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My guess is it's the temp sensor for the gauge cluster. You should have two temp sensors, one for the engine computer and the other for the gauge cluster. Typically, the engine computer temp sensor will use two wires, and the gauge cluster sensor will use only one wire. This would also...

So I assume your is shifting just like mine, correct?

Well, I just used it to fix various problems with the A4LD, like delayed shift, etc. That is the shift kits' purpose. It can also be used to firm up some of the shifts, but with that comes other possible problems like broken hard parts. I decided not to firm up any of the shifts (by...

Well, I've just finished rebuilding and re-installing the A4LD in my 92 X, and everything is working great! Not too bad for my first A4LD rebuild... Anyhow, I was curious about adjusting the vacuumm modulator and TV cable. The Transgo shift kit I used gave a suggestion about adjusting the...

Hey all--a few questions I've read in quite a few places that the 4R55E is mechanically the same as a A4LD...other than the 4R55E being electronic. Now, if this is true, would it be possible to take the valve body assembly off of an A4LD and bolt it up to an 4R55E and put the 4R55E in a 92...

A couple of questions for you guys... I'm installing a 2 inch lift (shackles/F150 coil seats). I have 3.27 gears. I want to run 31x10.5x15 tires. I'm pretty sure these tires will be kinda big for the stock X wheels, so I'm planning on getting a set of 15x8 steel chrome wheels. My...

Anyone have an IAC motor they want to sell? Jason

Well yeah, that's kinda what I meant it was supposed to do. My old 91 did that. The thing is, when I start the truck it will go to like 800 rpm and instantly drop down to like 700 rpm. It doesn't even rev up a little after startup. This is a problem because when cold then engine will...

Hey guys My 92 won't idle correctly when cold. Usually, when the truck is cold it should idle high (about 1200 rpm) until it warms up...like any vehicle does. My truck will start up, and drop right down to like 800 rpm in the morning. I already replaced the ECM coolant sensor, thinking...

Are you sure you plugged in the electrical connector into the transmission during installation? Is it seated fully? This transmission has electronic overdrive, so without that connector being plugged in you won't have OD. Jason

Most likely, it's the 1-2 shift govenor. It's located in the transmission extension housing, and the transfer case needs to be removed to access it. Goto: Dead Link Removed That's a great site and will tell you all about this problem. It's a common problem with the A4LD. Jason

They are the two round covers located next to the vac modulator. Getting them out is kinda difficult. You have to push the cover in, and use a small flat screwdriver (maybe two of them) and carefully pry out the lock ring that holds the cover on. Then you have to remove the cover. I find...

By replacing them. Once the old ones are out you can determine if they are bad. That's about the only way to check for sure. Jason

It's possible that the seals on the servos have hardened. Might not be a bad idea to replace them. It might be easier if you take the exhaust out to replace them if the trans is still in the truck. Jason

For those wanting to make their "idiot light gauge" become a real gauge for cheap, check this out. I went to Autozone, bought a Niehoff OP24761 ($5.99), removed my old oil press switch, installed this sender, and soildered a wire across the resistor in the cluster. Now I have a fully working...

I bought my other X, a 92 with 128k miles for $500. It had a problem going into gear, staying in gear, no OD, leaks, and shifting weird. I don't have the cash to rebuild now, so I decided to pull it to fix the leaks. I pulled it, replaced the front seal, crankshaft spacer (it was...

I'm not planning on unbolting the pump, just replacing the seal. I'm concerned about why the seal failed in the first place. Is it possible that the pump became un-aligned (or a bushing is bad) causing the seal to fail...or did the seal fail just because of age. It's got 128k miles. Jason

Ummm, yeah... Have they worked on any transmission before? :)

Well, I got the truck, and replaced the fluid and filter. Things are much better now. But, it's leaking from two places...the OD servo cover and the front input seal. What I'm planning on doing is pulling the transmission, replaceing the front seal, OD and INT servo piston and servo cover...

Hey, my front input seal leaks tool. And guess what...my trans has a delay going into rev or forward. I was thinking of just pulling the trans to fix the seal, since I don't have cash for a rebuild/used trans right now. Jason

Re: Try the low/reverse servo first Can you elaborate on the filter and screen thing? Is there a certian brand filter to get? And, whats with the screen thing? Also, should I do anything else while the pan is down? Jason

Well, after driving my 91 XL 4 door 5 speed for some time, I must say I like the Explorers. But, I want a nicer looking one...with less rust than my 91. I found one for sale, $500, clean, 128k, lifter tick, little rust (dog legs only), and an auto trans problem. He said when he shifts...

Yes, keeping it cool definately helps. Get the biggest cooler you can. The biggest difference between synthetic and regular fluids is the fact that synthetics won't break down under pressure/extreme heat as easily.

I rebuilt the auto trans in my Turbo Grand Prix. The trans has 7k miles on it, and it works like the day I put it back in. The car makes 250+hp and 300+ft lbs from a turbo V6. So, after rebuilding my trans, here's some of my thoughts. These manily apply to my 4T60 in my TGP, but they may be...

Wow, old post... I've got a 91 XL 4 door with manual trans, transfer case and hubs. 253k miles, trans rebuilt about 60k ago. Just took it on a long trip...350 miles highway driving and I still had 2 gallons in the tank. That also includes some 4 wheelin off road> :) Jason

Ok, so after much work I got my Explorer to stop with the temp gauge fluctuating thing. It's much better now. But there is a werid thing it does every once and a while... It will happen either after driving, or after shutdown. What happens is there will be a knock or thud of some sort...

Yeah, I just let it squirt all over. Believe me, I wasn't hurting much by doing so. The truck has 253k miles. Nuff said. :)

It's a heavy load off my shoulders... Yeah, 251k. The truck drives very nice considering the mileage. I did a full tune-up and replaced a bunch of stuff. Including registration/tax, I've got about $1400 total into the truck, and it's fully functional (mecahnically). It needs some rust...

Well, I fixed it. I put a new water pump in it. I also flushed out the engine with the water pump out. I pushed water in every oriface, and it came out of every oriface. There was lots of brown scaley rust. Once the water was running completely clear, I bolted the new pump on. The old...

I'm pretty sure I put it in the right way. I put it in so the body of it was inside the intake manifold. Just like any other thermostat. Here exactly what it does: 1. Warms up pretty quick. 2. Temp is usually inbetween the N and the O of "normal". 3. It will start moving slowly...

How do you check the heater cable? The only reason I doubt it's a heater problem is because the heat will get cooler/warmer. It doesn't stay constant. But I'll check it anyways. But it doesn't sound like a head gasket issue, does it? Jason

Ok, So far I've replaced: Heater core Thermostat (Motorcraft) Rad cap Fixed coolant leak in timing cover gasket I still have very little heat, and a wandering temp gauge. I looked for bubbles in the radiator and overflow tank. None. The oil is perfect, there is no white smoke, the...

My guess is it's a resonator/muffler. It makes the exahust sound a little nicer/quieter. Removing it won't hurt anything...just make it louder/sound different. Jason

It really wasn't that hard to bleed either. I just followed the service manual and it worked. Ah well... Jason

I bled it. It helped quite a bit. But I still have to wait at a stop to shift into first...I have to wait about 1-2 seconds now. Much better! Jason

Thats what mine looks like. I just opened the screw, let it bleed for a while (make sure to fill master cylinder...don't let it run dry!). Then, close the screw. Push the clutch slowly and hold. Have someone else open the screw to release more fluid/air. Do this until there is no air coming...

The trans was rebuilt about 50k ago...before I bought the truck. It does spin down fine, and apparently my problem has to do with it not disengauging fully as quick as it should. I'm going to try to bleed the clutch, I really think thats my problem after reading various service manuals. I'll...

The level in the master cylinder is just fine. I looked at the master cylinder and there are no leaks inside/out. I did notice something though. When I'm sitting at a light, and I push the clutch in, I can hear the input shaft/clutch spin down. It does it every time. The level in the...

Thats crazy, I've got the same problem on my 91. I was thinking of changing the thermostat tomarrow...I guess that's a good idea. Jason

I've got kind of the same problem. If I push the clutch in, and shift into first at a stop, engine idleing, I have to wait about 3-4 seconds before I can shift into gear. Reverse grinds as well unless I wait for a couple of seconds...then there is no grinding. Shifting is OK while...