A/C Rear Line Leak

[padjoe]

Removal of intake manifold makes easier access to the connections

 

[padjoe]

New pipes are installed
Just pulled vacuum and held. Installation wasn't awful I did it on the driveway.
I removed the old pipes except around the gas tank.
I didn't want to drop it so I removed just the smaller pipe that allowed me to put the 2 rubber pipes over the top of the fat pipe and 2 coolant pipes. Then cable tied all pipes together. The connections are better than the old ones. You can feel it grip tight when pushing together. Rubber hose material seems quality.
If they last for a long time it's a great upgrade.

 

[mrsharkspoiler]

Removal of intake manifold makes easier access to the connections

View attachment 430301 View attachment 430302

Is that the connections where one would install those rear block offs?

 

[Brian16Limited]

I bought a set of the block off plates on Amazon as a Plan B, but my extended warranty provider is covering the full repair cost to get the leaking rear AC lines resolved. If anyone could use them to fix your AC, message me.

 

[JimWalters]

New pipes are installed
Just pulled vacuum and held. Installation wasn't awful I did it on the driveway.
I removed the old pipes except around the gas tank.
I didn't want to drop it so I removed just the smaller pipe that allowed me to put the 2 rubber pipes over the top of the fat pipe and 2 coolant pipes. Then cable tied all pipes together. The connections are better than the old ones. You can feel it grip tight when pushing together. Rubber hose material seems quality.
If they last for a long time it's a great upgrade.

How did you get the rear connection apart?
I'm in 5 hours so far with no luck.

 

[padjoe]

How did you get the rear connection apart?
I'm in 5 hours so far with no luck.

Do you mean behind the rear wheel or rear of the engine?

 

[JimWalters]

Do you mean behind the rear wheel or rear of the engine?

Behind the rear wheels.
I'm surprised Ford didn't put a tapped hole in it to use a jack screw to get them apart.

 

[padjoe]

Behind the rear wheels.
I'm surprised Ford didn't put a tapped hole in it to use a jack screw to get them apart.

I just let pb blaster sit on it for 24 hrs did another spray halfway. Heard stories that the leak causes the bolts to sieze with rust so I got it saturated with blaster. Also I held the upper section best I could while trying to break the corrosion.

 

[padjoe]

I just let pb blaster sit on it for 24 hrs did another spray halfway. Heard stories that the leak causes the bolts to sieze with rust so I got it saturated with blaster. Also I held the upper section best I could while trying to break the corrosion.

If the nuts corroded, I try to tighten first just a little then try to remove.
Hitting your socket wrench with a hammer or mallet to break the rust may work to but gently does it.

 

[JimWalters]

If the nuts corroded, I try to tighten first just a little then try to remove.
Hitting your socket wrench with a hammer or mallet to break the rust may work to but gently does it.

Well, 8 hours into it, and I finally was able to remove the rear AC connections.
Since I was replacing the line with the rubber hose replacement kit, I used an oscillating tool to cut the fittings in half. The entire problem with them coming apart was the large amount of corrosion between the stud and the fitting.
The part of the fitting with the O-ring pulled out with no issues. I had to put vice grips on the piece around the stud and twist and pull many times before they released.
Everything soaked overnight in PB Blaster and I even tried gently heating it with a torch to no avail.

 

[Biohazrus]

Mine is leaking, again....
This guy just changed the seals
part: yf3534 & yf 37294


10.52 can$ with shipping from rockauto.
Dounds like a no brainer against the 3500 pipe replacement!
Any thoughts?

Sorry if mentioned earlier, too many post...

Btw, I sent a comment to Ford Canada stating this as not acceptable, first that I have this happening twice, seconds that stuff is toxic, third, the procedure says to change the whole piping when just the seals are bad.
Also stated that they should have shielded it to minimize the risk.
I'm no foul, don't think I'll have them recall it, but at least I said it. Poor design on few aspects in my point of view.
But if many does report as non acceptable, maybe it could be better done.

 

[Deep Impact Domo]

Thank you for the responses. Yes the service tech said it's the AC line that runs under the truck to the rear of the vehicle. So I'm assuming what you stated is what the issue is and price wise sounds about right then. I guess it's time to fight with Ford motor company and see what they will do about this. I don't think a 4 year old car should have these issues! Thanks again for all your input!

I had just gone through this same issue with the rear AC lines leaking. I had both lines cracked open at the bend leading up to where the Condenser is conncted. I purchased the lines between the Condenser and the two broken lines behind the drivers rear wheel( #1 in photo) for $165.00 and then went to Amazon and purchased new rubber AC lines in a kit for $375 - LINK BELOW Amazon product ASIN B0844L9NQJI had my mechanic replace the bad lines with the new rubber lines and it cost me just over $1000 bucks. Good Luck!

 

[Biohazrus]

Well, was not the oring... Still leaking, sucks bu only cost 30$. I think it was worth to try.
I JBweld it, just applied a second time as I saw it was trying to leak again. Not sure if it is a good option but there is nothing like trying!
Not an easy spot to get clean and have to be careful to not ruin the bolt if I really need to change it!
If it does not solve my problem, I'll get that hose to reline it myself.

 

[Biohazrus]

Well, was not the oring... Still leaking, sucks bu only cost 30$. I think it was worth to try.
I JBweld it, just applied a second time as I saw it was trying to leak again. Not sure if it is a good option but there is nothing like trying!
Not an easy spot to get clean and have to be careful to not ruin the bolt if I really need to change it!
If it does not solve my problem, I'll get that hose to reline it myself.

JBweld was not able to block it. Gas always managed to find a way thru. Tried pushing it back every 1/2 hours, as it became thicker. No luck.
So ordered the rubber line.

Was a little challenging to reach the connector behind the motor. Jacked the car to give me little more room under.
Used all my extensions and a universal joint. Added tape to the wobbling union to prevent excess movement, jammed the socket in place from the top and connected the extension from under the car. I was alone, this would have been much easier being 2.
Mine were not too hard to remove as they were only 3 years old...
Then I "simply" feed the hoses, it did give a fight as connector becomes quite big when trying to feed them where they go! Especially at the rear over the axle. Then tie wrap to existing pipe.
just came back from a 3000km vacation and all held in place!
So total: 500$ for the hoses, 450$ for filling the unit again which included an oil change.
Took me about 2 hours, probably half if I had a buddy to help.

PS: remove your motor cover once a while, found a nice nest around the motor head.

 

[Tluck2230]

I bought a set of the block off plates on Amazon as a Plan B, but my extended warranty provider is covering the full repair cost to get the leaking rear AC lines resolved. If anyone could use them to fix your AC, message me.

I could use them