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im looking for the same problem i believe its a weak fuel pump, does it stumble in the higher rpm's?, i have 1130 and 1150 (bank 1 and bank 2) so it has to be something that affects both sides if you only have the one side then i would be more suspect of that side of the fuel rail or injectors...

its the clutch dragging i had the same problem when my clutch blew out a spring and it wedged itself to rub, shut the car off and its fine, ive also had alot of problems with slave cylinders going out, got a perfection clutch setup with a boot around it that seems to be working well

my bad

http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/0610or_2000_ford_explorer_v8/photo_23.html

check out the tidal wave haha

they went to returnless in 99 the fuel rail looks similar but the back port is all filled in, i just had to convert one in my ex

take off everyhing remove the halfshaft from the wheel bearing and pull the inner joint from the axle case, it just pulls out, but you have to wedge a long screwdriver where the seal is, the shaft is splined with a compression ring on the long end. then you can pop the seal out with the...

i drive a couple hundred miles a day with it out never had a problem plus better mileage

if it only goes that far then you need a need fan clutch, and its actually the opposite when the viscious fluid is warm inside the fan clutch it spins easier then when cold

if you can turn the fan by hand the clutch should be good ive replaced mine due to internal parts failing and it locked up the fan

how much would the backpressure effect it, i have a 2 1/2" flowmaster 40 with a turndown after the cats.

yea i switched everything from the 98 so all i changed was the shortblock and the heads, intake and plenum, switched the fuel rail and injectors, it doesnt set any codes, the last code i got was the p0340 about a month ago

i have a 98 ex and i just put a brand new 4.0 ohv in it (dont ask how i got it) and im lacking alot of torque for taking off, i have to ride the clutch or it will bog out and then it has a hiccup around 1k rpm, i thought it was the fuel timing so i repositioned the syncronizer withe the correct...

i actually reset mine a couple hours ago, if you dont get the correct syncronizer alignment tool it will set the code, the tool for the 5.0 and the 4.0 look very similar so ford tech have actually been messing them up to, the ford part number is t95t-12200-a and the global is 303-529, cylinder...

i had the same issue i believe its the t case, i replaced mine and it stopped, manuals have a tendancy to wear gears out

mines a 98' xlt with the m5od, just dropped a brand new (<1000 miles) 4.0 ohv in it runs perfect, but i could use a limited slip in the back though

ok you win hah, but eitherway id rather have the stick in an ex even tho the slave cylinder is kinda a dumb setup

yea they do in 98 too, i love my stick.... in my ex i mean

was this at silver lake? i cant wait to head back up there this summer

they are doing good, i balanced them out perfect so never any vibrations from them. they do good on snow but not so good on ice(as compared to hankook i pike winter tires i had on before) finally got stuck on a creek crossing in my woods when the ice broke through, but i cant complain i got em...

rust courtesy of michigan weather

invest on the property, then wait a little longer to do the dixon bros kit, it will be sweet when you get it done and the property will keep paying. im waiting to get the dixon kit too, might have to move to glamis just to run it hah

the shift fork was just the kicker into the new case but i personally just find it easier to pull the shaft, obviously everyone here knows how to use a wrench. most people use the brown wire mod for doing burnouts and whatnot so in most cases not the greatest idea.

its got skidplates its fine lol

i think i might end up getting the kl71's on my ex, 32-1150r 15 on stock rims i havent seen much of them even working in a tire store but they look sweet and i havent read any bad reviews