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I hate dead threads with no answers......so what did you end up doing?

I will rebuild anything over just crossing my fingers on a used part, especially something that's a PITA to remove like a tranny. I have rebuilt my AOD-E in my Mustang and I had the guy upgrade it to 4R70W internals and added extra clutch discs and more mods then I care to remember. All...

Are you using a FD with one ujoint at the transfer case? I know some people get away with one but I really like double cardan drive shafts like the early first gen EX had. My double cardan is 100% smooth and the double cardans that are under my lifted 79 bronco work quiet and smooth and...

You were right, all my window switches now work...lol The white words are long gone and I never really thought about that being the window lock button. Now it seems all I need is to look into the passenger side door lock button. It still does not work. This is what I get for driving a...

I will look, Thanks.

My 98 4 door has always had the problem of the right front and both rear doors will not raise or lower there windows. The ''master'' switch in the drivers door will lock the doors and control all the windows. I can fab, fix, or rebuild about anything but electrical problems just make a fool out...

An open diff can not be converted to trac loc. You need to swap carriers and at that point you might as well just swap the gears too.

Why do you need a coating? Stainless Steel is good enough for most guys. I also think that the poor fitment issues can be the reason nobody wants to make Explorer headers, they are tight on space and a PITA to install. But that's what we got a tight engine bay that's a PITA to work in.

My 4406 had a VSS some do not. Mine was out of a 97 F150 so maybe the early ones had a VSS.

Mine goes from 2H to 4H with the pull from one or two fingers and a nice push get it back into 2wd. To get it into 4L is another story.

Wait, If your asking how to bend steel, clamp it in a vise and slid a pipe over it and pull your guts out. I'd use my shop press to bend it right where I want. I would not use heat but you can but you will want to remove the knob.

why does it matter? The F150 boot covers the whole thing. Take the rod off, bend it cold or with heat then paint or not.

This is very true and I'll take it further. If the shocks are not designed to hold the weight of the vehicle then coil overs and air shocks are not the greatest way to level a vehicle. The mounts are not designed to hold the weight.

What D shafts did you use that you had to alter? For a stock front rear I used a EX gen1 double cardian (spelling?) and it fit fine. Rear is supposed to be a 5.4 4x4 Expedition. ( again fit fine for me) My shift knob does not hit the console but it is close. If I cared about it the way I'd...

If I'm not mistaken, reverse and third gear share the same clutch pack. If so then I'd put my money on the clutch being the culprit. How clean was the pan when you looked inside?

My Ex has a very noisy howl in the rear. Mine never really goes away but really kicks in at 45mph. If it makes noise all the time it's bearings, If it makes noise under light throttle most mechanics say this is a worn ring and pinion. This tells me that my bearings are shot and I probably...

Ford never made a SVT Cobra Explorer, it's just like the Mustang guys always swapping emblems. My buddy has the Lincoln version of a 3rd gen EX with a 32V motor so he put the snakes on the fenders....to each his own.

I'd start with new cables and see what that does. My 98 acted similar when I first got it and it was a bad battery ground wire.

IMHO a jack of any kind will be a PITA, it's just under 100 pounds just press it up in there. I say this because I'm more used to the cast iron 205 and 203 that are twice that heavy. My 4406 is a joy to remove and install. Jacks are a pain since the TC needs to be ****ed and you can't jack...

6'' sounds bout right to me.

My Mustang had a high pitched whine at 90 mph and with most noises it had a slight vibration when the noise started. Long story short, the factory Spicer u joints ford uses has thin plastic discs in the end of each bearing cap. These plastic discs with start getting chewed up for whatever...

Does yours have the sticker on it? I gave you the number of the correct one.

In this thread you can see the Part number sticker on my rear drive shaft. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=424333

I just realized I posted this in the 3rd gen thread and not the 2nd gen thread. Could a mod please move this?

We are getting a pretty good snow fall for this area anyway, and here is my EX snowed in as of 11am this morning. It's deceiving how much snow we had at 11am. It is a dry light snow and is drifting and blowing around. Halfway between my porch and the EX was up to my crotch. Any more...

Found it. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=429940

I'd really like to see Mike65s pictures as well but I can't. Could you just post a simple link please?

I just had a thought, what if you used a u bolt like a 9'' rear uses instead of the strap type retainer. I always liked the u bolt type better and if you can find one that fits you'd just drill out your threads and use the u bolt.

How did you get enough torque to do that? I can hardly get and wrench or socket on mine. If it broke from over tightening the rest of the bolt should come out easily with a easy out or maybe a left handed drill bit. If it broke because the threads are messed up or the bolt bottomed out on...

I can't wait to see what you come up with!

I think you mean 3/8-16, Ford V8 header bolts are 3/8 course thread.

1/4-20 is what you want.

My 98 has an aftermarket head unit and it turns off like yours. I forget for sure but I think the factory unit did say on till I opened the door.

Very simple, instead of running the radio off a keyed hot, run a constant hot wire and it will not turn off till you twist the knob or push the button. Kind of a PITA after awhile but that will do it.

From upgrading my 94 Mustang AODE to 4R70w internals I have learned that around 96 some of the electronic goodies in the trannys are different. When I did the upgrades I also installed a stand alone tranny controller and it needed the newer parts to work correctly.

Those are AM Auto Parts lights and they come with a 10 year warranty. I bought from them for my Mustang and they also look and work great.

I have never used a spreader so I can't comment on using one. To tap in the carrier you place the shims in the housing then you insert the carrier into the housing.

I wouldn't mind seeing pictures of how you mounted the fans and maybe the wiring.

WD-40 is a horrible product to use for that. It is better than nothing at all but that's about it. The best thing I have found for rusted bolts is PB Blaster but even some kerosene or ATF will work better then WD-40.

I have done at least 20 rears in my garage and I can tell you that carrier preload is more of a feel then a measurement. It's hard to tell over the internet to a beginner what feels right but I use a dead blow hammer/mallet to set the carrier back into the housing and if it falls in with a...