I've just about completed this, waiting now on delivery of the "B" hardware from David. Many thanks and thumbs up for helping out with this, David!!
So here is what I've learned to make this project a bit easier for those that need to do it. My suggestion is to leave the "A" bushing intact and replace only the "B", "C", and "D" bushings
Get a 12 x 1.75 tap and die, Aerokroil penetrating spray, 15 mm 6 point impact socket, and an 18 mm deep well 6 point impact socket. You will also need at least 15" of extension to access the "A" bushing nut from above.
Spay all threaded connections with the Aerokroil. Use the die to chase the rusted threads on the stud coming up through the radiator support for the "A" bushing.
While holding the bolt head underneath of the "A" bushing with the 15 mm socket, unthread the nut from above with the 18 mm socket. I found that my Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar nestled perfectly in the jack support ear to prevent rotation of the bolt. This relieves the connection and allows the body to pivot so you can replace the other bushings.
From inside the vehicle, use the 18 mm socket to remove the bolts. Only do one side at a time, you need to maintain alignment of the body on the frame with the bolts made up on the other side. It is a good idea to loosen all of the bolts before you remove all of the bolts on one side. You may need to heat up the bottom spool piece. After removing the bolts, spay the annular section of the two mating spool pieces with Aerokroil, you will likely have rust there seizing them together.
A piece of 1/2" conduit is perfect for hammering out the bottom spool. Heat and a big hammer may be needed.
Once the spool pieces and bolts are out, chase the threads with the tap and die. This will make reassembly much easier.
Reassemble one side at a time, torque and loctite as suggested in the Prothane instructions.
This video was a big help in understanding how these are installed:
