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251,881 miles as it sits right now on my 98. 4.0 SOHC and 5R55E auto all original and no rebuilds on the engine or transmission. Definitely not as high as others, but pretty good considering nothing has been replaced or opened up.

Take the tires off and check your ball joints. I had to replace the cheap Chinese ones that a bad shop installed because they were clunking and squeaking constantly. If it is your ball joints making the noise, take the opportunity to replace the cam bolts on the UCAs so you can do a t-twist up...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/starkmans-explorer-build-thread.391609/ This thread has some pics of sliders.

Lifting your truck is essentially all about making room for whatever size tire you will be running. You can lift it 5", but not gain any ground clearance at all if you keep your stock tires (approach,departure, and breakover angles will improve though)...

Clean the throttle body as well as you can, and make sure no hoses or connectors came off between the filter box and throttle body.

How are the pressures in your tire? Too low and it could cause a lot of added friction. I am only on 31s with 3.73 gears and 4.0 SOHC at 204k miles, and I still get 15 city, 18+ highway. Pulling an enclosed trailer brings me down to about 12, and that is with OD off too. Definitely check you...

It looks like he hasn't been active in a while. In his description, he says he also has a 3" body lift on top of TT and shackles.

The shocks are all around pretty good, especially for the price. I constantly have cargo back there and also towed with them, and they were firm, but not stiff. They also keep the back end from sagging too much. Plus, if you need new shocks anyway, you might as well replace them with these...

I'm not sure what you are trying to look up since multiple options come up on a google search for "5" Ford Suspension Lift Kit - 2WD". It seems like most of those kits are for coil front suspension, not torsion bar suspension. For coils, you can add a spacer or get a longer coil to add ride...

Inexpensive Superlift Suspension 85331 front shocks for 3-4" lift: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-85331/applications/model/explorer/year/2001 I would still call to make sure they will fit for 2WD though. Or search around the forums to see if anyone is running these with 2WD. As for...

Monroe 58617 Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting Shock https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58617-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C53RXK If you do go with lift spindles up front, you will have to get longer front shocks to compensate for the extra height of the spindles.

Since you are 2wd, you can crank the t-bars to the max, but that'll make the ride quality awful (you'd have no down travel going over bumps). Lift spindles are somewhat pricey, but at least you can maintain your ride comfort and just tt enough to level the front and rear.

Add a leaf, Warrior 153 shackles, and Monroe 58617 Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting Shock for the rear. TT and/or lift spindles for the front.

Upload them to Photobucket. Copy the image address of the uploaded photo. Click the add image button in the reply box on EF. Paste the image url into the pop-up.

I think if you have an open differential you can go the cheaper route and get an Aussie. If you have a lsd, you are pretty much limited to Powertrax No Slip. It shouldn't be too difficult to install since you don't have to worry about wiring anything or routing an air hose. Just don't get...

Completely filled 5x8x5.5 trailer, with additional cargo in the rear and roof, I used to move from northwest MT to Houston, TX. Zero issues on the 2k+ mile trip spread over 3 days. My MPG sat around 12-13 for the whole trip, and temps never left the safe range. Not too bad for a 18 year old...

The ScanGauge II is the way to go. If you keep an eye out for sales, you can pick one up for a lot less than the regular $160 (got mine for $112 or something). You can pick up a trans temp gauge kit for cheaper, but the installation is much more of a hassle than the ScanGauge, and you lose all...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-2nd-gen-bodylift-pa-883-bodylift-instructions.240957/ As for cost, you can gain up to 2" for about $90 if you do a suspension lift instead. All you need to do is replace the stock leaf spring shackles in the back, and crank the t-bars...

Yes, all second gen hitch receivers should fit fine regardless of the specific year. As for the 6 bolt flange to the t-case, I cant help you there.

If you want to go up to a 255/60/R18, the Hancook Dynapro ATM is pretty aggressive. The size difference between 245/60/R18 and 255/60/R18 is minimal at 0.4" in overall height and width. You can also get General Grabber AT2s and Nitto Terra Grapplers in the 255 size if you are willing to spend...

If it ain't broke... right? My transmission also never had a fluid change as far as I know (had it since ~76k), and it still shifts perfectly, and doesn't leak or burn fluid. At this point, it would probably do more harm than good to replace the tensioners and do an ATF change/flush.

204k on mine now. All original timing chain components and no signs of any rattling. The only engine related work outside of general maintenance was replacing the alternator at ~120k and upper/lower intake gaskets at ~160k.

As long as it shifts smoothly, tranny fluid isn't burnt, doesn't burn/leak a bunch of oil, and doesn't have the timing chain rattle, there isn't much you can do outside of normal maintenance. Use full synthetic oil if you aren't already. Being in MN, you might want to check for and get rid of...

Just make sure everything works as it should. These old explorers are very common, so a fully functioning vehicle will set you apart from a lot of other used Explorers, and other used vehicles too. Check to make sure all of the interior buttons/knobs work, replace blown bulbs, hose off the frame...

If he lost the ground to the starter, he should still be able to turn the key to the ACC position and have the electronics in the cabin turn on (I think). Fuses should always be the first thing to check though. Check the ignition lock cylinder. There is a little piece on the inside of the...