Sway Bar and SUPERLIFT Post

[Xplodor]

Hey Everyone,

I did the superlift (will post a reply and some pictures this week). The front sway bar connectors and clincking because they are not seated right. Can I just ditch the front sway bar? Are any of you running w/out the front sway bar, how is the ride around corners? I drive the X aggressivley, should I keep them on, and try to fit them. I already had a bushing tear on it.

FYI for potential Superlift buyers. The shocks are rubbing against the front CV joints. I've called superlift and it was forwarded to the R&D department. Wait until there is a fix. ALSO, only buy this lift if you are interested in lifting for looks or mobbing through dirt roads. It handles very well, BUT for rock crawling I wouldn't recommend it. You end up scraping everything. Only buy it if you are planning on running 35s and major skid plates. I took it up to the Sierra's. It was fun, but the front hangs way too LOW and the articulation sucks.

Picts and Details to follow.

Ron

 

[Alec]

If you drive aggresively, you need the front swaybar. Without it you'll lean horribly on corners. But, try disconnecting it when offroad for better articulation.

If you end up running without a swaybar, think about using adjustable shocks so you can stiffen them up to reduce body roll.

 

[Jason_25]

Xplodor, what did you expect for a IFS lift kit? All of them suck.

Maybe you should just order some aftermarket sway bar links with poly bushings?

Also I have heard that the superlift shocks are garbage and that you should invest in new shocks. Maybe an RS9000?

 

[taxx]

Let me chime in here in defense (of who I don't know).

The superlift sway bar links are JUNK! Do yourself a favour and go to a local 4x4 shop and have them fix you up with some longer ones with poly bushings, I think I got ones out of a trailmaster chevy kit.

My shocks don't rub. Must be one of those tolerance things.

I beg to differ about the lift. No you do not get any more clearance under the axle, front or rear, but that is true no matter how you lift. You HAVE to go with bigger tires (part of why I wanted the lift). In defense of the clearance, I believe I got more where I really needed it. Better angles, front and rear, and the frame is more up out of the way for going over obsticles. Yes the T-bars still are the same height, there is nothing you can do about it. But I did notice I hit them less now, why I don't know. But to solve that This winter I am engineering some coilovers for my frontend to didtch the t-bars.

IFS is not ever going to be able to compete with solid axle in rock crawling. You just can't get good articulation out of IFS.

But, all in all it is better (IMHO) than the factory setup for off roading. I am very pleased with my superlift kit. Except for the front shocks, too soft for the front and wheelin, too bouncy. But, you really should have been able to address all these issues before you bought it. For more of my information follow my sig. But there are also a ton of discusions about it on this board too.

 

[Xplodor]

They came with the kit. Do they even make RS9000's for our truck? Will I have to order it for a 98+ 4WD Ranger w/ a 5" Lift?

 

[taxx]

Originally posted by Xplodor
They came with the kit. Do they even make RS9000's for our truck? Will I have to order it for a 98+ 4WD Ranger w/ a 5" Lift?

I would get the stock length shocks and weld longer posts on the bottom mount. With the lift your travel did not change. I bought two to do this with, but have since decided to wait and do a coilover. The stock length RS9000 may be up for sale soon, we'll see.

 

[Xplodor]

To clear things up on my opinion, here's the thing. Your right about the clearance, but with my particular Explorer, I did the lift and a body lift and 35's still didn't fit (yet). That is why, in my opinion, for optimal use, be sure to run 35's with this lift, or you might as well save the money and do a TT w/ 3" body lift.

Also, I use to own a J##P. I know this is no CJ, BUT I'm all about potencial. The potential of the X is benchmarked by Rick. That is what the Explorer is capable of doing with the right knowledge, time, and lots of $$$. Now depending on what each individual wants out of their truck, will be a deciding factor on whether or not this lift will work for them. I'm happy with it, and will probably be happier once the 35s are on, but I'm not happy with the TBars, the Sway bar links, and the shocks that came with the kit. That is why I posted my post, to make other consumers awar of these problems before they buy.

Even with this lift on now, I'm thinking about doing a SAS (don'tk now how it will work with rack and pinion steering). That way I can acheive FULL potential of the Explorer.

Thank you all for your advice and thoughts. Everyone always helpful, and your opinions are always welcome even if they do not agree with mine. Different people like different things.

 

[taxx]

I wasn't trying to flame you. Sorry if it came out that way. I do agree with you on the swaybar links and the shocks. i actually tried to get the kit without the shocks, but they won't do it. I don't know what they were smokin when they designed those sway bar links! I guess I should voice my opinion on those links to the R&D department too so maybe they will change it in the future. At the time without doing a SAS which would be expensive and a lot of fabrication there was nothing you could do about the t-bars. I wouldn't mind a SAS if it wasn't a daily driver, but I don't think it would be as safe on the highway. When I get a seco0nd ride, then maybe. For now my solution to the t-bars is a coil-over. Besides its fun disproving people that think an IFS can't wheel with the big dogs! (sort of like splats 2x4 offroad machine). Look at some of the pics of what GJarrett does with his with a BL and TT/Shackles. it isn't all about the lift.

As for 35s are they still rubbing in the front? I am convinced I can get them on and I don't have the BL. But I have already done trimming and hammer wacking. For $230 try some Perry's Fiberglass fenders.

 

[Xplodor]

You are right and have a good point. If you can figuer out a way to ditch the T-Bars, then I'd hold off on a SAS. Is there anyway I can help? I'm all for getting rid of the T-Bars.

 

[RPheezy]

Hey Guys, I've been reading all of the posts about the Superlift kit, especially the ones from Taxx. Sounds like the lift is a good kit except with a few minor flaws with the front sway bars being the biggest issue. How bad are these sway bars? Can you still 4wheel well with them? Do they have to be replaced? I won't be installing mine but rather having it installed. Just want to know what to look out for and want to seem educated when speaking with the installers.

Thanks,
Raphael

 

[taxx]

Originally posted by the R
Hey Guys, I've been reading all of the posts about the Superlift kit, especially the ones from Taxx. Sounds like the lift is a good kit except with a few minor flaws with the front sway bars being the biggest issue. How bad are these sway bars? Can you still 4wheel well with them? Do they have to be replaced? I won't be installing mine but rather having it installed. Just want to know what to look out for and want to seem educated when speaking with the installers.

Thanks,
Raphael

You don't want the links connected when you wheel anyway. It is more a concern on the road. They clank and just don't give you the stability of a good poly bushing swaybar link. I would just ask the shop installing it to use their best judgement and maybe make you some different ones. Tell them of your concerns and see what they will work out. Heck print this off and take it to them They only cost me about $10 - $20 each. Good Luck

 

[BonesDT]

guys, call R&D and get those changes! only 4 more weeks till i order my superlift.

xplodor, now your signature says "superlift 5.5". im guessing that means you did a 4" plus TT (and either shackles or SOA in the rear)??? so your saying with a total of 8.5" the 35's didnt fit?

i cant wait to see pics and write ups! id like to see what the 33's looked like so please take some pics before changing, thanks!

BTW, how much did you pay for the lift?

 

[Xplodor]

Dave, can you post the picts of my truck if you are an elite member, if not I will join tomorrow and post them tomorrow. If some of you want pictures NOW, then email me at xplodor01@aol.com

I will call R & D tomorrow. I picked up the kit at wholesale since I own/started a off road Parts company here in Riverside called 4Play Offroad. If you want I can get you a quote. Where do you live? Please email me your specs at ron@4playoffroad.net. Also note that the driveshaft is on back order because superlift has not had them built yet. I did not require a new front driveshaft though (yet).

The 35" Xterrains I think are TRUE 35"s, so with the factory molding I have on my X (i have the XLT Sport Group Package w/tow package) they were rubbing on the rear FRONT fender and nurf bar. Easy fix to trim the fender and cut the end off the nerf bar, or take the ends off. The rear rubbed on both sides because the factory trim. If you do not have the trim, you will be fine in rear when the truck tucks.

Yeah, I kept the Warrior Shackles so I had to do a TT up front. I think it's done a little too much in anticipation to the 35s so I'm going to have them back it off a little (It looks like a prerunner almost) I will probably do a SOA with stock springs soon and revolver shackles for the rear.

DO NOT go with the 3" body lift. I only did it because I wanted to fit the 35s. If you will not be running true 35s then don't do the 3" body lift. Even if you are running true 35's you will probably have to do some minor trimming anyway, so it's better to keep the low center of gravity and go with a 2" max. The 2" BL is a lot easier, plus running a 3" BL with 33" tires just doesn't look right. All this gap made my 33s look small on the truck, but they aren't staying on long anyway. ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY XTERRAINS??? They only have like 1500K on them.

ALSO, with the 3" body lift you will have to address the rear bumper, and with the 3" lift a new e-brake bracket needs to be fabbed. That's why I suggest staying away from it. Also, I had to remove the bottom half of my fan shroud.

Is anyone else having any shimming while driving? My steering wheel moves back and forth alittle bit, is it normal with 33s?

 

[taxx]

yeah I will post them. I would be carefull wheelin with the stock front shaft. A guy aroung here grenaded his front diff cause too much angle, even with an aftermarket shaft. For the price of the Superlift shaft you can have one made and have hte rear lengthened, sports need this.

 

[taxx]

again

 

[taxx]

last one

 

[Xplodor]

Thanks Dave, I owe you!

 

[Alec]

Looks good, but 35's would look better

I have at 2.5" TT, add-a-leaf, and shackles and fit 33's:

I've already trimmed a bunch in the front, and still have to do more; but if I can do that, I think you can definately fit those 35's!

 

[Yomie]

looks good...makes me jealous

my 33's won't come in till thurs

 

[soupbone]

Hey are those 15x10 or 15x8 on your truck?

Thinking of getting Interco trxus 34x12.50-15 for $150ea when i do the RCD lift.