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It's a smog part. I think it was only on 1993 and 1994 models. My 1994 has it, but my Dad's 1991 didn't. If I wasn't still in California I would remove the heat exchanger and hose and plug the vacuum line. I don't think it serves any real purpose in a warmer climate. When I did my solid front...

There shouldn't be an air inlet connected to the exhaust. I think what you saw is part of the smog equipment. It's a air pre-heater that pulls hot air from around the exhaust through the engine air intake. I think what you did was get water into your air intake, hydrolocking the engine. Pull...

I have a little space saver project to get started. I have accumulated a few hundred DVD's that I watch in the RV in the evenings. Yes. I'm a little old-school when it comes to entertainment. The DVD's take up a lot of space. I bought a few DVD sleeve books for the movies. Most of the...

The overheating engine could be as simple as a bad fan clutch or water pump. It be a easy fix. The transmission on the other hand, sounds like it's a goner. At this point it depends on what you want to do with it.

I wouldn't go to a dealer for routine maintenance like brakes. Brake pads can be replaced by any shop, it's a simple job. Rotors that don't have any pulse or shudder, or are otherwise undamaged, don't even need to be resurfaced. They can be scuffed with a scotchbrite pad or emery cloth.

If there is no noticeable issues with ride quality, wandering, tire wear, etc., why change the shocks? Shocks are a wear item, not a maintenance item.

I regret not buying a 1929 Model A Coupe that was being sold out of a closing private railroad museum a few years ago. It had been displayed inside for 40 years, original tan paint with black fenders. All original except the bench seat had been recovered. Even had the rumble seat. They sold it...

I always wanted a show car when I was younger, and have owned a few higher end sports cars that I kept immaculate. What I learned was that I spent so much time and effort worrying about the car, that it took the fun out of ownership. I'm still planning on having a few more vehicles, like a...

There are some clean Sport Tracs in Northern Arizona, Kingman area. I left notes and asked the owners but nobody's selling.

I still have the Ranger at my house as they haven't sold the BMW yet. I drive it weekly and have grown fond of that little truck. It's simple, comfortable and easy to park in narrow spaced parking lots. Been driving it to most of my outings just for ease of parking and to put miles on it...

Fueling is always an adventure for RV's. Picking the station with the best in and out access, wide lanes, and the correct lane to use is critical. I try to take outside lanes whenever possible. With the rear overhang there's quite a bit of rear swing out when maneuvering so being on the...

My 24,000 GVWR 8.1/Allison class A gets 6-8 MPG when I'm towing the Explorer and I don't take fuel consumption into consideration when driving it.

Pull the plug and push the pins slightly to one side or reseat them so they make good contact. You can use a $1.99 pick and hook set from HF https://hftools.com/app63697 My 1994 plugs loosen and the retaining clips break. I use skinny zip-ties to lock them in place. I try to avoid replacing...

At least you know the 4x4 still works

I think you are giving the modern automotive dealership too much credit to think they have an established business model based upon anything other than general incompetence.

I replaced the upper control arms and lower BJ's on the 2010 2wd Ranger with Napa Gold over a year ago. They had them in stock, they went in nice and tight, aligned well and were substantially less cost than the Duratec AZ crap.

How come 410 can swap a 5.0 in a truck where it was never intended and completely rewire it so it all work and a dealership can't even replace an engine without screwing it up? Don't answer, rhetorical question. Dealerships hate people like us that have enough knowledge to understand replacing...

Lately I've had better luck and better prices with NAPA Gold products than AutoZone stuff. RA is hit or miss. Amazon is all counterfeit parts. I have had luck with eBay resellers that say they found a dusty NOS OEM box in a storage unit that's what I'm looking for. Really good luck with O2...

That's what I posted about earlier when I suggested changing the front diff fluid. You pump the old oil out of the fill hole. After you get as much as possible out you refill with fresh fluid.

That's pretty clever. I like pulling the cover so I can inspect at the same time, but that would be a great trick for a daily driver. With my trail rig Explorer I'll pull the covers about every other year. Same time I inspect the wheel bearings, replace the transfer case fluid, and drain about...

You could drill and weld a bung for your own drain plug

I've done it before but I haven't had that axle in over ten years. I used a cheap HF fluid pump. It has a smaller diameter hose. That's the only way since there's no drain plug.

If you've had it for ten years and not used 4wd, I strongly suggest changing the front diff fluid. You can get a $8 fluid pump from Harbor Freight and pump as much out as you can, then refill with fresh fluid. The rear you can change by removing the cover. Then you can let it drain and clean...

RangerX mentioned it a few times that the socket without the lip doesn't hold very well. I have both after busting my knuckles on the lug studs a few times. I use the no lip one to get the inner nut where I want it, then use the lipped one to torque the outer nut.

Have you considered using 1/2" plywood instead of diamond plate? I made my center console that way in my 1994 and covered it with vinyl. It's looks more OEM than diamond plate, even though mine has diamond plate trim.

That's what I meant when I wrote getting the torque right is tricky. The inner nut is basically hand tight. The washer keys to the pin on the inner nut and the spindle key notch. When your torqueing the outer nut to 150 ft pounds, the inner nut will turn slightly, then will be locked in place by...

I would love a project like that. Halloween trunk or treats, parades, and maybe even using it to save the house.

Title is required for salvage yards to accept a vehicle in California.

Now that I've had some time to think about it, it could be trapped air like a few posted above. Find yourself a very steep incline and drive up on it and let it idle for a minute, it's always worked for my Explorer.

Check what you changed before the symptoms occurred. An easy way to check a thermostat is to put it in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer. See if it opens when it's supposed to open. Check the new housing, it's possible it's blocked? Stop throwing parts at it. It's something to do...

California strikes again.

If you were closer or the Arizona house was finished I would spend some time trying to convince you it needs a 5.7 Hemi. We could do that swap in 2-3 days if you had the parts. I bet the cost would be close to what you are going to pay the dealership to put the same problematic engine in. CARB...

That sucks. How many miles on the car? If theres gas in the oil, it would be better to get another engine. So, how about a 5.7 Hemi swap?

You might run into a snag when you install the manual hub nuts and locking washer. They are keyed so the inner nut is basically hand tight, then tightened slightly until the washer fits on the nut pin and key slot. Then the outer nut is torqued to 150 foot pounds. The inner nut and washer...

Those types don't understand what a real trail rig can easily do. I've been warned about trails I cruised through several times by the newer Tacoma and 4 door Jeep crowds. Even a bunch of old folks in side by sides told me there was no way I could get up a 2' ledge they just spent ten minutes...

Was it a newer Tacoma with $20k worth of stuff bolted to it, or an older Toyota with a Trail Gear sticker? That water crossing wasn't even worth worrying about for the Ranger.

There should be a flat locking key in the nut inside the cut out part of the spindle. You can turn the nut slightly to take pressure off the key, then pull it out with a pick or small screw driver. The nut is only supposed to be hand tight.

I've heard of Odyssey not honoring or making warranty claims difficult. I won't buy a companies products that don't honor warranties.

Rick's right. You might have knocked a vacuum line loose or cracked an old tube while changing the wires.

Please read the posts. All the information you need to decide what you want to do is in them at least once, spoon fed even.