Separating lower ball joints

[1998Exp]

Encountered an interesting challenge on my '98 AWD when separating the ball joint on the lower control arm from the knuckle. I just couldn't push the arm far enough from the knuckle and the last couple threads on the ball joint wouldn't come out of the hole in the knuckle. Seems that the reason is insufficient clearance between the LCA and the rubber boot on the driveshaft. I didn't want to force things too hard, for fear of damaging the shaft. So just removed the two bolts from the bushings and dropped the arm down (of course, that requires removing the torsion bar first). Has anyone seen this problem before?

 

[J_C]

I didn't have any trouble getting my lower BJs out of the knuckle without taking the LCA loose at the bolts. I think I just put some penetrant on, not just the nut but knuckle area, let that soak a few hours, loosened the nut but left it on flush with the end thread of the BJ stud, then hit it with a big hammer. I knew my lower BJs were shot. The purpose was to replace them, so didn't care about shock damage using a hammer.

I'm not quite clear on where your clearance issue is coming from, and don't remember the finer details of getting it out. If it's that close, what if you just hit upwards on the upper control arm to move the whole knuckle up, if hitting the LCA won't make it go down that little bit more? Maybe I used a pry bar, but nothing extreme, my lower BJs replacement was very uneventful. The upper BJs on mine didn't want to come out till I put a chisel in the slit in the back of the knuckle.

 

[1998Exp]

I didn't have any trouble getting my lower BJs out of the knuckle without taking the LCA loose at the bolts. I think I just put some penetrant on, let that soak a few hours, then hit it with a big hammer. I knew my lower BJs were shot. The purpose was to replace them, so didn't care about shock damage using a hammer.

Yes, I did spray penetrant. Separating the cone wasn't the problem; the arm just wouldn't move far enough from the knuckle to let the last couple threads to clear.

 

[J_C]

If the lower arm is at end of travel, then move the whole assembly upwards. Is the upper BJ still in the knuckle?

I might have loosened if not completely pushed the axle shaft out of the hubs... wish I could remember more. Have you looked for youtube videos? There's bound to be one or more for some 2nd gen model year.

 

[410Fortune]

I have done 100 ball joints on these never encountered this

The cv axle should not be there if you are replacing ball joints
It should already be removed

 

[1998Exp]

I have done 100 ball joints on these never encountered this

The cv axle should not be there if you are replacing ball joints
It should already be removed

Thanks! That's what I was guessing. Live and learn...

 

[410Fortune]

Okay just making sure you got it taken care of! The lbj on these can be a ***** to separate. I use a pickle fork driven from the front and seated alol the way to the stud.. I stack another fork on top of it on top of it. Slam home with a 5 or 8 lb sledge it will drop
Then the lbj is removed from the lca with a ball peen hammer…
Smack that sucker right square in the middle and they drop right out
Pb blaster and some emery cloth to the mating surface, wipe clean. Anti seize on the outside of new lbj and press it in. The press must be setup straight to the control arm. Sometimes this requires a shim, a good wrench will do