Leaking Coolant onto Exhaust

[AidansCars]

So hello all, I've been creeping around this forum for some time since I've bought my 4.0l 2002 explorer sport. You've all helped me very much, but now it's time for specifics. I've had this car since 200k, the only other owner was my neighbor who just drove her to Tallahassee a lot. She always got her scheduled maintenance and that's it. When I got it, I changed the oil, air filter, flushed the coolant after awhile and learning to do it. Eventually the front lower joints came out, then the upper t-stat hose gave and that was replaced. and have done extensive cleaning and care to the engine.

So now the problem...
I've recently noticed I've been losing coolant slowly it's kept it's temps normal. Honestly, she's always kept normal, even when I first bought it and drove all the way to Georgia from Florida without coolant (unknowingly). The other day I noticed the reservoir emptying, so I started the usual checks all around the cooling system. I came up empty. I thought the tire shop I went to recently did something to it, but after more looking, it wasn't them.
I came home the other day after a long drive across town and the engine bay was steaming from the back passenger right of the engine (sitting in driver seat), right next to the AC compressor. I just thought it was starting to burn out or something due to it being almost 102°. It's slowly gotten worse and I've realized its something leaking onto my exhaust and CAT. The more I smell and feel it, it's coolant. I also noticed that I heard air being sucked into the radiator from the cap, so that got replaced and the system was bled. So it holds some pressure obviously.
My questions are:
Is my harmonic balancer going bad and ruining my pump? Was driving so long without coolant burning out my pump and it's finally giving out? I don't think so as I'd be leaking from the front.
If I do need a WP replacement, should I go ahead and pull the fan, pulley and tensioner?
I use fram green coolant that is the proper OAT type.
LAST THING, IT LEAKS WHEN COLD, SO ITS NOT A PINHOLE

Waterpump leak.

2003 4.0L, replaced the waterpump about 7 times in the last year, along with a new tensioner, fan hub, and fan blades. And a pressure cap, and fresh coolant each time. Still leaking out of the weep hole, the waterpump shaft seal, tried different brands, motorcraft included. Really pissing me...

www.explorerforum.com

This post has helped a bit for sure, it's nothing from this area the more I look at it.

 

[AidansCars]

So hello all...

Another few questions, could my heater core be leaking and letting coolant slip out of the condensation hole? Could it be clogged with something? Could it be my heater control valve leaking and making me think it's much worse? And I don't think it's the WP. as I've looked more and more it seems to be intact and actually running along happily. It's not leaking anything nor are the lines to it.
Please help me, it's my only form of transportation for the moment haha

 

[LMHmedchem]

If it were me I would buy a coolant dye kit. This is a UV reactive or fluorescent dye that you add to your coolant. You then use a UV flashlight to spot where the leak is. Some kits come with special glasses to wear, etc.

This is an example,

FJC 4926 Universal Radiator Coolant Dye 1 oz. ($9.88)
REALHUNLEE Auto Leak Detector Tool LED Flashlight with UV Protective Glasses ($19.99)

Others here may post some other options that they have experience with.

You could also call your local parts store and ask what they have in stock.

At any rate, this is a good place to start.

LMHmedchem

 

[94Eddie]

Another thing you might want to do is a compression test on all the cylinders to rule out a head gasket issue. Do you notice any hint of white smoke coming out of the exhaust?

 

[AidansCars]

If it were me I would buy a coolant dye kit. This is a UV reactive or fluorescent dye that you add to your coolant. You then use a UV flashlight to spot where the leak is. Some kits come with special glasses to wear, etc.

This is an example,

FJC 4926 Universal Radiator Coolant Dye 1 oz. ($9.88)
REALHUNLEE Auto Leak Detector Tool LED Flashlight with UV Protective Glasses ($19.99)

Others here may post some other options that they have experience with.

You could also call your local parts store and ask what they have in stock.

At any rate, this is a good place to start.

LMHmedchem

I don't think I need a dye test, I know the area it's coming from, and to be truthful, I think it may be the starts of the heater core failing, the heater core valve (I believe it's called), or a hose between the firewall and engine.
I'll be getting under her again as it just got hot enough to get rid of the humidity. Will post updates

 

[AidansCars]

Another thing you might want to do is a compression test on all the cylinders to rule out a head gasket issue. Do you notice any hint of white smoke coming out of the exhaust?

I can almost say with 100% certainty that it isn't my head gasket. I've been around so many people who don't take care of their engine and I know the smell and signs of it failing. My manifolds are bone dry (rusty, but dry), my exhaust pipes themselves are pretty good and dry except the occasional water we're all supposed to have, so no leakage into the exhaust system. I don't have any big losses of power, and when I checked my oil the other day it was still dark brownish (it needs changed). I can't afford to do these tests unfortunately as I just lost my job and I'm a father to a 7 month old. My backup was delivering groceries, but kinda hard without a car...
If I need to get a tester, I will. But for right now I'm gonna have my brother in law come over and help me visually inspect the entire bay and see what we can see. Sometimes a second pair of eyes is all the difference.
Will keep everyone updated.

 

[94Eddie]

I can almost say with 100% certainty that it isn't my head gasket. I've been around so many people who don't take care of their engine and I know the smell and signs of it failing. My manifolds are bone dry (rusty, but dry), my exhaust pipes themselves are pretty good and dry except the occasional water we're all supposed to have, so no leakage into the exhaust system. I don't have any big losses of power, and when I checked my oil the other day it was still dark brownish (it needs changed). I can't afford to do these tests unfortunately as I just lost my job and I'm a father to a 7 month old. My backup was delivering groceries, but kinda hard without a car...
If I need to get a tester, I will. But for right now I'm gonna have my brother in law come over and help me visually inspect the entire bay and see what we can see. Sometimes a second pair of eyes is all the difference.
Will keep everyone updated.

When coolant is lost into the exhaust you hardly ever see pooling water anywhere in it. The temperatures are so high that it is flashed to steam and/or evaporates. Depending on the severity of the leak, there might be visible signs of water vapor coming from the tail pipe when it is running and the engine is up to temperature. You should also test for the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant. The kits to do this are sold at any auto parts store. Until you do some definitive testing, you are just throwing crap against the wall and hoping something sticks.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Also remember that you can end up doing unnecessary repairs that don't fix the problem. That doesn't help much with the budget. See if you can find someone who has a UV flashlight you can borrow, then it's only $10 for a bottle of dye. If someone has the light, they may also have half a bottle of the dye sitting around as well.

LMHmedchem

 

[AidansCars]

When coolant is lost into the exhaust you hardly ever see pooling water anywhere in it. The temperatures are so high that it is flashed to steam and/or evaporates. Depending on the severity of the leak, there might be visible signs of water vapor coming from the tail pipe when it is running and the engine is up to temperature. You should also test for the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant. The kits to do this are sold at any auto parts store. Until you do some definitive testing, you are just throwing crap against the wall and hoping something sticks.

After more research and looking. It's looking like the heater core is the problem. The smell, coolant leaking from under the condenser box and it trying to disguise itself as ac condensation. I'm almost certain. I'll bypass it and see if it still leaks. If so, I'll go and get a test kit

 

[AidansCars]

When coolant is lost into the exhaust you hardly ever see pooling water anywhere in it. The temperatures are so high that it is flashed to steam and/or evaporates. Depending on the severity of the leak, there might be visible signs of water vapor coming from the tail pipe when it is running and the engine is up to temperature. You should also test for the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant. The kits to do this are sold at any auto parts store. Until you do some definitive testing, you are just throwing crap against the wall and hoping something sticks.

Well, throwing shid at the wall and hoping it stuck did it for me after almost 7 hours of diagnosis and searching my entire engine bay, ripping apart half my passenger quarter panel, fender liner, heater hoses, heater control valve, and various other parts that were either moved or removed....
I FOUND IT!

My heater core sprung a leak and has been weeping fluid out of its condensation port. It looks exactly like the AC condensatator because it's right below it. It's been dripping onto my CAT sensor and making it look like my head gasket was finally calling it quits. I put some bars radiator and heater core stop leak and it's seemed to do amazing...
I haven't had any leakage for a few days now. It's a temp fix for a problem I can just bypass when it really goes. I'm not giving up on the truck. I think 500k is easily possible and 750k is attainable.

One last thing for everyone with this problem. grab yourself some rubber hosing, find one wide enough to fit (5/16ths or 3/8ths I think) and run it from your condensation port to behind your front tire. You won't get a single drop of coolant onto your exhaust and it'll honestly make your engine nicer. I'm about to do the same with my ac condensation because I honestly think it's a cool idea to have a runoff. Hopefully that helps everyone! Also, use a hose clamp

-Aidan

 

[94Eddie]

Replacing a heater core is a PITA job. If the stop leak works then I consider that a blessing.

 

[AidansCars]

@94Eddie
Then I guess the car gods have seen my suffering these past 4 years doing everything on a shoestring budget and hand tools... Because the stopleak has help for almost 100 miles now and even through some offroading and heavy driving. She leaked a bit more today but stopped. I'll just buy some more and hope that does it for now. When the core comes time I'll just bypass it as I live in Florida and won't really need it too much. I'll just get some portable heaters for traveling

 

[94Eddie]

@AidansCars
Be careful about adding too much stop leak into the cooling system. It can coagulate and cause blockages in the coolant passageways in the engine and radiator. This can cause over heating and lead to severe engine damage. Also, trying to get this goop out of the engine can be a nightmare.

 

[mountaineer2004]

There's no such thing as fix-it in a bottle, so start planning for the big repair job.

I put stop leak into the power steering system and doing that turned a slow leak into a catastrophic failure...YMMV