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It will be a gradual decay, because there are a good # still out there in service, not a lot but more than 33 and as each eventually gets taken off the road and put in the junkyard, a new donor exists. The unfortunate part is some will be crushed right away.

Where does the other end of the hose go? At first I was thinking it's an EVAP hose to the purge valve, but have reconsidered that, am not comfortable assuming that till I know where the other end goes, so until then, ignore the rest of this post. :) You didn't mention which engine you have...

There's no question that bald tires will cause a problem with traction in wet weather. Note that this toe link issue won't cause much if any wear to your front tires, though if you rotate your tires regularly, then of course the wear gets moved to the front. When I got the recalled rear toe...

Did you ever measure the one you have? There might be the possibility of finding one for a different vehicle that would work. For example here are a couple, will either of them work? IDK without measurements...

Also in your profile instead of what I see which is just Trim Level: "Ford Explorer PIU." :)

Did you try clearing the code with a scan tool, and then it came back?

It would be good to list your model year PIU. Do Canadian PIUs inherit the US (or even California?) emissions standards, so there is an expectation that things like CATS are the same? Is it cheaper to import parts to Canada (including shipping charges), vs paying what dealers in Canada charge?

Best guess is it looks like it might have changed ownership (?) and renamed to Apple Ford, and changed the domain name, invalidating all previous links. Facebook post about the change. Is this the part that you linked to previously...

The new module should be compatible with only the last two digits different.

Since warranty was mentioned, it made me wonder about an extended warranty.

I doubt you're more likely to find a radiator hose that would work, instead of a filler tube hose for another vehicle. Plus most radiator hoses are not fuel rated. The hose you pulled is marked NBR, nitrile butadiene (synthetic) rubber, which is specifically good at gasoline resistance, while...

Can you tell what about them is making noise? The warranty may not cover the strut cylinder itself if considered a wear item, but I am not so sure about the spring, spring seat, upper mount bearing, and bumper, some of which can be argued are suspension parts separate from the strut, that if...

One other bit of info I found was that the filler hose appears to have changed for 2013 and up, and that part is a straight hose that won't work: DA8Z9047A The 2012 hose does not appear to exist as a separate part #. I'm starting to wonder if the metal filler neck part # is supposed to come...

If a dealer can't help, then get back to basics... 1) Inner diameter in inches - check both ends, but account for any stretching when it was installed. 2) Length of short end after the 90'-ish bend 3) Length of longer end after the 90'-ish bend 4) What is the approx. degrees of the...

No, I had hopes for 55-8125 hose but got no search hits on that. There are other hose shapes for other vehicles with 55-8125 on them.

I see no pic?

Previously I'd checked a Ford parts dealer 'site and they don't even picture the hose or give a part #. Even so you might call a local dealer to see what they say... they should have some kind of solution considering 5th gen went through '19 so there should (have been) parts support for...

Your pictured hose has a far greater bend than the diagram I posted suggests! The smaller bend shouldn't be a problem (just a little grunt sound when installing it ;) ) but the larger is too much. Where is the larger bend, about where #4 is in the pic or #5? Some of those hoses I linked on...

The diagram I have for a '14, makes it look like that's just a straight piece of hose. Is it the same for yours? If so, I'd get the diameters at both ends and see if some place like Rock Auto has something that'll fit. They have a few with bends as well. Don't forget clamps if they're rusted...

If the battery is low, it might have just enough voltage to send a signal, especially if it only takes a short press to set off the alarm but a longer one to deactivate it, so once it has used the power to do that, suffers from a voltage depression. It would be good to measure the battery...

I'd look around (the engine bay) to see what happened there, where /why the wires and connector aren't present. Maybe these attachments will help.

Lack of dielectric grease shouldn't cause this. It's not really even needed based on the design of the circuit, though I could accept putting some on the gasket to make it more water resistant. What are the supposed benefits of the dielectric grease besides as a gasket lube? I can't think of...

I guess I've been lucky because I haven't had problems with reman calipers that I put on my '98. I got a couple Cardone on amazon (might check there, if you have prime they might get it to you in a day or two depending on location, where is CNY?), and on Rock Auto. I don't have to daily drive...

I'd wonder if the fob switch is contaminated or just failing. I assume you've tried a fresh battery.

Rock Auto has some Cardone. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2008,explorer,4.6l+v8,1441671,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704

The 2nd link I posted may be about as good as it gets, shows the 3 vapor system hoses, one from intake to purge valve, one from purge valve to vapor canister, and one from vapor canister to gas tank as far as I can tell from their terrible drawings... so my best guess is that's part # 1L2Z-9K318-AA

That looks like your vapor canister purge valve. This "might" be it... but see all related parts on the 2nd link too...

Welcome to the forum! If it's just a piece of standard, round hose, not needing to be molded into a special shape to fit, then just get a bulk piece of hose at an auto parts store. They usually sell hose by the foot, though you could call ahead to see if they have the right inner diameter...

If there is no pressure remaining and it still won't release, then the pad is binding in the caliper slide rail. I suppose there is a small chance that the caliper piston is seizing but it seems less likely, especially on 2 different calipers. The options are then to file a little off the pad...

An LED drop-in conversion is illegal. If that's what you did, please put it back to stock. Thanks.

Yes they salt the roads here, even if it doesn't end up snowing! Rust will do in my '98 whether it's due to catastrophic failure or I just get tired of dealing with it and sell it. Fortunately I haven't found any holes in the frame yet. I only recall taking two pieces off, a crossmember, and...

I don't understand what you are stating. If you are replacing the front to rear hard line, and replacing that *double* hose part it connects to, then what fitting are you trying to avoid damaging? Do replace that left rear hose where the hard line connects, it's not an expensive part and is...

Also see this post by JoeTX: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/headlight-switch-replacement.143556/post-3552757 He labeled it as multi-function switch, which is a specific different thing, the turn signal level assembly on the steering column, but it looks like the picture is really...

I don't have a single diagram that shows all headlight switch connections, but I do have 3 separate diagrams showing most of them. If you want the complete diagrams these came from, they are linked in my sig as 2nd gen wiring diagrams. Within those, these pics came from the following PDF file...

^ I have to wonder if something is bent or misaligned? I assume you lubed them.

You don't have to disconnect the battery, tho' some people would tell you to do that any time anything electrical is touched.

Try to find a wiring diagram. There are a couple online sites linked in 2nd line of my sig below. This might be it: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/fuel-pump-wiring-diagram.466587/post-3652954 As far as the wire colors changing, I'd check for bulk connectors under the hood, near...

Is it the mechanical portion or the switch plunger itself that is sticking? If the plunger then I'd try dry silicone spray. I'd try lubing it before replacement, but first I would try to get some of the muck off, with a paint brush or compressed air. Next I'd try something meant for...

If the lower arm is at end of travel, then move the whole assembly upwards. Is the upper BJ still in the knuckle? I might have loosened if not completely pushed the axle shaft out of the hubs... wish I could remember more. Have you looked for youtube videos? There's bound to be one or more...

I didn't have any trouble getting my lower BJs out of the knuckle without taking the LCA loose at the bolts. I think I just put some penetrant on, not just the nut but knuckle area, let that soak a few hours, loosened the nut but left it on flush with the end thread of the BJ stud, then hit it...