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I am sorry to completely disagree, but, I am the only one to have had good luck with their chain tensioners? I only have only 10k miles since doing passenger side at 150k. I only did that after still hearing noise after doing the manifold gaskets and the driver's side tensioner at 125k. She...

P1409 is malfunction in the EGR vacuum regulator (EGRVR) solenoid circuit. The solenoid resistance should be between 26 and 40 ohms. Check the connector and wires for damage and if it's all good, then swap out your EGRVR solenoid.

Lean condition procedure

I think I can post a diagram for that. In a nutshell, after the air flows through the blend door, it next encounters the floor/panel door, and then the panel/defrost door. The strange thing here is that a vacuum leak will cause the floor/panel door to default to panel and the panel/defrost...

Yes, fuse #17 is the cigar lighter. But, there is a separate fuse for the Auxiliary Power Socket: fuse #22, 20 amps.

You have already tested most of the electrical parts of the switches, which are the fan speed controller and the temperature knob. If your AC clutch activates when you select A/C, then that electric switch is good also. Sadly, the function selector switch is vacuum driven, as well as all of...

Get FORscan demo for Android (free). It'll pull BARO. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.astech.forscandemo I haven't tried the full version (FORscan Lite) for Android yet. The laptop version is outstanding, free and highly recommended.

Here you go...

Not likely. Could be a clogged fuel filter though. Bad intake manifold gaskets also throw these codes, as well as any other vacuum leaks. If you search this forum for "P0171 P0174" you'll find lots and lots of advice. Or, try this excellent thread for starters...

Yeah, that cold start & bad idle issue is a pretty solid indicator of bad intake manifold gaskets...

Yeah, that cold start/idle issue is a pretty solid indicator of bad intake manifold gaskets...

^+1 !! Really like leaving mine cracked, also. Hmmm... After reading the above I think I'll go try a quick double-tap: one to start Auto down and one to stop it before it gets too far... Nope. :crazy: BUT, a Down-Up-Up triple-tap works. Almost... Maybe with some practice.

From the service manual: "Auto mode provides the OTD feature. The OTD feature is activated when the LH window regulator control switch, for the LH window, is pressed between 0.04 and 0.4 seconds, and then released. Auto mode will be terminated when any of the follow conditions are met: The...

Yeah, the GEM talks to a One Touch Down (OTD) Relay. And, yes , it's in the Relay Module, located above the gas pedal. Here's a picture of the layout... I really wonder how you're supposed to get in there. Pull the radio, maybe ?? I did not see JC's write-up in the service manual, but...

Yeah, that cold start issue is a pretty solid indicator of bad intake manifold gaskets...

WHAT ?? I thought you were... :dead: Awesomeness ! :chug:

I have no idea what's going on with your vibration issue, but it's not likely to be anything to do with your transfer case.

I figured I might as well post the rest of that here as well so it's all in one place. Now that we've got that out of the way... I have no idea what's going on with your vibration issue nor whether or not it may be related. :dunno: Link to Joeetogo90's bad vibrations thread.

More from the service manual: "Transfer Case - Automatic Four Wheel Drive (A4WD) The A4WD system is an electronic shift 4x4 system that allows the operator to choose between three different 4x4 modes. The operator can switch between A4WD and 4WD HIGH modes at any speed. To engage or disengage...

Yep. Normal. The N position on the transfer case isn't "for" anything, except for the computer (GEM) to command the electric shift motor on your transfer case to rotate through when shifting ranges from 4HI to 4LO. Yeah, these things literally do have a Mind of Their Own. Two, actually: the...

More detail is provided in the service manual: "The Borg-Warner 44-05 transfer case is used in the Explorer (4WD) vehicle. The transfer case transfers power from the transmission to the rear axle, and also to the front axle when electronically activated. Mechanical Operation In the Auto mode...

Again, this is normal. In auto your electronic transfer case automatically varies the amount of lockup of the front axles. The percentage of lockup is varied between a minimum and a maximum amount based on various sensors. At minimum, they still turn some.

Firstly, from your owner's manual: "The vehicle should not be operated in 4WD HIGH and 4WD LOW on dry or merely wet pavement. Doing so will produce excessive noise, increase tire wear and may damage driveline components. These modes are intended for use only on consistently slippery or loose...

Hi

Yeah, the emergency brake is a kinda known issue... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/emergency-brake-not-working.446534/ Mine had it when I got it. I paid an A-hole too much to sort it out for me. Was not aware of the Forum then...

^ Mercon V is superior to Mercon which is no longer widely available. Nothing wrong with running Mercon V (or full synthetic, if you prefer) in the transfer case.

Bad week for the OHVs... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/1997-explorer-engine-swap.460807/

Damn! Everybody else's truck is much shinier than mine. Why do I keep dumping $$$ in her? I remember. There's no explaining, it it must be love

If I had to replace one of these I think I'd pull it from the junkyard for low $$. They probably made this section out of steel for strength at that elbow-bend, and it has a built-in motor standoff. But, it is rubber on either side of this piece, so a full length rubber replacement should be...

I think I found your part, Motorcraft RH61: This? According to Fordparts.com this is a "Radiator Water Outlet Hose"

Check fuse 10. Does anything happen when you rotate the hot-cold knob? If not, and fuse 10 is good, the problem is going to be with your blend door, blend door actuator control or AC blend door actuator motor. Also, IIRC, the function selector switch is vacuum driven and I had to chase down a...

Glad to help. Sounds like you're on the right track Keep us posted.

I would make tracking down that fuel leak my first priority! Then, get after those rusty brake lines, as mentioned above. Sorry that it took so long to get back to you on your diode question. I had the answer but couldn't remember which thread the question was in. :dunno:

The ABS diode is a diode, and not a fuse. For a plumbing analogy, it can be thought of as a one-way valve. It allows current to flow in one direction only (and , therefore blocks all AC current.) To test a diode without a diode tester (most multimeters have these nowadays, even cheap ones) you...

Frisky at 155K, but still chasing down my 12 MPG problem. I believe that Lucas Oil stabilizer save my plastic chain guides until I did my tensioners. Rattle is gone except that occasional (warm!, not cold) startup and quiets after 20 to 30 seconds,, or a restart kills it. Would have been...

Yeah I did the torsion twist up an inch or two after doing the ball joints and got the front end proper. I kinda liked it looking whack so I left it be. 3 years later and my ass is a little lower now... 5yo shackles are starting to look Rusty now again, too. Hmmm... Perhaps back to plan A...

I fell you pain... (obviously unaddressed)...

Well, wrong again! I'll go ahead and edit the above post for the future. Transman304 has a nice post above showing a light blue with white wire going to your DLC pin 16, from fuse 17. And, the splice (or, common connection) looks to be at the fuse box, if we can take this diagram literally...