Would you assume my ABS control module is bad?

[John Livingston]

My '97 Mountaineer has had a persistent ABS light. I ordered a new code reader, that would do ABS, it could find no data, saying, "We did not receive a response from this module, or it is not equipped in this vehicle." It was a fairly cheap unit, so I figured it just didn't have the right parameters to read it. I bought another reader that specifically listed the '97 Mountaineer/Explorer ABS as a system it could read. It gave me essentially the same read out: "Unable to establish communication."

Since I had the front wheels off, I tested the those ABS sensors. Got resistance on both, which varied as I turned the hubs, so I'm assuming those are good. I'd put in new hubs not long ago, which came with sensors, so they're not original. I got the rear raised enough to see that sensor wasn't going to be fun to test. I'm willing to pul it to do that, but it seems to me, even if it's bad, I'll still get no data on my readers. So, I'm leaning heavily toward ordering a new ABS control module, and waiting to see if IT says the rear sensor is an issue.

Does that make sense? Do these control modules fail very often?

 

[1sicbronconut]

I'd find a wiring diagram and check the powers and grounds at the module if they're all good I'd suspect the module as well.

 

[J_C]

Most Explorers don't make it to 27 years old, so it might be hard to determine what the expected lifespan is of an ABS module. Your guess is as good as mine whether it's bad, though in the back of my mind I am wondering if both of the code readers aren't compatible. Can they see ANY Ford specific information outside of the OBD2 code set? If not then I suspect that they aren't compatible and would try Forscan app with an ELM327 dongle, but I already have one and hate to advise you to keep buying more code scanners.

One thing you can do for the rear sensor is a resistance check at the ABS controller connector. Here is a post that hopefully has the correct ABS connector pinout:

Weird brake issue!

Hi, all! In all my years of driving, Fords and Mopars from MY 67-99, this has never happened, I come to a stop, then it feels like the brakes let loose and it rolls forward about 3 feet! Had the brakes all done in '21. Haven't put more than say 4000 miles on them. But mostly city driving. I have...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[John Livingston]

Thanks. I'll check out the link for testing the rear sensor at the control unit.

I've started the Forscan download on my iPad, but it might make more sense to use my Windows LT, which doesn't get much exercise otherwise. I can still send the two new readers back to Amazon, so getting another one isn't an obstacle. Forscan indicates there are now tons of counterfeit ELM327 dongles. Looks like they recommend the OBDLink MX+ bluetooth for working with iOS. I guess I could try the bluetooth dongle I just got, to see if it's compatible, first.

Your suggestions are much appreciated.

 

[J_C]

A lot of the counterfeit ones do work, but many don't have the pins and circuitry included to handle the J1850 protocol that these vehicles use, so I'd look for conformation from fellow buyers that theirs works on early OBD2 Fords, and with the generics, there isn't an assurance that the design didn't change over time. For example the bluetooth with a blue and orange sticker, can have one of several different PCBs inside. Even my BAFX that I use with an android phone, which is a clone AFAIK, used to come in a similar looking black case with the blue and orange sticker on it.

Now look at what I just received from Aliexpress for $2... it has the same blue and orange sticker as so many others do, and if this thing works, which I haven't tried yet, the Chinese are getting really good at miniaturization. If it doesn't work with J1850, then it probably still does Canbus so I can use it for *something*...

 

[John Livingston]

That's nuts! I've had fun ordering from AliExpress. They have that OBDLink MX+ for less, but not enough less to have a more complicated return process, I think. I've got an '04 Miata, so I'm thinking some of the Forscan tools might transfer to that.

 

[410Fortune]

See other thread

 

[John Livingston]

See other thread

Well, I spoke too soon about not needing your wiring diagrams. I pulled the control unit's connector, and it doesn't match the pin-out diagram I'd been referred to earlier, and my factory manual just wants you to plug the factory tester into it. I'll attach a photo of my connector and of the diagram I was hoping would work. Mainly looking for the ground, power, and the rear sensor pins. I'm figuring if I've got power and ground, the controller's likely shot, but it'd be nice to verify the rear sensor without having to pull it, while I'm at it.

 

[410Fortune]

You have early 97
Matches 96 wiring book

Your airbox is probably round?

 

[John Livingston]

Yes, round airbox. Thanks for all the diagrams. This is a big help!

 

[John Livingston]

I'm about to head out of town for Thanksgiving, but couldn't resist running some quick tests on the connector. I do see good ground at terminals 1 and 14. See resistance at the rear sensor. I get system voltage at 20, the "ignition feed," but nothing at 17, "vehicle power." I've only checked the main ABS fuse, #14, I think, and it was good. All the others seemed to have enough other equipment on them, that I thought I could rule them out, since everything else is working. Any tips on why zip at 17 would be appreciated. I'll try to study the wiring diagrams tonight.

 

[allmyEXes]

His '97 Mountaineer is probably like mine, Manufactured in March of 1996, so it would really be a 1996.5 Mountaineer. Ford has done alot of half year vehicles. To name one in particular that most gear heads know of, 1964 and a half Ford Mustang.
I located a special wiring book for the Early 1996.5 Mountaineers. The book is at work. When I get there, I will look and see if the connector looks like Jamie's picture. He is correct about it matching 1996 Explorer wiring.

 

[410Fortune]

It has a round airbox so it is a early 5.0

There are several fuses in the above diagrams shown for the abs system

Fuses 9 and 10 in the under hood box

Fuses 11 13 and 14 interior fuse box

The wiring info for the 97 is not correct you need to be checking a 96 book fuse 17 does not power abs in a 96 model

 

[John Livingston]

The factory shop manual, two volumes, that I have is dated March 1996, so maybe it's the right one? I'm basing the pin outs on the above image. I'll compare it to my manual when I get home Thursday, but any confirmation you might come up with would be greatly appreciated.

 

[allmyEXes]

@John Livingston Do your books have Mountaineer printed on the front of them? I purchased this book on E-bay and was surprised to find a 1996.5 specific Mountaineer book. I think that I told @410Fortune Jamie about a second 96.5 MM book that popped up. Where in the book did you find the date?

From this book.

 

[John Livingston]

Mine's Explorer/Mountaineer. It shows the March 1996 date at the bottom of each page.Yours does show 17 for power, so you'd think that'd be right, but I'm open to all possibilities! I'm looking forward to getting home and double-checking all the relevant fuses. I'm half-tempted to trace the wire to #17, attach a Posi-tap, and run 12V directly to it. What could go wrong?

 

[John Livingston]

I've now checked all four relevant fuses. They all are fine. I'll attach the page from my manual, which shows, again, 20 and 17 getting 12V. 20 says "fused ignition run feed" and it reads a bit lower than battery voltage, say 11.5V. 17 says "Fused ignition RUN/START Feed. I'm not sure what the difference is, but I get zero volts at that. These are with the key switched to the on (just before cranking) position. I may try to test 17 with the engine running, but that has proven difficult so far. Running jumper cables to the battery (the battery is a bit old) does not spin it enough to fire. I'll see if I can still get to the ABS connector pins with the battery back where it belongs, after I charge it.

Although the manual says "1997 Explorer Mountaineer" on the cover, the pin-out page just says, "1997 Mountaineer March, 1996" at the bottom of the page. Sure seems like this should be the right one for my heap.

 

[410Fortune]

It should be the right one according to the dates on the manual
But is shows the incorrect abs connector
Which leads us to believe you still have a 96 as far as the actual truck is concerned

The 96-97.5 explorer and mountaineers v8 they did some strange things. I have two gold ones here built within 30 days of each other
Both 97
One has round airbox one has square
The wiring is different

One is an early 96-97 and one is a 97-97.5 as far as the wiring is concerned
You can’t tell by book date
You tell By the actual wiring in the truck

There were mid year changes
Your abs connector is 96 the wiring attached to that connector is also 96… as far as the books go

You cannot plug in a 97.5 wiring harness into a 96-97 abs module… the trucks whole engine and power harness is different
And it is not the one shown in your manual



You are welcome to compare some
Connectors on your truck and see if they differ from your book there. I bet they do
C115 the large square 42 pin connector is a good place to check

I’ve been through this a lot as I dismantled 50+ of these trucks (crushed 19 in one summer) and do v8 conversions so

Bottom line ….your abs connector matches my diagrams and fuses from My 96 wiring manual …
Just sayin your still checking the wrong fuses

 

[John Livingston]

This is the previous page in my manual, showing the connector. That looks identical to what I have, unless I'm misunderstanding, and you're talking about something else. I'll look at fuses in the owner's manual and see what that has.

 

[410Fortune]

Okay I was wondering good info!
Your manual should cover both then
Does it show different fuse boxes with build dates?