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And the hits keep coming...

If they are from 1994 I would! I use timken or precision

Usually I don’t like ti replace parts unless they are bad, but it’s nothing for me to Re visit some wheel bearings since I am in the shop
Daily.

If there is any question then I would like replace all wearable parts seals and bearings, etx
 



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If they are from 1994 I would! I use timken or precision

Usually I don’t like ti replace parts unless they are bad, but it’s nothing for me to Re visit some wheel bearings since I am in the shop
Daily.

If there is any question then I would like replace all wearable parts seals and bearings, etx
Yeah that is what I was figuring. The truck only has 122k original miles on it but it sat for awhile in a garage.
 






Also I see that alot of people on here swear by semi-metallic but I have read that they tend to be loud and dusty.

Is ceramic just not worth it?

The truck is my daily driver but it also the family camping rig and we spend a good bit of time off road.
Nothing crazy, very rarely have to engage the 4x4. Just dusty forest roads.

Just wondering what the best route would be to go?
 






Yeah that is what I was figuring. The truck only has 122k original miles on it but it sat for awhile in a garage.
Do you know the part No. of the bearings you use. I am having a hard time finding some.
 








This is my cart at Rockauto. I think I can make the wait time work for better parts.

Does this look like everything I would need?...besides GOOP, rags and brake clean of course.


I also work with a guy who thinks he may have a inch/lb torque wrench.
 






The cart isn't showing for me. As for the pads, go for the cheaper option.
 






Semi metallic are what I run, bendix, raebestos, duralast gold, Napa, etc etc. just get some good quality semi metallic

Ceramic is good on the later model trucks with hardened rotors
Maybe late to the party but we usually replace auto
Hubs with a good set of manuals

Otherwise just make sure you are prepared to remove the auto hubs, the little keyway keeper can frustrate people
After that I still don’t think I have the right hub socket for Dana 35 auto hubs spindle nut but they always come loose with just a hammer/screwdriver or long needle nose and spin… so it’s not really needed

Torque wrench good idea first few times, once you get the feel for setting pre load on some wheel bearings, well we do it by feel.
I have run the Dana 35 ttb for many years now…. It is a very good and reliable setup parts are cheap! (Compared to the newer unit bearings)

Keep the caliper slide pins clean and lubed, check spindle nut torque after 50-100
Miles and it will take good care of you for a long time to come
 






Sorry for the lull,

I've had a lot going on in a little bit of time. So, the truck had to take a backseat. In my cart I have the Bendix PRT 1900 on Rockauto. I believe these will work. Also the Bendix fleet Metlok pads. Timken bearings 4 of them. And two seals. I believe that is all I'll need right?

It'll take about a week for everything to get here.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 






So, the bearings I want to order are the Timekin Set 37 on rockauto. It comes with races I don't need those correct because the front race comes on the rotor and then the seal holds the inner cone in place correct?
 






I think this link will work to see my cart. I'm going to keep researching and cross referencing tonight and make sure that everything I have is the right part.
But if anyone has the time and the link works I would appreciate it just in case I might have missed something.
Thanks again.

 












ceramic lasts very very very long, dusts very little( but SM has the most bite. imo the more dust (usually) the better it bites.

crramic for a DD
SM for max braking
oragic cause they the budget option
 






ceramic lasts very very very long, dusts very little( but SM has the most bite. imo the more dust (usually) the better it bites.

crramic for a DD
SM for max braking
oragic cause they the budget option
I've heard that ceramic can get noisy if they get hot. I live in an area with lots of steep inclines and I spend a lot of time on dirt mountain roads. Not necessarily 4 wheel drive territory but definitely dusty and dirty in the summer months.

Should I go with the Bendix Ceramics or their fleet metlok?
 






p
I've heard that ceramic can get noisy if they get hot. I live in an area with lots of steep inclines and I spend a lot of time on dirt mountain roads. Not necessarily 4 wheel drive territory but definitely dusty and dirty in the summer months.

Should I go with the Bendix Ceramics or their fleet metlok?

hmmm have drilled and slotted with ceramics on this one and had SM before. hauling and towing have not noticed any noise difference, but i havent been looking for one specifically. so my inclination is to say that if youre not listening for it, probably not? theres lots of hills here, live at the top of one here (this is a hill that with a sohc foot to the floor i cannot go. above 40)

and it depends. is it your DD? since while SM offers the best bite ceramics longevity takes the cake for a DD use
 






barring exceptions this is a general rule of thumb. have been happy w the fomoco blue backed pads for heavy duty use (forget their name) and the powerstop truck & tow ones

EC0626CF-C835-4B15-BE3E-39523619BFFF.png
 






Ceramic pads will warp cheap rotors
If you go w ceramic make sure you have good rotors
Speaking from experience here
This is why I stick w semi metallic on the ttb trucks
 






I always go with semi metallic over ceramics, unless it’s a complete high performance kit sold together.

A few feet of braking distance can sometimes save you thousands.
 












Okay, so all the parts are here and there is going to be good weather tomorrow. I have a question about the torque process. After I install the new bearings and I am ready to torque the nut I torque it to 35ft lbs while spinning the rotor, then back off a quarter turn then tighten to 16 in lbs. At this point I begin to fiddle with the magnet keeper correct?
 



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Also is it okay to use an adapter on a torque wrench? The only in lbs torque wrench I can find is a 3/8 and my spindle nut wrench is a 1/2 drive.
 






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