Value Of Radio?

[Drg racr]

I have an original AM/FM/Cassette/CD stereo and a 6-disc changer, all out of a '99 Ex. Any idea what its worth? It works good, display good. I still have the truck so I could pull the harness for the CD changer if need be. I was gonna use it in my daughter's XLS, but she likes the aftermarket CD player in it now.

 

[koda2000]

The radio's probably not a MACH if the display works, so it's worth maybe $50-$75, IDK about the CD changer, maybe $40 to someone who wants one. Did the truck it came out of have the factory Amp/sub woofer?

 

[CDW6212R]

If it's the Mach or Premium radio, which have an "RDS" button on them instead of a "CLOCK" button, it's harder to place a value. As said, those have a display defect that eventually causes the display to fail, and show nothing. It's rare to read of people asking about repairing them so it may be harder to get them fixed, or tougher to find a service source.

I have one working, and I'd like to have a spare. So I could use another Mach radio, which is the one that has no bass in it, the truck had a sub woofer in back.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

yeah, I have 2 mach radios and 2 CD changers and the I have 3, 6 CD cassettes with it, on Craig's list and I only want 20 for all of them, of course the displays don't work and I never used the CD or the cassette so it is a crap-shoot for whom ever buys them, and they have not sold as of yet. I don't think there are many people looking for those.
Robert

 

[Drg racr]

It does have a sub in the right rear and I think I saw the RDS button on the radio. But, if it's not worth much I won't worry about it.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

If it has the RDS button, it's a Mach radio, the screens are what get these though, and if the repair hasn't been done, eventually it'll happen to lose the screen, the one in my 01 I got out the JY to have a OEM radio, it's intermittent, slowly getting worse

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Yeah I had ordered a new board for my mach radio on eBay and it worked for about a month solid then started to go off and on, so the aftermarket boards were not made well enough to keep it going as long as the originals did. I want to say it was doorman product but I could be wrong.
Robert

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah I had ordered a new board for my mach radio on eBay and it worked for about a month solid then started to go off and on, so the aftermarket boards were not made well enough to keep it going as long as the originals did. I want to say it was doorman product but I could be wrong.
Robert

Some have used the Dorman board and said it worked, and others say it doesn't. I have one not installed yet, I got it from Amazon last year to fix one I got from the JY.

 

[koda2000]

Some have used the Dorman board and said it worked, and others say it doesn't. I have one not installed yet, I got it from Amazon last year to fix one I got from the JY.

The Dorman board does not work in the Mach radio'w with the 6 disc CD changer. I tried 2 boards in 2 different radios and no display. I then called Dorman tech support and they confirmed that their replacement board will not work in the Mach's w/6 disc CD changers. The Dorman board appears identical and fits/plugs-in just like the OE board, the radio plays, but you get no display. My '01 Mach w/6 CD changer was repaired/modified by fixmyradio.com over 5 years ago and the display still works fine. Cost was $99. IIRC they will sell you directions on how to fix/modify it yourself for $20.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

That doorman board did work in mine albeit not long but long enough to set the radio stations and take a trip to Florida and back. But koda is right they obviously were not made for the unit as they overheat and spoil very quickly. That fix for 20 bucks was to solder a new resister in there and raise it off the board as high as the new resister would let you, (don't cut off the excess length), at least that was one of the fixes that I have read. I have also read about soldering risers on each leg of the resister to dissipate the heat quicker.
Robert

 

[koda2000]

That doorman board did work in mine albeit not long but long enough to set the radio stations and take a trip to Florida and back. But koda is right they obviously were not made for the unit as they overheat and spoil very quickly. That fix for 20 bucks was to solder a new resister in there and raise it off the board as high as the new resister would let you, (don't cut off the excess length), at least that was one of the fixes that I have read. I have also read about soldering risers on each leg of the resister to dissipate the heat quicker.
Robert

You are correct about the fix.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

I actually have 3 mach radios as I was keeping one for me, (just in case), think I will fix it just to see if it works as described including the risers. I'll go to radio shack or just order online, can't imagine those being more then 35-40 cents apiece unless I have t buy in bulk then the cost would go down. Got nothing to lose. I won't give it a dead line as I absolutely have to get the air/heat thing working first.
Robert

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Here is some pictures of mine after the hydro-graphics water printing process on my sport. First one my rear heat controls.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Rear side

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Message center and Tissue dispenser

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Instrument cluster

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Door control piece

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Radio trim

 

[koda2000]

That looks really good. How to you prevent the film from going where you don't want it (like inside the cup holders). I've seen this process done on TV. I understand how it works, but it looks like quite a bit of skill is involved. Did you do this at home or did you take it to someone to have it done?

 

[1998Exp]

...
That fix for 20 bucks was to solder a new resister in there and raise it off the board as high as the new resister would let you, (don't cut off the excess length), at least that was one of the fixes that I have read. I have also read about soldering risers on each leg of the resister to dissipate the heat quicker.
Robert

The 'fix' is indeed mounting the two hot power resistors off the board, to prevent the board itself from overheating. It's a kludge, but it works, and that's what the revised version of this board did. The problem is that these two resistors are the culprit, but not the reason that the board stopped working. It stopped working because other components were damaged by the heat - perhaps just desoldered, but could have been worse. So if the board doesn't work, it's too late just to remount these two offenders. What I did about 10 years ago was to purchase a replacement board from Pioneer for about $100. Came as a part of a three-board kit. Don't know if they still have those.