Regearing

[Rhett]

Here's a chart I like, over at TRS:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/gearandtirechart.shtml

 

[cloaked_chaos]

That's all I got.. hopefully someone else will post up as I'll be regearing next time I need tires.. My issue is going from 4.10 to 4.88 or 5.13 AND I think I need to replace my Detroit in the rear.. It won't unlock & it has been in there for well over 200k miles.

~Mark

If you want to sell your detroit locker, hit me up. I've been having some issues with my Powertrax locker unlocking when it shouldn't.

 

[malohnes]

I'm shooting for Aussie's in the rear, like JD. Still not the fence for the front.
He seems very happy with his and I like the company profile so far.

 

[2stroke]

Looking through rock auto, they offer a complete rebuild kit for the Dana 35. Here is the link https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3903762&cc=1190708

They list "complete shim kit", and I was wondering if this would substitute for the install kit, but also come with the seals I need.

 

[2stroke]

I just picked up my rear axle today. Working 2nd shift is really nice for someone in their 20's BTW. I looked it over good. It came stock 4.10 gears with limited slip. I am doubting there is a locker in there, but I have not pulled the cover. Both hubs turn forward so the LS does work. Not too much rust on it. The rotors are rusty, but they seem usable, and the brake pads are almost new. Must have just had a brake job done before the truck was wrecked. It also has new hardline. I will probably replace all the axle seals, get new rubber brake lines, run the parking brake cable, and fill it up with fluid. The axle is pretty much ready to go. I also have to figure out how to mount springs and shocks. I'll need new U bolts, but I'll use my current leaf springs. The shock mounts look different, but I'll see about that. Then its just welding my perches on and bolting it all up.

I'll have to call rockauto about that kit. It sure would be nice if that master rebuild kit could suffice as an install kit with the seals I want anyway.

 

[malohnes]

I just picked up my rear axle today. Working 2nd shift is really nice for someone in their 20's BTW. I looked it over good. It came stock 4.10 gears with limited slip. I am doubting there is a locker in there, but I have not pulled the cover. Both hubs turn forward so the LS does work. Not too much rust on it. The rotors are rusty, but they seem usable, and the brake pads are almost new. Must have just had a brake job done before the truck was wrecked. It also has new hardline. I will probably replace all the axle seals, get new rubber brake lines, run the parking brake cable, and fill it up with fluid. The axle is pretty much ready to go. I also have to figure out how to mount springs and shocks. I'll need new U bolts, but I'll use my current leaf springs. The shock mounts look different, but I'll see about that. Then its just welding my perches on and bolting it all up.

I'll have to call rockauto about that kit. It sure would be nice if that master rebuild kit could suffice as an install kit with the seals I want anyway.

Nice buy! Surface rust isn't a problem, Scotchbrite pad and steel wool can do wonders.

 

[Rhett]

Where did you find your 4.10LS disc axle?

 

[2stroke]

Jerry's auto salvage in big Lake, mn

 

[2stroke]

I compared axles today with our 2000 explorer and I see what has to happen now. It looks to be near a perfect swap to an older explorer, but its different for a ranger. I knew I would need my perches as rangers are SOA. It also looks like the spring mounts for the explorers double as shock mounts. This means I need to transplant my shock mounts to the new axle. On top of that, the sway bars are totally different. I could run without it, but I prefer to have it. The shocks should be easy, but I'm guessing you have to be very accurate for the sway bars. The other thing is on explorers the axle is parallel to the ground. On my Mazda the axle is tilted up some to account for the driveshaft angle. Does anyone know the proper way? I'm thinking it should be slightly under inline with the driveshaft to account for some axle wrap. I see lots of careful grinding in my future.

For the brakes, that looks like the easy part. For simplicity, I think I'll reuse all my brake lines which are practically new. This means my divider block (for lack of a better term) will mount on top of the pumpkin and 2 equal lengths hardline will run to the rubber lines on each side which are connected to the calipers. The stock explorer setup has the block on the driver side, and is connected directly to the rubber brake line. The other side has a hardline that goes up and over to the other side. Either way would work with zero modifications. I'm not sure how the parking brake is going to go yet. I'll have to measure the cable and see how long it is. I'm sure I can rig something up.

This axle comes with an ABS sensor on top of the pumpkin. Since I have no ABS system, I was either going to just clip the wires flush, or maybe find a nice bolt to thread in there. I'll see about pulling the cover tomorrow. Its at least a month, probably 2 before I actually get around to working on this project. I just want as accurate a budget as possible to be prepared.

In the meantime, I should really get my K5 blazer going. I need something else to drive while the Mazda is in progress.

 

[malohnes]

I think you got it squared away.

The only item I'm not sure of is the pinion angle of the diff. I would match how it is stock no matter how the axle was from the donor. Im sure you'll get a proper answer from one of the more knowledgeable fellas here.

 

[2stroke]

I'm sure it will be a lot of guess and check. I've never transplanted an axle like this before, so this is new to me. I've got a pretty good plan, and time now.

For the parking brake, it looks like 2010 rangers came with disk brakes. Rock auto lists a whole cable for $13.

 

[jd4242]

Ill add..you can use two driveside(think drivers) explorer shock/leaf clamps,you spin one around and the shocks will mount..you also can use the 2nd gen explorer sway bar but need jeep end links to mount to frame..give me a min and ill find part numbers..

 

[jd4242]

moog k3174 with a 2nd gen explorer sway bar

You also can use belltech shackles for lift,then use the sua with two explorer shock/leaf mounts..lots of options

Using explorer mounts and stock rangrr shock mounts.dont know if a 2nd gen sway bar will clear after this though and honestly you dont need one in the rear unless its a performance truck,most rangers dont come with one or a b2 sway bar could work and is thicker

 

[2stroke]

Its not a performance truck by any means, but I do tow a lot. Any stability I can get in the rear I will take. I thought about a bunch of options, but I have a perfectly good (setup) axle, I have ranger leaf springs, and I have brand new shocks. I would need new shocks for the explorer setup. While it will be a lot of grinding, measuring and welding, I think the best way for me is to put my mounts on this new axle. I'm thinking I should be able to set up the axle without the sway bars, and mount it up to see where I need to weld the sway bar mounts.

Your picture reminds me of something I was thinking of trying. That was to pull a diff cover from an 8.8 IFS rear in a junk yard and hacking the wings off. There's plenty of info on how to modify it online, but what nobody ever says is how hard it is to pull the cover from the junk yard. First of all I like the looks, and second I would really like having a drain plug.

 

[jd4242]

Yea welding them on will give you best results if you have the tools,i just skimmed through all the post so was just throwing options out..one thing i ALWAYS suggest when doing a disc swap is to change the master out to a 95 explorer with no options,no abs,no cruise and no proportion valve..its setup for 4 wheel disc brakes and cost like $30 from advance,also gives you a chance to change ALL the fluid out which i feel is VERY important..

Im assuming your current axle has a sway bar??which direction does it go?i personally havent seen a ranger with a stock bar so idk.i know the B2 bar bolts onto the axle using uclamps and is thicker,most add this to a ranger setup,i chose the 2nd gen bar because i put both my shocks facing forward because of my b2 tank swap and the sway bar mounts were already on the axle.

I too have seen the ifs cover swap but like you havent seen how hard it was to remove,couldnt be that hard though. .

 

[Rhett]

change the master out to a 95 explorer with no options,no abs,no cruise and no proportion valve..its setup for 4 wheel disc brakes

I remember some thread detailing this... but I'm not sure...
Using a 95 base Explorer master cyl will NOT affect the 1st gen's existing ABS setup?

In other words, I could keep my ABS (which on my 94 is front and rear abs) if i did go to a 95 master cyl.

 

[jd4242]

I remember some thread detailing this... but I'm not sure...
Using a 95 base Explorer master cyl will NOT affect the 1st gen's existing ABS setup?

In other words, I could keep my ABS (which on my 94 is front and rear abs) if i did go to a 95 master cyl.

As far as i know this is only for rear abs vehicles. .your 94 should have a 4wheel abs module (cant remember name) and is very touchy..i dont have info on that,sorry.

Does your mc only have two lines coming out?no plugs or anything?? Also idk if the proportion valve is built into yours..there should be a 95 option that would work though, bet it has the proportion valve built in tho

 

[2stroke]

I have read to switch the MC, and I have also seen a few guys who had no issues after the swap. I figured I'd try it first with the one I have. I'll have a good look at my rear sway bar. My guess is it is very similar to the 1st gen explorers if it isn't exactly the same. It wraps around the front rather than the back like 2nd gens. I bleed my brakes every year to get fresh fluid in. I just did it a couple months ago, so that's a non-issue.

 

[malohnes]

My brakes where much better after I swapped in the 95 MC following my rear disc install. They did work before the swap, but the rears weren't balanced to the fronts and on slippery roads it wasn't very predictable this way. I wouldn't say its a must, but for proper brake feel and performance it ought to be done. Its inexpensive and easy to do..

 

[jd4242]

Its said that running your stock one lets the backs drag every so slightly and balance is off.i have done 3 of these swaps and used the 95 each time and never had a issue. Brakes are one of the things i take very serious as well as steering,neither one would i cut corners on especially if its cheap to ensure my safety. .

Also those that say to adjust the pushrod and use the stock MC,dont know what they are talking about..please dont try that..