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Aluminum is generally case wear. And aluminum shavings are deadly to a valve body. But, if it's powder, then you may not have much to worry about. Maybe.

That's what I'm sayin'.........

Here ya' go.

Those pics bring back memories.

I would pay to have it checked out if you're really serious about buying it. Price seems a bit on the high side though. Best offer I had on my 99 Limited 302 AWD (loaded!) with 90k miles was $5500. I decided to keep it.

Rollins Automotive Gainesville, Fl 352-375-7223 Dyno-Jet w/wide band O2 2 wheel

The reason the older 3 speeds seemed to last longer is solely due to the fact that they were 3 speeds. Cars didn't get as many miles, get loaded or driven as hard. As we have become more of a mobile and demanding society, we have come to expect more and more out of our vehicles. We regularly...

They got their start because of racing applications. The marketing guys jump in and figure they can make a buck by pushing them to everybody and everything.

These guys had a better idea. What a ride.

A lean exhaust code could be low fuel pressure, vacuum leak, clogged injectors, etc. It's simply an indicator. Diagnostic charts are formatted as a process of elimination (or cause).

A code is an indicator. That's it. When the computer sees a sensor (input) or a controlled item (output) outside what is set for it's normal parameters, it sets a code for the related item. When you read the diagnostic chart (very few bother) it lists what systems the chart is supposed to...

1 liter = .2462 gallons Kilometer x .6214= miles 17 liters = 4.1854 gallons 100 km = 62.14 miles 62.14/4.1854 = 14.85 mpg Not bad for city driving. Now, for the 4.7 Dakota; 12.25L = 3.02 gals 62.14/3.02= 20.58 mpg Also not bad for highway driving.

No. Bleed the brakes normally. You'll probably get a nice hard pedal. If not, then go cycle the ABS. Then, if necessary, bleed the brakes again. When bleeding, try gravity bleeding first. Open all the bleeders and fill the master cylinder up. Hopefully, within about 15-20 minutes, fluid will...

You mean not everybody has dirt roads nearby? ;)

Bank 2 is cylinders 5, 6, 7 & 8 on a V8 and 4, 5, & 6 on a V6. Sensor 2 is the one downstream of the converter.

Note when the special tool needs to be used. ONLY when the HCU is replaced.

Bleed it normally. The brakes will come up. Then take it to about 10 mph, stomp the brakes (cycling the ABS) then bleed 'em again. Repeat as necessary. ABS ain't rocket science.

Backpressure testers are avail. from about $45. You put it in place of a front O2 sensor and take the reading. I bought mine off ebay.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148433&page=2&pp=20 Need to put it through the drive cycle described there.

New heads. Because of a blown head gasket? Wondering if the converters are clogged up.

Mine had 90k on them when I replaced them. I ordered the Moog HD lowers for it and did the work on a Sunday (when NAPA was closed). Wished I'd bought uppers for it while I was there. Boots looked like crap and I'll prolly be doing them in the next 20k or so.

The tools are readily available at NAPA.

I'm thinking 2 things. Either the cam sensor is not in sync (did you use the synchronizer tool?) or the plug wires weren't re-installed on the coils properly. Or a wire got hurt when working on the cam sensor. That's 3 things. Kinda.

Well, I'm real big on diagnosing the problem. But, the above repairs stand a pretty good chance of fixing the problem IMO. Pretty good just isn't the way I'd go. But I'm stubborn that way. I have to find the problem. The solenoid could also have an internal short grounding itself. Or a wiring...

Warning for older, slower computer owners. The 99 file that I'm downloding is 199MB.