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different part number at carparts (finally got time to look!) thanks for the URL...

Because theres is shot, I took it off to make sure that was the problem and now they are running around without a front. I dont need my 4wd on my ranger right now so I was going to give them mine so that they didnt have any chance to mess up their tcase. so I was just curious if anybody knew off...

I checked napa, they had no listing for the ranger driveshaft. Im not an idiot, thanks. I have a replacement already in the works but i need a temporary solution...

so nobody has an idea?

yeah so does my 2002. the u joint, yolk and cv look the same but im wondering length...

do they swap? are they the same length and part number? one is 4x4 2002 ranger the other is 1997 5.0 AWD exploder...

that track bar is totally gonna break. you need to add bracing to it. :confused:

but to avoid bump steer on a front axle, you need to have the drag link and the panhard/ trac bar as parralel as possibble. thatde be nearly impossible to acheive your goal and not get bumpsteer like a ****...

he didnt end up splodin the r&P, he broke the pinion flange and stripped the splinage on the pinion shaft...

lmfao.

no its a chastity belt. he told me...

chastity belt?

I recommend staying away from mud. Mud is a nasty beast and will just pull your vehicle to shambles, probably quicker than most other wheeling aspects...

sounds retarded! did you ever get a pic of you buddies XJ front link setup??

im not saying anybody is, I just want to let people know that all im saying is that this is the way its supposed to be done. you can do it other ways, im just giving the best info i can (which the purpose of forums is...) anyway, im referring to the bushings on top of the frame for the upper...

hey i dont care which way anybody does it. this is TECHNICALLY the right way to do it, whether it sounds stupid or not. I did it wrong too, until i found out the right way. Im just giving the most accurate information. thats it. it may be the "long way" but ****, itll take what an extra 20-30...

and itll work out the same as jacking it up and doing the twists, cause you dont really know how much height your gaining when you jack it as well. sorry, i probably shoulda just edited these...

and as for the proper ride height, it doesnt make it impossilbe. you just measure how much a few turns does and adjust to that formula. you should also technically cycle the suspension to see where the ride height truly settles...

yes it is. it is the proper way to crank the torsion bars. when you crank it with the upper arm attached to the spindle, it twists the bushings for the upper arm inside of the brackets. so the proper way to do it with out screwing up your buchsings long term, is to undo the upper arm. but...

technically, you should undo the upper A-arm from the spindle, then do the twist...

they look great. awesome work!

first ones for sheezy

definately stay with 15x8s. no question about that. I dont have an X so i dont know the fitment.if your not afraid to hack stuff, go for the 35s... either way, 15x8s...

wow which engine???

42k on my 2002 4.0 sohc...