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well.... all ive heard is my OEM stereo/speakers and the oe systems of other cars, so this is my first "modified" system, so between the mach HU and the kicker coaxial speakers and subs, huge difference imo! hopefully i never hear a nice HU, or else im going to want to buy one! my wallet is...

it still sounds really clear (to me at least... having only had factory audio systems in years past, so this upgrade sounds great to me!), and usually i listen to CDs anyways (still have a working changer!), so it all sounds really good to me... and now i dont have bass all the way up on the...

update, i scored a mach HU at my local JY and plugged it into my harness and all works as it should! sub is thumping nicely! much more bass than no sub 😀 out of curiosity; sinde these are pioneer decks, how do these compare to the HUs from BOSS in today? i know the difference is 22 years, but...

alright! well ill experiment with it and see! :biggthump:

yep, i took all of the harnesses and followed the wiring diagram from J_C's links, when i thought i had the mach HU... is it possible to tap into one of the speaker wires and run that to a line converter to use RCAs and use the factory turn on from the harness i have/made... or just run the...

so without reading kris's helpful thread quick audio refence, i bought a mach sub and amp and the enclosurr at the JY and ran all my shielded cable eyc to plug into the favtory plug on the back of my PREMIUM headunit (well im assuming premium, because it looks the same as teh ones in the mach...

im no pro, but when i went on grimmjeeper, with your current combo at 70 mph youre ag 2000 rpm, but with 4.56s and 35s woull be at 2298, so either way youll have more low end than now, so if youre happy with the current setup, 4.56, and 4.10s fwiw is 2066 rpm so very close to what you have now...

battery? spark plugs? or maybe injectors idk... this isnt my area fully, hopefully someone will chiem in with better ideas, but this is my 1st idea

ok... bear with me as im going to sound super stupid asking, but is there a way to get the 5r55w first gear (3.42 or something iirc) in the 5r55e... or is there a way to get a lower first (and as such 2nd) gear ratio in the 5r? or is 700r4 my only option (and does that work behind the sohc? i...

wait does that mean it cant be done in the 2nd gen? i could've sworn dominicanx had a 2nd gen... https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/4405-to-1354e-to-1354e-with-manual-shift.342766/#post-2885478

iirc you can do a BW1354 swap... i think the 1354e electronics are different, but it will bokt up... not 100% sure about the 1354M, because afaik theres not many electronics to it... i think Dominicanx has done it... and i think he had the 1354e converted to 1354m

when I went to eflexfuel.com and selected my 98 sohc it had said my X is e85 compatible with their kit... is thus true, as ive never touched my fuel lines so have no clue... chances are i wont run e85 all the time (not super popular here) but the prices where i am are definitely less (almost...

offtopic question, but how long of a delay shoyld I expect on 31in ATs? I placed my order a few weeks ago, still waiting on em. (im in no way upset or being impatient, im just wondering about others experiences!)

i see, well ill start with the addco bar and poly bushings, and see if i need more from there... thank you!

ill look into the addco or hellwig sways and poly end link (i think ES makes them...), and from what i gather for the from the thinnest spacer that can be ran is 1.25"? or is that for the 16s? also, i had heard the poly body mounts were not good, as the frame flexes but the body is rigid...

which bushings would be best to replace? ive already done the control arms, and the leafs (w/ rubber tho) nothing else has been touched... and addco vs hellwig sway... also, could wheel spacers be used to widen my track width, and would it be meaningful in any other way than aesthetics

would a better bet be to upgrade to poly bushings all around and get an ADDCO sway?

generally, im tryna look for something lightweight that will reinforce the roof in case i roll it, cause its slightly lifted (31s and omes/tt) and I do a decent amount of freeway driving... would a smaller roll bar be my best bet int his situation?

would it look something like this with cross bracing in the center? and can i hide it so its not visible in the passenger compartment? or not worth my while... and about how much could this run me? Thanks! (the photo of the x is one i found online, not mine 😅)

also, off topic question, but could I run 1.25 spacers in the front (or could I go down to 1 cuz i have the 15 teardrops not the 16s) and a 2 int he back, or should I just stick with stock and run a 1' in the rear thanks!

will that structural foam/plasticky stuff add rigidity to the roof? just wondering, as I would like to beef up the roof of the 2nd gen for the least cost possible... and how. much safer would a cage like ricks be? if its worth the cost, I may go that way, but Im looking to save a few dimes rn..

i run the hayden 689 and it gets rather warm (a hair over 100 at times) and i do a decent amout of froading... would that warrant syn?

question... ive seen the amsoil multi vehicle syn atf before and was wondering if thatbwould be better than the synblend castrol that i am running now... and if it even makes a difference if i swap my fluid ever 15-20k in the 5r trnas thanks!

thanks! one more random question- could i put the front clip (fenders, hood, bumper) from a 1st gen on a 2nd gen, as if memory serves right the frame is the same... and can the rear hatch off a 1st gen fit too?

alrighty!!! thats promising! would using a 2010 for exmaple engine requore a different pcm or is it simply a drop in? would the 5r55S work without any modificstion? i feel like o heard the casing may be different or something somewhere