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TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) sells them by the pound. You can get 16 bolts (enough to repl. both sides) for about $3-4.00.

Try rolling the window down, with left hand on the lock stem, push & pull repeatedly while lifting on the door handle at the same time. Might take a few tries. This is probably a bad/sticky actuator.

+1 my V8 AWD was glued to the road this past winter. Last winter was the worst we had here in IN. in the last 5 yrs.. Woke up one morn to 13.5" :eek: and she rode like there was nothing there !!!

"6 double plutonium plugs (parts guy recommended em)" Absolutely no advantage here...IMHO a waste of $$$. NGK or AUTOLITE are very reliable, last longer, and much cheaper. You also haven't said whether or not you have finally replaced the other 2 plugs. Very hard on the coils trying to...

Well I finally just reached the "break in" mileage of 200,000 :party: last night on my way home. I have 3 boxes from R A full of front and rear suspension parts that have been sitting here screaming at me to install them :rant:. So now that the weather is finally starting to get better and...

+1...mine does that too. there is also something to be said about the timing of the signal being sent and received to the gps (cloud cover etc...)

I don't know what you paid for used ones, but around here there aren't but 2 or 3 J Y's and they want top $$$ for used parts. I've just been ordering new stuff from R A. In fact I don't even shop at Adv., AZ, or Or's unless I just have to have it now. Even most of my clients will wait to save $$$.

These are what I ordered from Rockauto.com. I have the 1 piece design on the right side, but the 2 pc. is avail. for about the same price. New rubber, new B J, new arm :thumbsup:. I haven't installed them yet, weather's been horrible :thumbdwn:. MOOG Part # RK80068 R-Series Front Right...

Sounds like the C V to me....just my opinion

+1, corrosion can also work its way down into the insulation of the battery cables causing intermittent starting issues. Check every terminal/wire that battery connects to from bat. to starter.

Me too, in fact I'm currently looking for another for my son. I'd love to get him something with a little better mileage but my wife will probably sleep better at night knowing he is in a reliable big hunk of steel instead of a little piece of plastic

97 5.0 4dr AWD w/police pkg...16 town, 21 hwy. Needs frt suspension work & alignment.

Not to high-jack this thread but I can tell you from lots of past experience with clients cars, stop leak has a very strong tendency to completely block up a heater core, even more so if not keeping the up with flushing your system once a year. Once the crud gets built-up the stop leak just...

I had a CEL that would bulb test sometimes and sometimes not. when I pulled the IP and looked at the bulb it looked good. Upon further inspection, the element was broken and it would make contact sometimes and work. Long story short...bulbs are probably bad.

Either should not cause too many problems IMHO. However I would work on getting the air box out, it is a PITA to twist it up out of there especially for the first time, but mainly because you'll need to remove it if you ever need to change the pass side headlight too. Once you do get it out put...

No they would not have told you that. However the wiring diagrams in the back will tell you wire colors and terminal locations, they will at least give you an idea of say looking for a dk blue wire w a wht stripe in a bundle of 30+ wires.

Get a Haynes or Chilton's Manual, they are worth the 15-20 bucks if for nothing more than the wiring diagrams, although they are not the best out there. My best guess is there is a wire in the door jamb, where the harness comes out of the body into the door. Even the best of designs can not...

In the center of the harmonic balancer, recessed up in there a little. I think it's an 11/16 or 7/8 (can't remember) w/ a 3" ext.

Most of the scosche adapters fit multiple vehicles. Mine has 4 plugs on it but only 2 are used.

You might also check to see if P O put one of those direct plug in trailer light pigtails on. Mine had one on it when I got it, it was all corroded and wasn't working on trailer correctly. As far as reliability, I absolutely love mine. The Christmas/New Years blizzard that dumped 16" here in...

Ouch !!!

First I would check the fuse. If good pull the panel and use test light to check for 12 volts going into switch, press switch and check for 12 v going out. Chances are it's the switch. Test for voltage at the terms on the rear window.

That's your flasher/hazard relay, about $15 at parts store. Just unplug and replace w new one. (new 1 may or may not be yellow)

I don't know how everyone else here feels about the Lucas products. I use most all of them in everything I own and have never had a bad experience. TBS, after removing all of the old fluid (or amap) I would add a bottle when refilling. IMHO

Don't call someone. if it's driveable, drive it over the scales yourself, you'll get more $$$ for it. no middleman. If you have acess to another motor and some knowlege, bring it home and rebuild it yourself. With the money saved you can buy a little beater to drive through the winter.

I do have factory exhaust manifolds, and all of the heat sheids on them have deteriorated and came off. The wires should be plenty long enough to loop back up to the spark plugs and with the loom clips they hold pretty tight in posistion. As soon as I figure out the pic process, I'll post some.

I hate to ask the obvious but it was never stated. Have you checked the fluid level? Is it clean? CEL?

I'll climb on as well. I joined not so long ago too, and have found sooo much useful information here. I have been working on anything with a motor all my life, but it's very nice to go somewhere, where common problems are listed, and remove a lot of the guess work. Hats off to all, and I'll...

When I changed mine I routed them down the front of the motor, then along the frame rail, and then went UP to the plugs. Go to local parts store and get an assorted pack of loom clips and about a 3' piece of 3/4-1" corrigated wire protect tube (the black(or colored) ribbed tubing). Put all...

:salute: ROTFLMAO... I was always under the impression it had to do with the gas tank fires from a few yrs back (mainly trks), and it just kinda fit.

I may need to do that anyway, but I was trying to avoid it. I was hoping the hinges had some adj. I have about 3/8's difference and when I open the hood it catches on the cowl. Not too badly scratched up now but I dont want it to get worse.

This acually works very well. Many many years ago I picked up an 8' peice of sched. 40 pvc, for about $2.00. Cut it into several lengths (from about 3" to 18"), and kept them in my tool box so that no matter what I was working on I could just slip it over the shaft of the strut, and had that...

I found a couple of threads about adjusting the front of the hood height. Does anyone know, do the hinges adjust up & down? If I loosen the 4 bolts going into the firewall, does that have up&down movement for the rear height of the hood?

I found the same thread about the wrong positions and then lost it when i tried to go back to it. It's good to know, considering I'm getting ready to change mine out. The above reply about bleeding the system came from Mitchell Manual. I have found it very effective getting all the air out of...

I have heard the same thing. A few people have told me, when they found out I bought an X, and my left side up & lwr have both been replaced at some point, and it needs an upper again. Here in about a month or so, I'm going to pull it in the garage and start from square one. New uppers, lower...

Bleeding, Power Steering System — Air Purge With External Vacuum Source Special Service Tool(s) Vacuum Pump D95L-7559-A or equivalent CAUTION: Do not hold the steering wheel in the far right or left position or damage to the power steering system may result. CAUTION: If the air is not purged...

These vans are really hard on both, inner& outer tie rods. Unless you know for sure there is a good chance the entire steer/susp. system is 15 yo. probably wouldn't be a bad idea, if you like the van, and plan on 15 more yrs of service, hit it all: rack, b-jts, outers, struts, hub brngs...