Search results

Welcome to the forum! I'd imagine the PTU seal is leaking and it's losing PTU fluid, but if just damp and not visibly dripping off, it might not need fixed right away. Have you ever replaced the PTU fluid? Many consider that a needed maintenance item, about every 30K mi, or sooner in a severe...

Welcome to the forum! You're right, not the correct place to post about vehicle issues, this forum is only for introductions as a new member. What does a bezel nut do? I saw some pics that look like just a nylon push-tab type nut, where the main things you need are the correct outer diameter...

I was referring to the fuel pump. The security system cannot disable the oil pump. I am doubtful that it is now not cranking due PATS because it did crank previously, using the same key I presume? Either way, if it has PATS, and PATS is preventing it from starting, then the slow blinking...

I have something similar on the left rear wheel well area but only 4 brake soft lines total on the vehicle, unless you are counting that one piece, as two lines. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1998,explorer,4.0l+v6+sohc,1304413,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+hose,1792

If the vehicle has an aftermarket anti-theft system that is preventing it from starting, then you must either reverse engineer how it works and fix it, or remove it from the vehicle and restore the original factory wire connections that it disrupted. However it is strange that it is now not...

^ My '98 does not have a rear center brake hose, is a hard line all the way across the axle.

Better to not try to figure out the "why" just yet, instead just treat it like any other vehicle that won't start. For example, if it is cranking good and fast, or if you have tried enough times that it needs the battery recharged, then you can measure battery voltage, but it seems there is no...

How did the mechanic determine that? You cannot deactivate the PATS security system, short of reflashing the PCM with a "tune" firmware that has deactivated it. Do you have the theft light that blinks slowly at all times, with no key in the ignition? If so, that is the same light that would...

Then you're getting spark and should consider the other things I mentioned.

Is "seems" an assumption or have you checked for pressure on the fuel rail and/or in a scan tool? Is there a theft or similar PATS security light on your dash, and does it flash regularly (slow) when the vehicle is off, but then flash rapidly when you attempt to start it? I don't know what...

You made an account in fall '22. Is that when you acquired the vehicle and were the brakes like that, from then until your (recent?) bleeding of them? Were you just flushing old fluid or was there another reason for the bleeding? A lot can happen to a vehicle after this many years, do you...

Welcome to the forum! Where is Golden? Are you human? :)

I'd just assume the battery is very low after 2 months, and bring a charger, spare battery, or jump vehicle and cables with me for the next try.

You list a '98 but posted in a 2002-05 subforum, which is it? I can't state with 100% certainty that a 3rd gen '02-05 behaves the same way, but on 2nd gen, the switch doesn't measure fluid level but rather pressure when the brake pedal is pushed, it is a simple pressure switch on the master...

After I replaced my hard lines, soft hoses and 3 out of 4 calipers, I had mushy brakes. I carefully drove it a while, got ABS to activate a few times on a gravel lot, bled again and still a bit mushy, but drove just a little more and it got firmer, just as firm as before I touched anything...

OH, well... I'd still want to inspect it before purchase, especially for rust. A lot can go wrong in 21 yrs., especially after it changes hands and winds up at an auction. It's even the little things, that one is filthy inside and looks like it was put away wet (rusty driver's seat leg pic)...

... or a bad battery ground

Have you tried disconnecting the battery and not charging it, just waiting a minute and hooking it back up? What is the battery voltage, disconnected from the vehicle but not charged yet? What is the battery voltage after charged, if you wait around 10 mins after disconnected from the charger...

Okay... but important information seems missing. Now that you found the location of the antenna, was there something wrong with it, were you able to improve the fob range and if so, how? Also that manual site you mentioned, what format was the manual in? I've read that some of theirs are...

Have you seen this? https://charm.li/Ford%20Truck/2006/Explorer%204WD%20V8-4.6L%20VIN%208/

I hope those are major brand fuses. Generic Chinese fuses tend to have very bad accuracy and take a lot more than their rated current to blow.

You're talking about a multi-function switch like found on 2nd gen explorers? I took apart the one on my '98, relubed it and put it back into service, but it didn't have that issue, rather the turn signals were getting erratic. If it is just gunked up with hardened grease, it may help to...

Welcome to the forum! See my post (and the prior posts) in this topic: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/leaf-spring-u-bolts.471658/post-3849794 If they're really rusty, you may want an angle grinder to cut the bolts off. I first tried a bimetallic sawzall blade and it shredded the...

lol! How can we possibly answer that? No amount of pictures can equal having and inspecting it. I'm leaning towards no, not worth it because of the mileage, but if you have a will to own this generation explorer, you could put a new engine and/or transmission in as needed, but this is a...

Copper Nickel brake line is really easy to work with, can be bent by hand unless you need a tight bend radius. It is softer and if the flare is near but not quite perfect, this also helps it to conform and seal when the nut is tightened down. I haven't done it both ways so I can't really...

The clips are plastic (nylon?) and mine were fine, just a matter of contorting yourself to get under the vehicle, but not for the driver's side front, that one is easy. I can't speak for pre-bent stainless line as mine was all done with bulk copper nickel except the first fault across the back...

That amazon kit looks... fun... trying to figure out what goes where. I mean that even if the front passenger wheel run is two pieces, there's still an extra piece? Did they break up the front to rear line into two pieces too? I recall running that line from front to the rear with bulk line...

How bad and where is it cracked? I would be tempted to just rough up the surface around and past the cracked area with sandpaper, get some fiberglass cloth and layer it on with epoxy to seal it... OR the hose you used might be just fine, nothing more needed, or see if there are any on junkyard...

Yes, I also get around 12 MPG in town with my '98.

In addition to the voltage test that CI proposed, I'd also measure resistance between the bulb socket ground and chassis ground in case it has a bad ground. A bad (high resistance) ground can still look like 12V with no load (bulb) in the socket. You could also measure resistance between the...

Yes but he presumably had the other issue that the 2.xL EBs are prone to, cylinder water jacket leak.

Yours being an '18, was the 2.3L EB, correct?

IDK the significance of the 8V, but you do need the brake input to the PCM because it uses that to disengage the torque converter lockup so the engine doesn't stall when braking.

Wow, I'm surprised that they are going for that much from junkyards, but I checked on car-part.com and also see several entries around a $950 price point, but some are lower, you might call a few and see if they are fully intact if not noted well on the listing: Search...

I wonder if any junkyards have the whole assembly, cheaper... since what i found on Amazon was still $226 (minus 15% promo code for the one I saw): https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Compatible-Explorer-Headlight-Lampshades/dp/B0D9GRY219?tag=seriouexplor-20 I don't recall reading of anyone doing...

Showing a picture of a vehicle and making a claim, is not a specific product claiming to be designed for LED drop-ins, and as I already mentioned, it is literally impossible for universal compatibility because it depends on the exact placement, #, and beam angle of every LED on the retrofit...

Prove it? Show us these "aftermarket headlight housings that are designed to house LEDs" Many of us would like a properly designed housing for that. It would be great news if you found one... BUT, it would only be designed for a specific LED bulb, there is no such thing as a universal housing...

That is literally impossible, if you perceived any benefit to using them. If the bulbs had the exact same beam pattern as the factory bulbs, and the exact same aim, and brightness too, you wouldn't be able to see as well as using the factory bulbs, because the human eye cannot interpret detail...

Factory LED headlights with integrated assemblies are legal, but drop-in LED retrofit bulbs are not legal for use on US public roads. An incandescent reflector is not designed for the different beam pattern produced by LEDs. There's plenty of info out there if you choose to research rather...

Please don't. That's not legal for public roads and will blind other drivers. Notice that no major brand bulb manufacturers make them. Incandescent headlight housings do not produce the right beam pattern for LED retrofit bulbs and the problem is compounded by the excessively cold color...