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'94explorer sport, 2wd, auto xmission edit: changed the .png to .jpg and another server, as suggested. center console (2 phillips screws in large compartment behind exposed rectange); long rectangle step panel (2 phillips, 2 clips underneath): right panel, removed: 1 phillips...

yes, sticking thermostat... hey, when you remove the radiator cap, is it green or gunky? put some cleaner through the cooling system, and see if it doesn't stop the sticking.

hey there. if you hear a vacuum sound near the 'octopus', then check that all the hoses are connected. feel the ends of the hoses, or look, and see if there's fluid or wetness. if so, that's transmission fluid from a break in the modulator valve. does your transmission need fluid? check that...

old starter new starter solenoid since starter didn't work, replaced solenoid. starter now spins on ignition, but only engages the flywheel after many starts. my question is, will installing new brushes cause the starter to engage completely? thank you, cogs

thx for the quick response... my son & his friend are going to take a look at it. i'm at work, so i'll let you know how it goes.

on the vacuum ports near the firewall, i have on all the hoses, except the front right one. it's sucking in air, and i don't know where the other end of a hose(have to get one) should go. so the question is where does the opposite end of the front right vacuum port lead to? i have to fix to get...

now i have semi-metallic pads. on the clips to the inside pad: 1. how many are there supposed to be? 2. if only one, does it go on the bottom? 3. which direction does the rounded side go, pointed outside or inside? every now and then i'll find them missing when i replace the pads, because...

the piston probably is caught forward at breaking, and then when you let off the pressure, it takes time for the piston to finally slip back into place, since it's lubricated. proves that either the line still has pressure that's slowly returning through a bent hose, or that the caliper piston...

what would cause too much voltage to get to the maf? is it like too powerful an alternator, or the tensioner too tight?

could you resend, i didn't receive an email: tigerfish777@gmail.com thank you again!

i'd replace the caliper, because the piston probably's stuck. i'm about to change over to semi-metallic pads, as i'm still having trouble with pulsation, even after caliper/hose replacement. let me know how your brakes are going, as i have a 94 sport

94 sport 2wd: of course do all the steps in the other helpful posts. i couldn't find the passenger side plug, so i just took out the 20amp fuel fuse on the passenger side box. i started the engine a couple of times, then unscrewed my gas cap until i was done. there was no pressure, just lots of...

check your idler pulley bolt for tightness, while you're at it. also, what is the spec for tensioner adjustment?

thank you, i'll try semi-metallic... i'm slowly learning to think more critically when it comes to mechanics

yes, more than likely not getting good power. if your headlights and/or gauge lights are dim, and/or your signal is slow, and/or your blower motor decreased; or if they increase and decrease with speed, your battery may be suspect. also, check connector.

changing mine this weekend, will let you know my progress. the pic really helps! i understand the physics, and thanks for the carb cleaner tip.

since something may have too much pressure on it, make sure the transmission fluid and filter is new, and inspect the tensioner and idler pullies, esp the nut on the idler is tight, and the tensioner housing intact.

yes, i'm using ceramic pads. the pins aren't sticking, i think, because i always put a little grease on them (they're new). i have not changed the drums. ah, i'm mad that i can not 'pin' down the problem easily. going to look at the drums this weekend. seems like the front end would be the...

battery grease will stop the white acid for awhile. the acid will eat into your cable, literally rotting it off. then you'll have to splice the cable with a new one, like they said. so keep them clean. but for your immediate problem, it's probably your positive cable, or the solenoid, esp if you...

may i have a diagram for: tigerfish777@gmail.com thank you!!

this is what i've done: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216210&highlight=cogs my brakes pulse when braking only. pretty much replaced everything on brake system, and just replaced the last caliper on the passenger side. in the link given, they also suggested the master...

hey, finally spent some money on parts. replaced passenger brake hose, rotor, and pads on both sides. vibration disappeared completely. i want to get my hopes up, but waiting to see if rotor warps. if it doesn't, it was the hose i replaced. if it does, probably needs another caliper, or last...

johnj, i cannot thank you enough for pointing me in the right direction. the stress caused by this to me and my wife while being jarred every breaking was quite annoying after some time. plus, knowing the danger of a bad breaking system. i think you're right, cause a mechanic said my rotor was...

continued troubleshooting: torqued both front wheels' nut to specs. passenger side front: rotor dragging with caliper on. abs sensor full of steel splinters. reluctor has line where sensor rides. cleaned off sensor. bent backing plate away from rotor. the back brake pad was a little thin, and...

speaking of wheel bearings, what tightness, like, how much to turn the nut that holds the rotor on? and, on the inside bearing, what else can you do, but put the plate on? i ask this, cause i believe, as you said, something is causing misaligned rotation of the rotor. also, when i said spindle...

hi, new here: 1994explorer; when i brake, i am seriously vibrated until i stop, and near the end of the stop, the abs turns on and grabs. what i've done about it: on driver's side front wheel: replaced three rotors; changed caliper and brake hose; changed a few brake pads and sliding pins; new...