What vacuum line is this?

[rigbyrigz]

Concentrate more on basic issues. Stop worrying about the PCM relearning, that is extremely minor with these old computers. Only unplug them when you have to, not to erase anything, do that as a last resort or step. Skip the concept of limp mode with these PCM, they really don't have that from what I've seen. If it's running very badly, it is not due to the PCM relearning, or limp mode, it's an actual bad part, sensor, plugs/wires, or a wiring issue etc. I'd bet on wiring, a bad connection somewhere that affects many things, and thus generates multiple error codes. Unplug the main engine connector at the rear area of the bay, look at both sides and clean if any corrosion is seen, but put it back snugly. Check the bolt when you first loosen it, is it loose at all now?

Sounds good, Thanks, will do!
Edit:
Argh, sorry, been thinking in bed - planning tomorrow's agenda, about what you said (to check.) Good idea, of course, and will (have helper) do, and certainly wires (reported loose or faulty wire harnesses too) might generate this multitude of codes...

...is the same logic thought to be possibly responsible for all the hesitating, stuttering, intermittent (but somewhat minor or fleeting) lurching and power acceleration drops as well? I hope yes, and will avoid the reLearning/MAF topic, but wondering about the misfirings I had one day also being a clue: Maybe I should also focus on getting another set of 8 plugs and wires?

 

[1998Exp]

Seems you have a lot more than a single problem, but just one comment: if you saw sparks flying from an ignition wire, it's not because it was next to the intake manifold, but because it has damaged insulation. Even though you moved it away from the nearest metal, i's probably still causing a misfire. I would start by replacing that wire, and -- if you can afford it - replacing all of them with high quality, heat-resistant ones. Silicone wires are best.

 

[CDW6212R]

Having unexpected old plugs and wires have been an issues many times for others. We forget now how old these items are, because 25+ years ago OEM began telling us plugs were good for 100k miles. Now it's common to find cars with 150k miles on plugs, because some people forgot about them. Plugs used to be replaced at 25k for low end plugs, and 50k was a lot for any plugs before. I'd remove a few and see what the gaps are.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Thanks to Google I didn't have to ask here and reveal more of my ignorance. And Thanks, The Helper suggested new plugs and wires x 8 and I was 50-50 and will now be 100% in favor and do that. (Since there have been apparent episodes of anti-freeze slightly spraying about - until zipped off - and we suspect some trans fluid similarly - yeah that could mean Other Problems - but the possibility that some wires, sensors, or components got a little unwanted bath is Real...(suggesting replacement with clean = Good).

Thanks all!

 

[EB4X]

You mentioned most of these problems happened after Walmart changed your air filter, and O2 codes followed which MAF issues could create....therefore make sure the air filter they put in is properly seated, long shot I know, but unfiltered air can quickly damage/ cause issues with your MAF. Also, they might of inadvertently damaged the wiring harness going to the MAF when they removed all that to install new air filter -- maybe start vehicle and have someone move MAF wiring to see if engine starts to sputter or it activates CIL to come on while doing this. Maybe your MAF swapping etc put wiring back in "sweet spot" last time around hence most issues resolved at that point even though just reinstalling old MAF.
Clearly that plug wire was one main issue but since your still having some others check into this.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Thanks EB4X - others too. Going to have (helper) main engine connector, wire harness, air filter checked more.

On helper's representation that a set of spark n wires x 8 would be $25-30 I decided to forge ahead, starting with original model specs (AWSF-32EE)... figured might be more like $50-60 which I'm OK with...

...wasn't finding those (apparently since 2003, here in this forum, folks were discussing that difficulty, and also the issues with replacements... double platinum, etc: ->

Using the usual retail sources, even with discount, was now looking at closer to $200 than $20 for 8 x double-platinum and a wiring set. I suppose OEM 3rd party sources might get me down to $100 or so... am wondering now what jailed mechanic nephew put into the SUV last summer, 8 new plugs n wires, may have helper take one or more out to see, and examine gaps (which is just another complication in the Never-Ending Tale, haha. Sorry, been a long month. Thanks.)

Oh for anyone following the saga, we limped into a parking lot yesterday, and helper had his drill and we had the original MAF first replaced a month ago (was on nbr 3 genuine OEM) so he disconnected battery then installed the old MAF and the trip home wasn't half bad. A short trip today was also smooth (although DID Get P0171 P0174 on the way). Makes no sense, I guess thats why loose connections gaps wiring makes great sense to check as all the good guys here advise, thanks.

 

[CDW6212R]

You don't need to buy the most expensive plugs, single platinum from several good brands will work fine. Plug wires you should just avoid the cheapest brands, higher ones will be $80ish for those, Ford, Taylor etc, but some decent brands can be closer to $50 or less.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Hi. Waiting on my spark plugs (Denso double platinum 5070) & Taylor Thunder-8mm ignition wire set...got both for under $100 total.) Since I did have P0308 (again last week, mixed in with P0171 P0174) cylinder-8 misfire? and for other reasons I am hopeful this replacement will help...

...meanwhile, I was due for an oil change, so took it to my favorite (well, only) Walmart Auto. I said Hey since you'all replaced air filter last oil change been having MAF problems etc can you check the fit, wire harness, etc. please...

5 minutes in the guy says hey I think I found your MAF ( i'm on my third MAF this year) issue: the clamp near the MAF is missing and it was far from snug... a tiny tug and a gap appears, so maybe an (intermittent) air leak?

Other end does have a clamp. This could be best news of the month!

I think this is called an air intake tube, although may be other names. Not exactly finding it in parts catalogs or diagrams (or the separate clamp for it that I lack) so wondering if some all purpose hose clamp (part nbr =?) will suffice. Or maybe electrical tape, a whole intake tube, chewing gum... ideas always welcome THANKS!

 

[EB4X]

Yes....unmetered air getting into your system (air getting into system AFTER your MAF--in this case RIGHT after it! ) -- which is happening with no clamp there will cause idling / accelerating issues as your PCM / oxygen sensors etc try to smooth things out so to speak.... A regular hose clamp will damage those rubber nubs sticking up around where the special clamp goes...so for now, until you get the proper one, put two SKINNY long zip ties around it.....one on each side of the nubs...and report back how it's running THEN.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, that's a big issue to have any air leak in the inlet hose path, after the MAF. I also would put on a couple of long zip ties to hold it tight. That will work as well as a clamp, but you want to find a proper clamp which is very easy to loosen to remove the hose as needed. I'd look for a stock hose, which have the two clamps attached to them. The clamps don't ever need to come off, just barely loosened as needed.

 

[rigbyrigz]

While some call that ringlike thing (and thanks for the photo) an end-bracket, it really does seem to be an Air intake system CLAMP. Some additional research has not revealed IF the ringlike clamp can be taken off a used or junked fitting air intake hose/tube (or purchased separately for my model) and then inserted into the grooved area where missing...

...and if yes, if clamps for/from other air intake hose fitments (as you suggest: Stock hose) would also work (that they are somewhat Universal).

The option to buy a complete air hose assembly or tube, complete with clamps, also is considered. Somehow though, as Ford stopped making them and eBay holders have jacked up the prices (maybe $1500 though more like $150-300) this is a bit yukky as Plan B.

But I don't even know if these clamps are definitely removable (from one hose/tube to another?) While there are some exceptions, they don't generally sell these clamps separately it seems.

Thanks all.

PS I guess for $8.95 it's worth trying something like this, hmmn:

UPD: Oh at least the fitting Cold Air Intake is 3.5" so 4" isn't gonna be good...

 

[rigbyrigz]

Or are they adjustable, or am I asking for trouble with something like this?

 

[rigbyrigz]

Surely the tube doesn't fit, but OH the clamps?

 

[CDW6212R]

Skip all aftermarket stuff that doesn't fit right. Find the correct stock air inlet hose, which has the clamps on it. Don't pay too much, the hose should only be $15-$25 used. If nothing turns up priced well, don't buy something that costs too much. Stick with the cheap and common zip ties until you find a proper OEM inlet hose later.

That hose is an inlet hose, it runs between the air cleaner/MAF and the throttle body. It is not a cold air intake, that's a bad name for a normal common, made for ever in all cars since an air filter was first used, device. CAI is a fancy name by aftermarket companies to talk you into buying something. Call it what it is, always was, and always will be, an air cleaner(an air cleaner has the air filter inside of it).

 

[EB4X]

What's the update with the temporary zip tie/ makeshift setup? Is it NOW running a lot smoother ...and consistently?

 

[rigbyrigz]

What's the update with the temporary zip tie/ makeshift setup? Is it NOW running a lot smoother ...and consistently?

My "helper" (who didn't notice the loose air inlet hose and missing "clamp") is much younger and mechanic-savvy than me; he used a zipTie to mend some splashing light spray of anitFreeze some weeks back (one reason my ignition wires may indeed be suspect and will be replaced shortly.)

He was away I showed him the issue (when I picked him up), and he said he would do the zipTie thing. I confess I have no idea how to do that. He also said (as another neighbor did) they thought my (jailed) mechanic nephew had an extra clamp in the makeshift shop, but neither found it yet. I'm still doing the due diligence on finding a suitable part, new or used, complete tube or fitting (4" ?) clamp, to buy. They do indeed sell some separate hose clamps that look feasible, but hard to find the right match, or used part, and no one has yet confirmed that a clamp taken off a used inlet tube (or even purchased separately on eBay/Amazon,) can easily be put on snugly to fit where it's now missing.

Meanwhile, for a few drives, every vehicle trip I first go to the MAF and push the sleeve end up close and tight. and it seems to stay for the MUCH SMOOTHER trips so far x 3. I did get 2 codes (only P0174, not any P0171) and I'm thinking they may be old news and "pending" that finally popped up. Oh, I upgraded my scanner, arrived today a C-reader 3001 OBDII scanner does Live Data such as short & long trims; may report that tomorrow as well as the ZipTie progress.

THANKS! ...and oh so nice to smooth out the recent drives!!

 

[rigbyrigz]

Sorry to be an itch... but... anybody... so something like this 3.5" FITTING 2000MMV8 clamp (sorry, mistyped 4" last post) cannot simply (easily?) be slipped onto the the top end of the hose that is missing a clamp? (to ensure a snugger fit?)

Thanks!

for:

 

[rigbyrigz]

Ahh, so you didn't mean the zipTies on the WonderBread bag type, lol:

Ran some live data while idling with a slightly upgraded OBDII scanner... saw shrt n long 1 & 2 Fuel Trims running 17% ( i think over 10% is bad bad and will result in P0174s and more)... maybe a drive will change that and we will see (now that the ZipTie is on snug.) saw 99.2% on ShrtF LngTr 11 & 22 which i read is normal for that... Saw IAT go from 29 to 32 to 38 celsius while idling and revving a bit of rpm 1100.

The MAF metric value is running 7g or so, sometimes a wee bit lower or higher. But we still have the OLD OLD MAF on, may try the newest one again after the spark plugs and ingnition wires are replaced early next week. I think it's supposed to run about 9g altho might be just the models I saw worked on online YT. Will rerun the tests then too.

Thanks, will report more as develops. Still looking for an intake tube WITH clamp/s (or definitve word on acquiring a separate3.5" clamp and inserting it over the grooved end where missing one now.)

 

[rigbyrigz]

ok getting close!

 

[rigbyrigz]

Just had my inaugural zipTied drive... 30 minutes. Woohooo.. smooth as a baby's report card, even 50 to 60!