NM

[98Hooptie]

N/M

 

[joshuaj0214]

Is it 4wd or 2? If its 4wd, I'd run it in 4 Hi so traction isn't a concern and it will launch hard

 

[donalds]

Perhaps @4pointslow can shine some light on this subject

 

[410Fortune]

I don't think hes 4wd/control trac not with 28psi and 42 psi
Please tell me you guys get rid of the sport mono leaf setup for this?

Thanks for sharing, very cool!!

 

[410Fortune]

Good idea to get some traction bars in there as that mono leaf setup will allow quite a bit of axle wrap up
The 5.0 Explorers have traction bars from the factory that fit a sport quite nicely, just have to weld some tabs to your rear axle

good luck today!!!!!!!!

 

[4pointslow]

I just found a notification on this thread so sorry for the late response.
Original poster must have deleted his thread starting post too. ?
For the record I am using the control trac transfercase and that is one of my secrets to launching.(though its really not a secret)
On this automatic 4wd system when placed in auto, if you mash the pedal to the floor the GEM module sends 100% duty cycle to the front drive shaft locking it in for the launch. As you get going faster the GEM module cuts the duty cycle back so there isn't any axle binding.

Only twice in the more than 10 years I have owned it, I have lost a driveshaft speed sensor on that transfercase.
There is no warning when it happens, no light on. The 4wd just doesn't work.
When that happens the 4wd is disabled and I can not launch the truck, it just rips the tires up with a smokey hairy burnout!
Problem with that is there is whats called shear friction happening on the clutch in the T-case and can ruin the clutch disks that look like automatic transmission ones. So if I wanted to do burnouts, I would have to remove my front driveshaft and lock the tcase in 4wd. That would allow me to get those rear tires burning, and prevent the T-case clutches from getting fried.

So when one of the T-case speed sensors goes bad it shorts out causing the hall effect speed sensor voltage to drop in the GEM module. That's how I discovered what was going wrong. If you unpin the wires for one sensor and the hallpower pid in the GEM module shows it comes back (in scan tool) then you know you just unplugged the bad sensor. The time I lost the second sensor, it wasted my day at the race track so I installed a voltmeter in my center console to monitor the Hallpower voltage from the GEM module to the T-case speed sensor. So I watch it when I go racing and if it ever drops to 0 volts I know not to waste my time trying to launch.

As far as the leaf springs go, I had mono leafs. switched to 4 door explorer leafs (4 leaf), broke them and went back to mono leafs with Calvert Racing Traction bars. Now instead of squating when launching, I can keep the truck pretty even which helps keep the front wheels down for more traction and acceleration.

Old picture. I have sprayed some black primer around since then, and put shorter levers on the traction bars with no lower hole.

 

[donalds]

I just found a notification on this thread so sorry for the late response.
Original poster must have deleted his thread starting post too. ?
For the record I am using the control trac transfercase and that is one of my secrets to launching.(though its really not a secret)
On this automatic 4wd system when placed in auto, if you mash the pedal to the floor the GEM module sends 100% duty cycle to the front drive shaft locking it in for the launch. As you get going faster the GEM module cuts the duty cycle back so there isn't any axle binding.

Only twice in the more than 10 years I have owned it, I have lost a driveshaft speed sensor on that transfercase.
There is no warning when it happens, no light on. The 4wd just doesn't work.
When that happens the 4wd is disabled and I can not launch the truck, it just rips the tires up with a smokey hairy burnout!
Problem with that is there is whats called shear friction happening on the clutch in the T-case and can ruin the clutch disks that look like automatic transmission ones. So if I wanted to do burnouts, I would have to remove my front driveshaft and lock the tcase in 4wd. That would allow me to get those rear tires burning, and prevent the T-case clutches from getting fried.

So when one of the T-case speed sensors goes bad it shorts out causing the hall effect speed sensor voltage to drop in the GEM module. That's how I discovered what was going wrong. If you unpin the wires for one sensor and the hallpower pid in the GEM module shows it comes back (in scan tool) then you know you just unplugged the bad sensor. The time I lost the second sensor, it wasted my day at the race track so I installed a voltmeter in my center console to monitor the Hallpower voltage from the GEM module to the T-case speed sensor. So I watch it when I go racing and if it ever drops to 0 volts I know not to waste my time trying to launch.

As far as the leaf springs go, I had mono leafs. switched to 4 door explorer leafs (4 leaf), broke them and went back to mono leafs with Calvert Racing Traction bars. Now instead of squating when launching, I can keep the truck pretty even which helps keep the front wheels down for more traction and acceleration.

View attachment 317063
Old picture. I have sprayed some black primer around since then, and put shorter levers on the traction bars with no lower hole.
View attachment 317065

Loving your recent YouTube videos keep it up