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I wasn't expecting a vacuum leak.

Does vacuum engage or disengage the hubs?

@410Fortune in another thread it was revealed after rebuilding the transmission, the engine blew a head gasket.

95tm heads, 422 cam and headers.

The heat is brutal. Nothing ever needs attention when it's 68 degrees and overcast

Correct about the freewheeling. Next thing is to pull the cover to see how things look.

Does that axle have the vacuum disconnect? Put a pry bar behind the flange the driveshaft is connected to. If it wiggles, you lost preload.

Is it the 8.8 IFS? If your ring gear has less teeth than someone at a Willie Nelson concert I'd like to shake your hand.

My wild imagination is thinking the pinion preload is not in spec.

That's a lot of play. How do the teeth look on the ring and pinion?

The A4LD has a removable bellhousing. If you're thinking about a motor swap, you're limited on what will clear the front axle housing. The duratec will be too wide to clear the body and you can't move it forward far enough. Look into a vw or kubota diesel swap. There's adapters available to...

That's a miserable job.

Welcome to the forum. What year is the A4LD?

If it isn't cracked, run it.

80W/90 is fine, I'd run it and not think twice about it. It's a good idea to change the fluid every 50k miles or so.

This is how wars are started. You don't need the friction modifier in an open axle. Either oil will work, the 80W/90 is basically for standard duty and the 75W/140 is when you got the tow package. I prefer the synthetic oil personally.

The gear teeth look good, no visible contact wear to be concerned about. The crush sleeve can fail then cause the pinion to lose its preload, and then you have a self machining part until it breaks.

If it is a 96 ranger, 4.0 it will be a D35 front axle.

I'd suggest eliminating the crush sleeve and get spacers. It makes it where you can do the job easier and the spacers won't fail like the crush sleeve can.

For a dealer to do the work, it will be very expensive.

People are just dying to get in there.

Now you're speaking my language. Those old wagons were the best cars to make go fast. Nobody expects it, and at the track, the most consistent passes.

What kind of shaggin wagon you got? Are you going to do heads, stroker crank and a blower?

Welcome to the forum.

I'd test for compression in the coolant.

My friend is inspired to do a vw diesel swap cause of this build.

It's worth under $5,000 and they're asking $10,000 for it. That tells me everything I need to know about that lot.

For anyone wondering the maximum rated cutting thickness, 1.6mm is 14 gauge.

Wow, you know me well. As I always say, experience is something you generally gain, just after you need it.

Beautiful car, and I agree, that's how wars are started.

Self rectal examination. Easy fix, happens to all of us.

The old grey top interstate batteries would last my dad between 10 to 15 years. They don't make them that good anymore.

AGM does do well where it's not extremely hot in the summer. 18 months is all I'd ever get out of them. Always died in the summer in Phoenix.

I found a NP242HD at the same yard I got the clutch pedal from. Great service and they gave me a $50 discount. $200 out the door. Next item on the parts list is a TR6060 with a 2.97 1st gear and .050 6th gear.

I haven't had good luck with AGM batteries.

Either rebuild the transmission you have, or could convert it to a manual transmission.

Is the current transmission automatic or manual?

Nine lives. Eight had to die so this one could live on.

Welcome to the forum!

No doubt it sucks cleaning the stuff off the surfaces.