get the seller to issue a shipping label, saying that if you purchase something and it arrives damaged, the return shipping is on the seller. So while I'll have to go through the hassle of getting the diff ready for return and bringing it somewhere the truck can pick it up (no 40 foot tractor trailer can get up my driveway) at least I'm not getting screwed out of $300.

My advice - NEVER BUY ANY USED PARTS FROM QUALITY AUTO PARTS! Quality... that's a joke.

Now I have to ressume my hunt (locally) for a used diff, but at least I've figured out I can use a diff out of any Gen II Explorer or Mountaineer and just swap the brake parts.

 

[OffTrac]

I have to wonder why they even want it back and don't just refund your total cost and call it a loss. They're going to resell that junk to a shop who won't care and will install it in someone's vehicle. The fact that they want it back tells me all I need to know about that company.

 

[koda2000]

I have to wonder why they even want it back and don't just refund your total cost and call it a loss. They're going to resell that junk to a shop who won't care and will install it in someone's vehicle. The fact that they want it back tells me all I need to know about that company.

They want it returned so they get their money back from the salvage yard. They're a middle man. but your right in that it's pretty much worthless other than scrap weight.

 

[OffTrac]

Ah, makes sense. Sucks that it became your problem though. Still watching this restoration.