BW4405 bearing replacement | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

BW4405 bearing replacement

it reads wrong rpms, so 4x4 could engage if not necessary, had the same issue.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





it reads wrong rpms, so 4x4 could engage if not necessary, had the same issue.
4x4 can only engage if the button is pressed in though right? It's not like I'm going to be drive through town at 45mph in RWD and all of a sudden the computer decides to engage 4x4 because the sensor malfunctions! Can that happen??

Whatever the case my best bet is the junkyard! There's like 15 Explorers there right now and I can probably get the electric motor and sensors for a fraction of the price of the sensor!
 






I may have found a transfer case I can use!
So there's a 95' Explorer XLT at the junkyard and it's an automatic and mines a standard.... Not sure if it's a 5.0 or 4.0 if that even matters...
It looks like the same exact rear case half I need with the 3 sensors and the yoke feels very solid and I'm 100% that case is good!
I drained the fluid and it's nice and clean and red so a very good sign! No metal shavings, pieces or glitter of any kind!!!

The ID numbers on the sticker of the junkyard tc are 44-05-000-007...

The numbers on my broken one are 44-05-000-012...

From the research I've done the 007 will have different internals like wider chain and sprocket and I'm not sure what else...
The junkyard wants $200 for it with 30 day return policy so I'm thinking I should at least be able to use the rear case half and maybe some internals...

I think I may be able to just bolt it up as is and not even take it apart! Like I said the fluid is super clean and the yoke is solid!
I'll have to replace the electric shift motor because all the wires are broken but from that I see it has the same bolt pattern to the tranny and the shaft is the same 25 spline one so I know it'll bolt up to my standard tranny...

The thing about the 007 one though is it has a different yoke than mine for the front driveshaft that goes to the front axle... My original transfer case has the cv-joint yoke and the 007 has the yoke for a u-joint driveshaft...

In theory I should just be able to install this complete 007 unit to my standard transmission and hook up the rear driveshaft and be able to roll! No?
As for the frontI think the cv-joint and the u-joint driveshafts are the same length so all I'd have to do is get a u-joint driveshaft!

So same bolt pattern to tranny, same sensors but different front driveshaft yoke....
Will it work???
Thoughts???
 






Not sure if it's a 5.0 or 4.0 if that even matters...
Make sure it is not a 5.0, it has a AWD transfer case. other internals.

The front drive shaft joke, it has a reason why a CV-joint is used.
With a 4.0 SOHC engine (more torque and higher speed) the CV-joints run smoth
without any vibration. If the boot is not cracked, the CV-joint is not worn out
it last longer and its easyer to change and cheaper.

It is possible to convert the transfer case from U-joint style to CV-joint style
and reverse. I have tried this on our 97 SOHC and BW4405 (CV-joint to U-joint + double cardan yoke),
spend time and money for nothing. Heavy vibrations!
The lenght will fit.
mi3191.jpg


Front drive shaft (aligned with new u-joints and bolts) on TC 4405, not worth the efford.
IMG_1686.JPG


So i would recommend, if your transfer case from the junkyard (U-joint style) will fit to your tranny,
use the CV-joint shaft from your transfer case if you decide to use the complete junkyard transfer case.
To change those parts is not difficult.
vergleich.jpg


Parts to change
IMG_1404.JPG


Or you decide only to change the rear transfer case housing and took the good parts of the junkyard TC.
 






Make sure it is not a 5.0, it has a AWD transfer case. other internals.

The front drive shaft joke, it has a reason why a CV-joint is used.
With a 4.0 SOHC engine (more torque and higher speed) the CV-joints run smoth
without any vibration. If the boot is not cracked, the CV-joint is not worn out
it last longer and its easyer to change and cheaper.

It is possible to convert the transfer case from U-joint style to CV-joint style
and reverse. I have tried this on our 97 SOHC and BW4405 (CV-joint to U-joint + double cardan yoke),
spend time and money for nothing. Heavy vibrations!
The lenght will fit.
View attachment 465838

Front drive shaft (aligned with new u-joints and bolts) on TC 4405, not worth the efford.
View attachment 465841

So i would recommend, if your transfer case from the junkyard (U-joint style) will fit to your tranny,
use the CV-joint shaft from your transfer case if you decide to use the complete junkyard transfer case.
To change those parts is not difficult.
View attachment 465839

Parts to change
View attachment 465840

Or you decide only to change the rear transfer case housing and took the good parts of the junkyard TC.
I picked up that 007 transfer case from the junkyard!!!!! The motor in that one is a 4.0 so this should work fine right?
I honestly don't even need 4x4 so I'll probably just install this unit and leave the front driveshaft out for a while... I just need to be able to drive this thing already!
 






Can anyone confirm what I see in these pictures???

So there's two pictures here... one picture is of my old transfer case that's worn out and the other pic is of the 007 tc I just got from the junkyard...

The 007 looks like it has a sleeve around the bearing! Is that a different bearing or is it possible this case had worn down like they usually do and someone machined it and pressed a sleeve into the case to repair the worn out case?????


This is the old case I have... Just a bearing with a rounded edge...
IMG_20250712_124945_020.jpg


This is the 007 I just got from the junkyard... looks different! No rounded edge on the bearing and looks like a sleeve! Did I get lucky here???
IMG_20250712_125546_646.jpg
 












YESSSS!!!! Jackpot!!! I freakin thought so!!!! Awesome! Thanks for confirming!!!! That was $200 well spent! I must've checked like 15 different Explorer's at the junkyard!
There was one tc with the same numbers but no speedo sensor and if they did have a speedo sensor the rear case was badly worn!
The one I ended up with was the last vehicle I checked! The yoke felt more solid than all the others but the numbers didn't match and from what I could see the rear case was the same one I needed so I thought I'd risk it and bring it home. I mean they do have a return policy so not too much of a risk!
I'd say that worked out in my favor and thank God because I felt like that was going to be my only hope of getting this done at the moment!

My original tc has the 1" wide chain and the new one has the wider chain and wider gear! Is that because of the different yoke to the front axle???
 






I think they changed the chain 98, case without speed sensor. It is not depending of joint style, i dont know the reason, maybe to spare material...
 






Getting everything assembled today and hopefully everything works!

There's some strange tech stuff I ran into regarding the bolt torque specs for one end of the rear driveshaft!
I keep running into a 12-16 ft lbs torque recommendation for the bolts going to the transfer case output flange on the rear driveshaft and 70-95 ft lbs for the rear end of the driveshaft going to the pinion flange of the rear axle but the thing is they're the exact same bolts!
There's no way the front one's to the tc are only 12-16!!! There must be some sort of typo or mistake there....
IMG_20250716_124552_446.jpg
IMG_20250716_124635_507.jpg


edit:
I torqued them to 80ft lbs! Both ends of that driveshaft have the same exact bolts!
 






I finished installing the transfer case and finished putting together the axle!🎉
It works! I drove it to town yesterday with no issues! Much much quieter!!!!!
I actually think the tc was locked in to 4 HI because if you remember one of the symptoms when I drove it was that it was kinda lacking in power in higher gears! Maybe the clutch pack was stuck or seized because of the broken ball ramp??? The clutch plates look burnt so that's what my theory is... Makes sense??
It felt like it had the power it should have when I drove it to the store yesterday so...
I have to make a list but I think I have at least $500 into the axle repair and transfer case swap! Not too bad I guess...

There's still more issues to address!
Needs new upper ball joints, new driver side cv boot... the front axle probably has issues because I see it's had an oil leak on the passenger side and I think I hear some noise coming from it...

I'll probably be back soon to address the hard shifting issue!
When shifting in reverse I have to press the clutch and hold it for a little while and ease it into gear and it'll go in smooth that way but if I just try to shift immediately after pressing the clutch it'll grind!
Forward gears are easier to get in but still require me to hold the clutch for a little while first and then ease it into gear....
I'll try to bleed the system again and see what happens there...

Thanks everyone for all your help so far!
 






I think they changed the chain 98, case without speed sensor. It is not depending of joint style, i dont know the reason, maybe to spare material...
hmm...
but my original tc(1" wide chain) is out of a 97'... Maybe one of the previous owners swapped it out with one from a later year...
So it makes sense that the one from the junkyard out of the 95' still has the wider chain...
I think the wider chain is an upgrade but now I'm thinking about taking the new tc apart and putting the cv type shaft in it from my original tc....

I already have a new seal kit on the way for the tc from the junkyard because the input shaft seal has a leak!
Now, if I do a parts swap to get the cv shaft in the new tc I'll need to order a new 1" chain because the old one has over 1.5" of deflection!!!

So I just want to confirm what I'll need to get that cv shaft in there....

•New 1" chain
•cv shaft
•Two sprockets
•snap ring
•one bearing(which is obviously already in the tc)
and new seals of course!
IMG_20250724_125323_850.jpg


Anything else other than ATF??

Screenshot_20250724-121642.png
 






Make sure it is not a 5.0, it has a AWD transfer case. other internals.

The front drive shaft joke, it has a reason why a CV-joint is used.
With a 4.0 SOHC engine (more torque and higher speed) the CV-joints run smoth
without any vibration. If the boot is not cracked, the CV-joint is not worn out
it last longer and its easyer to change and cheaper.

It is possible to convert the transfer case from U-joint style to CV-joint style
and reverse. I have tried this on our 97 SOHC and BW4405 (CV-joint to U-joint + double cardan yoke),
spend time and money for nothing. Heavy vibrations!
The lenght will fit.
View attachment 465838

Front drive shaft (aligned with new u-joints and bolts) on TC 4405, not worth the efford.
View attachment 465841

So i would recommend, if your transfer case from the junkyard (U-joint style) will fit to your tranny,
use the CV-joint shaft from your transfer case if you decide to use the complete junkyard transfer case.
To change those parts is not difficult.
View attachment 465839

Parts to change
View attachment 465840

Or you decide only to change the rear transfer case housing and took the good parts of the junkyard TC.
Won't I also need to swap out the drive sprocket on the main shaft????

IMG_20250724_153132_863.jpg
 






I have tried this on our 97 SOHC and BW4405 (CV-joint to U-joint + double cardan yoke),
spend time and money for nothing. Heavy vibrations!
The lenght will fit.
Here's where I'm at...

I'm trying to decide whether to take the tc from the junkyard apart and swap out the yokes so that I can install the original cv shaft but it will require a complete teardown of the tc and a new Borg Warner chain for $75....



OR...



I can just pull the tc to replace the seals and then go back to the junkyard to the same Explorer I got the tc from and get the double cardon front driveshaft for $45 and be done with it!

The only issue will be vibration but how much are we talking about??
"Heavy vibrations"...??? How heavy?

A third option is just leave it 2wd for the time being....

I guess a fourth option would be to go to the junkyard and get that double cardon driveshaft, install it and drive around and find out if the vibration is something I can deal with or if it's just going to be a problem.....

Decisions decisions...

I still have to look into why the tranny is hard to shift! Grinds in reverse if I don't hold the clutch for a few seconds before easing it into gear... Same with first but after it get's going it actually shifts fine..... 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th shift fine.... I'm actually hoping it's just the bushings where the shifter meets the tranny! At least I heard that's what it could be...
The clutch doesn't slip, the gears don't pop out so I think it'll either be the bushings at the shifter or maybe the slave/master cylinders...
The slave cylinder feels fine though... There's no leaks that I can see either...
I'm just trying to avoid pulling the transmission but if I have too then that's what I'll do...
 






The only issue will be vibration but how much are we talking about??
"Heavy vibrations"...??? How heavy?
For me the vibrations were unacceptable, could feel it in steering wheel and driver seat.
Vibration came up at 40 miles/h, getting worse in higher speed.
 






It'll be worth it then to swap those shafts out!!!! Now I just need to order a new chain!

What about the corresponding sprocket on the main shaft???? Am I correct that I'll need to add that as well???
You're picture of the parts I'll need didn't have that...

????????????????????
Guess I'll find out when I take it apart...
 






Featured Content

Back
Top