Dsc
Member
- Joined
- April 18, 2021
- Messages
- 15
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- Cambridge ON
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2007 Sport Trac XLT 4.0
One owner 07 Sport Trac with 95k miles.
Background, went for a 50 mile round trip. Truck had not shown any prior drivability issues. During the trip the engine hesitated about five times, lost power but when throttle given revs increased back to normal. A few miles from home after accelerating from a stop, truck lost power and would not respond to giving it gas. It did not stall but went into limp mode, after about two minutes power return and the Wrench MIL appeared. Got the truck home and pulled out the OBD reader, it showed the P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance and no other code.
I went out the next morning and truck started as normal and MIL went out. Shut the truck down and tried to restart, would not fire the first three times and started on the fourth. Took the truck for a short drive with no issues and came back home.
Ordered a new fuel filter, as mine was overdue for change. During replacement I cut off the ends of the old one to create a tee for my fuel pressure gage. This is where things get interesting. Installed the pressure gage without the fuel filter and put it in key on/engine off to see the fuel pressure. I could hear the pump prime but it was louder than normal, readings were sporadic. Started the truck and reading was 20psi, then jumped to 30psi (spec is 30 to 40 psi in both key on and run mode).
At this point I was a little baffled and assumed I had a fuel pump going bad. I replaced the fuel filter, started it and backed it out of the garage. After shutdown, I could not get it to start again. No pump priming could be heard so I assumed the fuel pump was done.
There are a few threads on fuel pump replacement and dropping the fuel tank, but here is my advice.
1) Have a good jack and floor stands to support the vehicle, since you need to get under it.
2) I found it impossible to siphon this ST tank. Best is a five gallon bucket. Remove the filler hose at the tank and gently push a screwdriver in to open the anti-splash valve. To stop flow just pull the screwdriver back.
3) Remove the plastic skid plate, two M10x1.25 bolts on side of the frame rail, one underside at back and two nuts on the inside near the driveshaft. You will need to remove the L support, to gain access to the rear tank strap bolt. Remove the plate in front of the fuel filter and disconnect the fuel line at filter outlet (white clip, squeeze together ends and push in to release). You can leave the fuel filter in place during the tank drop so you don't need to struggle with the red clip on the inlet to the filter.hi
4) Tank is held in with two straps, front has a M10 nut (15 mm head) and rear is a bolt of the same size. But before you do this have a board 20x20 inches and if possible a 1x3 attached to the edge which will help the tank from moving around once free. This size will fit nicely between the two strap locations. You need to ensure the board is fastened to your jack securely. The tank is not heavy when drained but bulky and it wants to move rearward and toward the center of the vehicle. A bungee cord will also help once the tank is free.
5) With the cradle in place, you can remove the fasteners for the straps. If the hardware is rusty and needs cut, the rear is just a spring nut and bolt, the front is a stud and nut. A 3/8" carriage bolt will easily replace the stud and fit in the frame slot, if needed. Remove the straps which hook into the side of frame rail. You do not have to remove the driveshaft, but need to pull the rear strap past it, to remove.
6) At this point the tank is free, but only lower it a inch or two, so you can disconnect the EVAP hose in the rear at the valve (slip on), the vent line (white clip, push in to release). At front there is another vent line (blue clip, push in to release). Now lower the tank another few inches and you can disconnect the fuel pump electrical connecter, which is near the frame rail at the pump location. It will probably be out of site, so you will need to feel for it.
7) Tank is ready for removal and it needs to move rearward about four inches to clear the front cross member. Then it can be lowered clear and the bungee helps with it not sliding around.
At this point you can test the fuel pump without removing it from the tank. The electrical connector has two rows of pins, four on top and three on bottom. If you apply 12vdc to the center two pins on the top row of four, the pump will or will not run. If it runs you can attach your pressure gage to the filter outlet to see the pressure.
I did not do this because I did not know, until I disassembled the pump how it could be checked. If I had I would have found out the pump was good, but I had already ordered a new Motorcraft replacement.
So after replacing the pump, pump retainer ring, o ring and new filter, I reinstalled the tank. Went to put the key in the on position and nothing...no priming or line pressure.
On to the next component which is the Fuel Pump Driver Module. This is hard to see but is bolted to a bracket above the rear frame cross member. The spare tire need to be removed and you can follow the wiring to it. It is in a pretty difficult location and you need to work somewhat blind. The electrical connect released pretty easily and you have two M6x1.0 (8mm heads) to remove. Be sure to have a good socket and bite before attempting to remove. If you strip the head it will be very difficult to get into that area to cut or grind the heads off.
Below is a couple of pictures of what I found....not good. It is a common failure on F150s, but i didn't know this until I did more digging.
So, new FPDM ordered. It appears that Ford no longer sells this module for the Explorer, so I went with the Dorman aftermarket. Part looked good but it was a struggle to install.
The part bolts in fine but when I plugged in the connector, it would not seat. When I went to pull the plug back out the plug separated into the white plastic part and the terminals/outer connector part. I removed the module and was able to pull the white plastic part out of it without damage and clip back into the connector. I then tried to seat the connector without the module installed. I thought this worked because the electrical connector clicked. However still no priming in the key on position.
I checked all the relays, fuses and inertia switch for power and all was good. Went back to the FPDM and had to put the ends of the connector against the frame rail and push the module on to the connector. I am guessing the socket on the Dorman part is somewhat smaller than the original Ford part. Once I did this, I had the pump prime and fuel pressure.
So, the FPDM was the problem. But if I have to ever replace it, I will need to destroy it to release the electrical plug.
I have to add this failure is very scary. I was on backroads mainly when the problem happened, but if this happened merging onto a highway or at speed to lose power, it could be much worse. I hope this helps someone because is I couldn't find much on it when it comes to the Sport Trac.
I just want to add, if you are testing the pump in the tank you need to add a gallon or two of fuel into the tank if it was emptied. The pump can't be sucking air or it will not give you an accurate reading, in fact it will give like 1psi reading. When I did this on the bench I used water, since I wasn't going to be reusing the pump.
Background, went for a 50 mile round trip. Truck had not shown any prior drivability issues. During the trip the engine hesitated about five times, lost power but when throttle given revs increased back to normal. A few miles from home after accelerating from a stop, truck lost power and would not respond to giving it gas. It did not stall but went into limp mode, after about two minutes power return and the Wrench MIL appeared. Got the truck home and pulled out the OBD reader, it showed the P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance and no other code.
I went out the next morning and truck started as normal and MIL went out. Shut the truck down and tried to restart, would not fire the first three times and started on the fourth. Took the truck for a short drive with no issues and came back home.
Ordered a new fuel filter, as mine was overdue for change. During replacement I cut off the ends of the old one to create a tee for my fuel pressure gage. This is where things get interesting. Installed the pressure gage without the fuel filter and put it in key on/engine off to see the fuel pressure. I could hear the pump prime but it was louder than normal, readings were sporadic. Started the truck and reading was 20psi, then jumped to 30psi (spec is 30 to 40 psi in both key on and run mode).
At this point I was a little baffled and assumed I had a fuel pump going bad. I replaced the fuel filter, started it and backed it out of the garage. After shutdown, I could not get it to start again. No pump priming could be heard so I assumed the fuel pump was done.
There are a few threads on fuel pump replacement and dropping the fuel tank, but here is my advice.
1) Have a good jack and floor stands to support the vehicle, since you need to get under it.
2) I found it impossible to siphon this ST tank. Best is a five gallon bucket. Remove the filler hose at the tank and gently push a screwdriver in to open the anti-splash valve. To stop flow just pull the screwdriver back.
3) Remove the plastic skid plate, two M10x1.25 bolts on side of the frame rail, one underside at back and two nuts on the inside near the driveshaft. You will need to remove the L support, to gain access to the rear tank strap bolt. Remove the plate in front of the fuel filter and disconnect the fuel line at filter outlet (white clip, squeeze together ends and push in to release). You can leave the fuel filter in place during the tank drop so you don't need to struggle with the red clip on the inlet to the filter.hi
4) Tank is held in with two straps, front has a M10 nut (15 mm head) and rear is a bolt of the same size. But before you do this have a board 20x20 inches and if possible a 1x3 attached to the edge which will help the tank from moving around once free. This size will fit nicely between the two strap locations. You need to ensure the board is fastened to your jack securely. The tank is not heavy when drained but bulky and it wants to move rearward and toward the center of the vehicle. A bungee cord will also help once the tank is free.
5) With the cradle in place, you can remove the fasteners for the straps. If the hardware is rusty and needs cut, the rear is just a spring nut and bolt, the front is a stud and nut. A 3/8" carriage bolt will easily replace the stud and fit in the frame slot, if needed. Remove the straps which hook into the side of frame rail. You do not have to remove the driveshaft, but need to pull the rear strap past it, to remove.
6) At this point the tank is free, but only lower it a inch or two, so you can disconnect the EVAP hose in the rear at the valve (slip on), the vent line (white clip, push in to release). At front there is another vent line (blue clip, push in to release). Now lower the tank another few inches and you can disconnect the fuel pump electrical connecter, which is near the frame rail at the pump location. It will probably be out of site, so you will need to feel for it.
7) Tank is ready for removal and it needs to move rearward about four inches to clear the front cross member. Then it can be lowered clear and the bungee helps with it not sliding around.
At this point you can test the fuel pump without removing it from the tank. The electrical connector has two rows of pins, four on top and three on bottom. If you apply 12vdc to the center two pins on the top row of four, the pump will or will not run. If it runs you can attach your pressure gage to the filter outlet to see the pressure.
I did not do this because I did not know, until I disassembled the pump how it could be checked. If I had I would have found out the pump was good, but I had already ordered a new Motorcraft replacement.
So after replacing the pump, pump retainer ring, o ring and new filter, I reinstalled the tank. Went to put the key in the on position and nothing...no priming or line pressure.
On to the next component which is the Fuel Pump Driver Module. This is hard to see but is bolted to a bracket above the rear frame cross member. The spare tire need to be removed and you can follow the wiring to it. It is in a pretty difficult location and you need to work somewhat blind. The electrical connect released pretty easily and you have two M6x1.0 (8mm heads) to remove. Be sure to have a good socket and bite before attempting to remove. If you strip the head it will be very difficult to get into that area to cut or grind the heads off.
Below is a couple of pictures of what I found....not good. It is a common failure on F150s, but i didn't know this until I did more digging.
So, new FPDM ordered. It appears that Ford no longer sells this module for the Explorer, so I went with the Dorman aftermarket. Part looked good but it was a struggle to install.
The part bolts in fine but when I plugged in the connector, it would not seat. When I went to pull the plug back out the plug separated into the white plastic part and the terminals/outer connector part. I removed the module and was able to pull the white plastic part out of it without damage and clip back into the connector. I then tried to seat the connector without the module installed. I thought this worked because the electrical connector clicked. However still no priming in the key on position.
I checked all the relays, fuses and inertia switch for power and all was good. Went back to the FPDM and had to put the ends of the connector against the frame rail and push the module on to the connector. I am guessing the socket on the Dorman part is somewhat smaller than the original Ford part. Once I did this, I had the pump prime and fuel pressure.
So, the FPDM was the problem. But if I have to ever replace it, I will need to destroy it to release the electrical plug.
I have to add this failure is very scary. I was on backroads mainly when the problem happened, but if this happened merging onto a highway or at speed to lose power, it could be much worse. I hope this helps someone because is I couldn't find much on it when it comes to the Sport Trac.
I just want to add, if you are testing the pump in the tank you need to add a gallon or two of fuel into the tank if it was emptied. The pump can't be sucking air or it will not give you an accurate reading, in fact it will give like 1psi reading. When I did this on the bench I used water, since I wasn't going to be reusing the pump.
