Search results

Once upon a time someone here posted a link to a method for doing this that used a vacuum pump. This was how you could get all of the old coolant out. Like others have suggested, I have only ever been able to get about 1/2 the coolant out with a gravity drain. I just drained it as far as it...

I would start by looking at the rear sway bar, sway bar bushings, and sway bar links. The function of this system is to prevent symptoms like what you are describing, though they tend to be less noticeable at lower speeds. In an older truck you should check your bearings on a regular basis...

Hello, I need to get under the hood and find that the unlatching mechanism no longer works. This is probably yet another example of a 2-cent piece of plastic that should have been a 5-cent piece of metal and has now failed. I have lubricated the latch under the hood from time to time and have...

I would sort of not expect a noise from the differential or transfer case to only be there while turning, even though that does change the loading some. This is a common symptom of bad wheel bearings but you have replaced those. Can you replicate the sound with the front end jacked up and just...

Yes, I should also be getting a new one, but I never seem to have my act together to use it before it expires. LMHmedchem

Hello, Same question again. I can't seem to get my orders lined up to use one of my own codes. If someone has one I would appreciate it, again. LMHmedchem

Timing chain issues are not nearly as much of a concern with the 4.6L v8 as with the v6. The v8 tend to give some clear warning signs when the timing system needs attention where the v6 has a tendency to skip time and implode with little or no warning. Also, the timing system on the v8 is all...

Sorry I don't know anything about the OASIS report but what engine do you have? Is it the v6 or the v8? 130K miles is not really that much for a truck engine so I wouldn't start to worry yet. I can't imagine that anyone would have replaced the timing chain setup on a truck before 100K miles...

Broken bolts are quite a pain. Start right away with PB blaster or similar to get it in there and let it start working. You can also use a torch for 10 seconds and then spray immediately with WD-40. The cooling metal sucks in the oil (in theory anyway). After you have done that for a few days...

Also remember that you can end up doing unnecessary repairs that don't fix the problem. That doesn't help much with the budget. See if you can find someone who has a UV flashlight you can borrow, then it's only $10 for a bottle of dye. If someone has the light, they may also have half a bottle...

If it were me I would buy a coolant dye kit. This is a UV reactive or fluorescent dye that you add to your coolant. You then use a UV flashlight to spot where the leak is. Some kits come with special glasses to wear, etc. This is an example, FJC 4926 Universal Radiator Coolant Dye 1 oz...

Hello, Over the last two days I have replaced a muffler with the type that is attached with clamps instead of being welded. These are the u-bolt clamps and not the band style clamps. The results are mixed. If I am not stepping on the gas it is quite quiet. If I accelerate then I hear some of...

That is a very common feeling around here. I am in a constant battle to replace things before they rust away to nothing and fall off on their own. LMHmedchem

Can anyone suggest a good rust converter that they have used? I have heard that a rust converter can work as a good primer for POR-15 but I have never tried that. As always, suggestions would be appreciated. LMHmedchem

Thanks, I will definitely keep that in mind. I often have one but it never seems I do when I need to order. LMHmedchem

Thanks, that worked fine, saved me the tax more or less. LMHmedchem

Hello, My most recent code expired about a week ago and I have a pretty big order to put in. Does anyone have a code they can post? I tried a few from coupon code sites but none of they worked. That has never happened to me before. LMHmedchem

I use a bolt extractor socket. REXBETI Impact Bolt & Nut Remover Set ($25.97) If you can't get a socket wrench in there you can put a box wrench on the socket as it has a hex outside (look at the third picture in the link). I think the outside of the sockets is something like 3/4". For nuts...

I think that the main issue will be the traction control. If you do replace the knuckle then you need to make sure you get one compatible with that feature. I would contact the seller directly to make sure. My preference would be an SKF part but I don't know if you can get the traction control...

I would probably look at cutting them in half if removing the studs won't work. Can you post a picture of the old shield still installed where all of the mount bolts can be seen? I think it would be possible to make a 2-part shield but I need to see what it looks like exactly. Mine is a bit...

My guess is that at least 75% of the G3 explorers on the road today don't have dust shields on either the front or back anymore. It definitely isn't worth taking the knuckle apart or replacing it just for the dust shields. I would stay away from Dorman unless there is no other choice. I...

It was the same with my van, the dust shields were actually bolted inside thehub and bearing assembly using the same bolts. I was replacing the bearings anyway so I was able to do it in that case. I am wondering if you could get the shield off/on if you removed the lug studs from the hub...

The OE design has a wide opening on one side. If you look up a picture you will see what I mean. I believe that this opening is there so you can put the shield on over the hub but I would look for a video on how to install one of these to be sure. All of the brands look the same so a video for...

The hub and bearing are pressed into the rear knuckle. You need a hydraulic press to remove and replace those parts. You can also buy the parts and take them to a shop with the knuckle to have them do it. Why do you think that the hub needs to come out? Have you confirmed that the bearing it...

Do you have the replacement hardware yet? LMHmedchem

So are you only going to replace the flex lines at the wheels? If you look under the hood at the ABS pump you will see that there are some short lines that exit the ABS pump and go to a manifold about 12 inches toward the rear. The manifold is where you can disconnect the hard lines for removal...

There are two options for doing your hard brake lines. You can get a set of prefabricated stainless steel lines, 2002-10 Ford Explorer 4WD, Four-Wheel Disc w/ABS, 4 Door, Complete Stainless Brake Line Kit ($185 +ship) The cost of the prefab kit has not changed as far as I remember. There are...

Apply it every day until you are ready to start. The lower bolts and retainer nuts are very hard to find. One price I just saw was over $80 for one bolt. The size is M18-2.5x120mm. M18 is an odd size, which is typical of auto parts. Why use a common M20 when you can use an uncommon M18 that the...

If you have a hydraulic floor jack you could jack up, put in your jack stands, and remove one of the rear tires. Then move the jack to under the control arm where the strut bolts in. Use the jack to lift the lower control arm and watch the strut. If the strut rod shortens as you lift then it...

I have replaced all of my struts, but I used quick struts that include the spring. To get the same or better quality as the original part it costs about $170 per wheel. KYB SR4082 Strut-Plus Front ($161 +ship) KYB SR4051 Strut-Plus Rear ($162 + ship) or the OE part MOTORCRAFT ASTL4 Front...

I swore I would never set foot in a Firestone again after a mechanic there told me that I had go coolant on my "timing belt" and that it needed to be replaced. He said it would cost $650 and he could do the work in about an hour. He also said it wasn't safe to drive until it was fixed. When I...

I think you would have to disconnect and then jump the negative terminal to ground to do that. Even then, I am not sure if that would clear. If you try, you have to restart the computer in the right way after reconnecting so look up how to do that. It just involves turning the key part way, etc...

I also at times buy from a local hardware store as well as from McMaster-Carr, Belmetric, Fastenal, and a local company here call BoltDepot. My main reason for using these other sites instead of a local store is the selection of available coatings. With all the salt around here I like to use at...

I generally use Motorcraft for parts like the S-belt. An aftermarket model number would generally be marketed for a number of different engines and so may not fit any of them exactly. The Continental, Gates, and Motorcraft belts all cost more or less the same. I think that both Continental and...

The code you report is a fuel injector issue. This is a pretty good writeup. You should at least carefully inspect the wiring to the injectors, especially the grounds. Make sure that your ground system is working well, meaning that the various ground wires that connect to the engine, body...

I'm glad you found it, but it would be a bad idea to have left it there anyway. The wrong bump in the road the the bolt bounces up into the fan, or the belt, or any number of other things that could break when running at high RPM and being jammed up by a 10mm bolt. By the way, it is a good idea...

The combination of aluminum engine block + grade 8 steel bolts + vibration + corrosion generally means that bolts just can't hold as tightly as when they were new. It helps to replace the bolts but I always use either blue or orange threadlocker when I re-install a bolt. I typically use blue on...

Your description of the problem is a bit unclear. Do you mean that when you apply the brake, the truck speeds up? Try to describe exactly what you do and exactly what happens. Include the speed your are traveling at and anything you observe. You should also include the engine (4.0L v6/4.6L...

I would probably contact rockauto customer service at service@rockauto.com and tell them that the part failed immediately after installation and you either need to return it for replacement or get a new set of gaskets. I just don't like the individual gaskets used by these aftermerket...

You are probably just going to have to idle and look carefully with a flashlight while it's running. You should be able to follow the trail of leaking fluid from where it is collecting under the truck to where is is leaking from. If you still can't find it, you can get a UV coolant dye leak...