Oil Delivery - Timing Chain Adjusters | Ford Explorer Forums

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Oil Delivery - Timing Chain Adjusters

Argos587

Active Member
Joined
June 13, 2020
Messages
51
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15
City, State
Greenvile, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 XLT V6
2001 4.0
Yep another one, but more directed at oil delivery inquiry.
Dealing with dreaded timing chain noise (driver side top, close to the adjuster). Possible oil delivery issue?
Full timing chains sets (chains, guides, adjusters, etc) replaced about 1.5 yrs ago. Engine was notably clean when replacing the chains (no sludge or crud visible) For a few months now have noticed a timing chain noise (rattle). An oil change (10w-30 High Mileage full synthetic) seemed to help for a few days, but noise came back - at idle and 2000-3000 rpm (quiet otherwise). Replaced both adjusters (Melling) 2 weeks ago, helped for a few days, but noise is back.
Could there be an oil delivery issue to the front adjuster?
Oil pressure: engine hot 15 psi at idle, 40 psi at 2000 rpm
No other noises or issues, engine runs great (odometer shows 300,000 miles. Owned it since 200,000 miles) not sure if engine is original.

This is a daily driver so time availability is limited for diagnosis/repairs.
 



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Chain noise while running?

Either the cassettes broke again, or the tensioners suck. We’ve had many cases of people here using aftermarket (Cloyes, specifically) and having problems that were immediately cleared up by using Ford tensioners.

Or go to manual tensioners and never worry again.
 






Maybe use this kit

Could there be an oil delivery issue to the front adjuster?
Sometimes some old plastic parts find themselves in the engine oil pickup,
this could limit the oil flow.

Full timing chains sets (chains, guides, adjusters, etc) replaced about 1.5 yrs ago.

If the front timing chain casette broke again you would see this by looking into the engine oil fill plug
and hear it while the rattle get louder with running engine and open plug.
But you can not see if the chain tensioner of the balance shaft is broken again,
this rattles too.
So i hope you or your mechanic used motorcraft or rover parts for this timing chain job.

This is a daily driver so time availability is limited for diagnosis/repairs.
My 97 is a daily with high mileage too, but we have to spend so much time to keep
them on the road if we would not like them.

regards Wolfgang
 






Chain noise while running?

Either the cassettes broke again, or the tensioners suck. We’ve had many cases of people here using aftermarket (Cloyes, specifically) and having problems that were immediately cleared up by using Ford tensioners.

Or go to manual tensioners and never worry again.
Was not aware manual tensioners were available.
 






Maybe use this kit


Sometimes some old plastic parts find themselves in the engine oil pickup,
this could limit the oil flow.



If the front timing chain casette broke again you would see this by looking into the engine oil fill plug
and hear it while the rattle get louder with running engine and open plug.
But you can not see if the chain tensioner of the balance shaft is broken again,
this rattles too.
So i hope you or your mechanic used motorcraft or rover parts for this timing chain job.


My 97 is a daily with high mileage too, but we have to spend so much time to keep
them on the road if we would not like them.

regards Wolfgang
Will check the cassettes/guides next. Will provide update when available.
 






2001 4.0
Yep another one, but more directed at oil delivery inquiry.
Dealing with dreaded timing chain noise (driver side top, close to the adjuster). Possible oil delivery issue?
Full timing chains sets (chains, guides, adjusters, etc) replaced about 1.5 yrs ago. Engine was notably clean when replacing the chains (no sludge or crud visible) For a few months now have noticed a timing chain noise (rattle). An oil change (10w-30 High Mileage full synthetic) seemed to help for a few days, but noise came back - at idle and 2000-3000 rpm (quiet otherwise). Replaced both adjusters (Melling) 2 weeks ago, helped for a few days, but noise is back.
Could there be an oil delivery issue to the front adjuster?
Oil pressure: engine hot 15 psi at idle, 40 psi at 2000 rpm
No other noises or issues, engine runs great (odometer shows 300,000 miles. Owned it since 200,000 miles) not sure if engine is original.

This is a daily driver so time availability is limited for diagnosis/repairs.
Update, removed driver side valve cover and found a plastic piece on a ledge about 2 inches below the upper sprocket. SO, time to replace that guide and will replace the lower chain tensioner/guide set as well. Used Cloyes set previously (before I found out their poor quality).

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Yes
The story has been posted a few times now

Basically
Polaris used a ford tensioner in their prostar 999cc engines (xp1k) and I owned two of these machines. They suffered from colt start rattle, same ford tensioner… fun stuff

Anyways the racing /‘aftermarket came up with manual tensioners for the Polaris machines to eliminate the cold start rattle /
Slack tensioner condition/ which in turn allows them to fit our sohc engines.

Manual tensioners you thread them in and set tension, forget about it. No oil pressure needed just constant pressure on the guide. They work well and they are cheap
 






They work well and they are cheap
Cheap?

This one ist cheap, what are the differences?

And how to install with the matching tension for the sohc?


What about oil leaks, maintenance and the rear sohc timing chain ?
 






A manual tensioners will not fix your truck with that broken guide
Here is a video of what's needed to fix your engine
 






Manual tensioners can only be installed (or any tensioner for that matter) against a working and non broken guide

You can spend $400 or $40 for a manual tensioner, the difference in price is the brand name, manufacture and quality of the materials. The stainless steel $40 ones appear to work just fine for me ;)
No oil leaks, they install exactly like a factory tensioner with a thin washer for the oil seal
 






A manual tensioners will not fix your truck with that broken guide
Here is a video of what's needed to fix your engine

Agree with what you are saying. I will be replacing the front cam chain guide and lower(main) chain guide/tensioner with quality ones while in there. I plan to replace the hydraulic tensioners (both) with manual ones to eliminate future failures.
 






My install steps for manual timing tensioners
Use this tensioner at your own risk
Its not a fix all



1...Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust
>>>>>Only turn the engine clockwise <<<<<
2...Set engine to top dead center before installing !!!!!
3...Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
4...Then install it into the head
5...Tighten the tensioner adjuster 10mm with your fingers !!!!!!
6...Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
........Do not use a ratchet !!.......<<<<<<<<<<
7...Now have someone turn the engine by hand using the crank bolt clockwise till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again ...with your fingers ...!!!!

8...Now disconnect the crank sensor
9...Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

>>>>>>>never put much force turning that adjustment screw like almost no force required<<<
We are just removing the slack that's it!!!!!

10...Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

11...Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn
Lock it down
done
>>>>>>>>>Do this one Tensioner at a time !!!!!!<<<<<<<
 






Manual tensioners can only be installed (or any tensioner for that matter) against a working and non broken guide

You can spend $400 or $40 for a manual tensioner, the difference in price is the brand name, manufacture and quality of the materials. The stainless steel $40 ones appear to work just fine for me ;)
No oil leaks, they install exactly like a factory tensioner with a thin washer for the oil seal
Do you happen to have part numbers for the $40 one?
 


















My install steps for manual timing tensioners
Use this tensioner at your own risk
Its not a fix all



1...Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust
>>>>>Only turn the engine clockwise <<<<<
2...Set engine to top dead center before installing !!!!!
3...Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
4...Then install it into the head
5...Tighten the tensioner adjuster 10mm with your fingers !!!!!!
6...Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
........Do not use a ratchet !!.......<<<<<<<<<<
7...Now have someone turn the engine by hand using the crank bolt clockwise till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again ...with your fingers ...!!!!

8...Now disconnect the crank sensor
9...Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

>>>>>>>never put much force turning that adjustment screw like almost no force required<<<
We are just removing the slack that's it!!!!!

10...Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

11...Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn
Lock it down
done
>>>>>>>>>Do this one Tensioner at a time
Will do, thanks
 






Great, thanks.
Could use some help for Ford part numbers for cam chain guide and main chain guide and tensioner. Have 2001, XLT, 2WD 4.0, not Sport. Ford does not show these parts for my Explorer. Plus, have read new kits were made using better materials (maybe parts for 2002?)
. Thoughts,inputs, references?
 






I believe the parts were superseded—so you shouldn’t find any of the older stuff in the shelf, should be all updated Ford stuff.
 



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2001 4.0
Yep another one, but more directed at oil delivery inquiry.
Dealing with dreaded timing chain noise (driver side top, close to the adjuster). Possible oil delivery issue?
Full timing chains sets (chains, guides, adjusters, etc) replaced about 1.5 yrs ago. Engine was notably clean when replacing the chains (no sludge or crud visible) For a few months now have noticed a timing chain noise (rattle). An oil change (10w-30 High Mileage full synthetic) seemed to help for a few days, but noise came back - at idle and 2000-3000 rpm (quiet otherwise). Replaced both adjusters (Melling) 2 weeks ago, helped for a few days, but noise is back.
Could there be an oil delivery issue to the front adjuster?
Oil pressure: engine hot 15 psi at idle, 40 psi at 2000 rpm
No other noises or issues, engine runs great (odometer shows 300,000 miles. Owned it since 200,000 miles) not sure if engine is original.

This is a daily driver so time availability is limited for diagnosis/repairs.
Discovered the noise was due to lack of oil to the front adjuster. Noticed oil gauge jumping and after much diagnosis for this issue, found many timing chain guide plastic pieces blocking the oil pump pick up. (This was from a previous repair that someone else did the work) Cleaned out and removed all pieces and all is good now. Almost no noise at all. Plan to install manual adjusters and replace front chain/guide soon as a preventative measure for the future.
 






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