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It didn't appear to be clogged. Looked the same as the other 5. When I get the spare time, I'll hook it up to 12v and see if it clicks. This one has spent lots of time sitting lately, getting new parts; cat-back, front end work, etc. That might have had something to do with the injector...

The new ball joint is easier to install if you leave it in the freezer for a few hours beforehand. Also wipe a dab of anti-seize around the outside of the ball joint.

The fuel pressure dampener is located on the fuel rail, not on the firewall. Maybe that's something else that you're referring to...???

The PCM uses an adaptive learning strategy for adjusting to different drivers, and I'm pretty sure it's ongoing. Seems I remember reading somewhere that it uses the previous dozen or so start cycles, but not sure of that....?

Left side is the driver's side, (viewed from behind the wheel). Good luck with the work.

Since that's an OHV engine, I suspect that fuel line part is obsolete. Check to see what numbers are on the rubber repaired hose. If it's SAE 30R7, you should replace it with a 30R9 rating or higher, with the proper sized fuel injection hose clamps.

Not sure about this, but it might be a 'fail safe' mode to protect you from being startled by a previous driver cranking the volume wide open and leaving it...

Problem Solved! Finally got this puppy back together today. I replaced all 6 injectors with brand new Motorcrafts, along with a new fuel rail gasket and new plenum gaskets. It runs smooth as silk now. Problem was sticking #3 injector. Figured I might as well replace them all since they...

I agree Jman's problem is most likely a bad fuel pump. I chased the same symptoms last winter with an 04 Ranger, which was indeed the pump. After cutting the pump open, I found the brushes had worn valleys in the commutator which gave a poor electrical contact. This truck had only 60K...

Quite a mystery here. I took another look at my coil, and there's a metal band around the circumference of the pack, which appears to have an electrical contact with the metal strip on the plenum, which in turn connects to the rear manifold stud. The metal band is near the center of the...

I had to remove the coil pack for another reason, and remembered this post. I happened to notice a strip of metal on the intake plenum that's obviously intended to ground the coil pack to the rear intake bolt. There's nothing to reference this ground in any of my wiring schematics, but it's...

Another trick is to heat the nut, and touch the threads with a candle end, letting the wax wick into the threads. The nut will then loosen as if by magic...

Mxrobins, are you trying to gain access to remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, you only need to remove the EGR pipe, which is held onto the valve with 2 bolts plus another bolt shared with the oil dipstick tube.

Sounds like the new relay fixed it. Good job. I mentioned the fuel pump brushes because of a fuel pump failure on a Ranger last winter. It had the same symptoms as yours, and after changing the relay and inertia switch, finally installed a new fuel pump to fix it. Good tip.

How many miles are on the vehicle? Even though the trouble seems to be in the relay, it still could be worn brushes in the fuel pump itself...

I think you're right, JC & KPT. The secondary (high voltage)circuit completes through the 2 spark plugs and coils. The primary (12v) circuit completes through the single power wire and the three grounding wires from the PCM. If the coil(s) were grounded any other way they would be shorted...

Well....sort of. In the good old days of carbs you could install a distributor 1 tooth off (of the cam gear), and that would throw the firing order off. You could then compensate by rewiring the distributor plug wires. Same thing applies to distributors with fuel injection; with those the...

Not sure on a 2013, but on earlier models it was in the end of the dash, visible with the door open...

As to the 3.0, they are supposed to be a very durable engine. One common problem is the cam synchonizer which can grenade the engine if it seizes up. Usually gives ample warning though, with a squealing noise. The number 6 intake runner is very close to the PCV valve port. Don't know...

Since Buddha's ride is (I assume) a 1994, he might not have a CEL triggered by a misfire. But I agree with Turdle about the plugs and wires being the culprits. Check to see if the wires are laying on the exhaust manifolds. Also clean off the top of the coil pack. When the engine is under...

Thanks for the testing tips Arco777. I had considered a noid light test. I'm almost positive the injector is stuck closed because there's no fuel or fuel odor on the plug after removal. The coil pack is in the way of reaching the injector plug and wiring, so instead of wasting any more time...

It's located on the inside of the frame rail near where the driver sits. Your lean codes are probably caused by faulty plenum gaskets though...

The EE rear bars are worth every penny. I have one on both my Sports, with upgraded poly bushings on the front. They really do improve the handling, keeping the truck level through turns with no leaning. It improves safety too, IMHO.

Cool engine! Is that going in another Sport?

I suspect the difference is in the pump connectors, whether they are wide or narrow. The Bosch pump I bought was supposedly a direct plug-in for my 2000, but the box contained the 'wrong' pump but included the adapter wiring to make it correct. I suspect Bosch is now packing the wiring...

It's called a 'Check Gage' because when it's lit you get to write a check...:D

2000 Sport, 4.0 ohv, 5R55E, 151K miles. It ran like a champ all day, parked it for a couple hours in the driveway, then decided to put it in the garage for the night. Immediately upon startup, it had a dead miss, so I backed it in the garage and started checking. It showed a pending P0303...

I wonder if PATS could be bypassed through modification of this PATS control assembly?

I agree; probably the only difference in the pumps is the part number. It's best to replace the 2 internal hoses with 30R9 rated rubber. It's much stronger than the more common 30R7. The numbers will be printed on the hose. The pump comes with 30R9, but it's not long enough to cut and...

I too installed the Bosch in my 2000 last July. Looks like a good pump.

Check where the hose connects to the radiator and the expansion tank. If the hose loses vacuum the system won't pull coolant back into the tank. A couple of mini hose clamps on the hose ends might help.

Sounds like you may need to replace the lighter socket. They're very inexpensive and easy to change out; two wires on the back, power and ground. Disconnect the battery, remove two screws on the bottom of the bezel and pull/pry straight back on the bezel to access the lighter plug.

On the driver's (left) side, the threaded part of the starwheel assembly goes toward the front of the vehicle. Don't remember for certain about the passenger side, but I think the threaded part goes to the rear. That would make it on the left hand side of the mechanic working on the...

If you've got 35-40 psi, that should be good enough to run. I suspect, as you say, you now have ice in the line constricting the fuel flow. When I changed my fuel filter, there seemed to be some water present, so that must be the low point in the system. You could try putting a drop cord...

Look inside the overflow tank while the engine is warmed up and idleing, and check for bubbles. If you do see bubbles, it's either from a cracked head or failed headgasket. More likely the headgasket (in a 2000).

Koda, I suggest you also replace the rubber line running from the regulator up to the hard line. Mine had a split that was hardly noticible, and would have soon failed had I not noticed it. Use a 30R9 type on both soft lines, not the 30R7 the parts stores might try to sell you. You can...

Bump Bump to the top in hopes someone knows more. A Ford NGS scan tool is needed to flash the PCM, and most larger repair shops should have them. There might be other methods, I don't know...maybe the folks in the tuning section here will have more info...?

I believe you've already rewired the coil to PCM wiring that fixed the melting coil? (The 3 coil trigger wires, tan/wht, tan/org, and tan/blu terminate on PCM pins 26, 52, and 78 in that order.) BTW, the crank position sensor terminates on pins 21 and 22 of the PCM, with wire colors of dk...

This link is for a different engine, but the basics are the same. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-to-test-the-crankshaft-position-sensor-2#2

As Koda said, probably the seat belt warning. There's electrical plugs and wiring behind the driver's seat that might be unplugged or loose. A kid in the back seat can kick lots of things loose back there...