Wheeling thanksgiving weekend

Hey Jefe,

I got a IFS I'm taking off soon I'll sell ya, Cheap


Really thoufgh That suck big time man. does not look fun at all, but at least it's still drivable.

Jefe said:

I never pulled the cover since I was running out of time, but I dont think there is enough room to get to the shaft w/o cutting at the carrier also.

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Then I am thinking it's not welded, but the axle shaft has been forced down past the splined part, making a very, very tight fit. The splines could also be twisted.

So, weld a heavy and long rod (1" wide, 4 feet long; some all-thread rod comes to mind) to the axle, go to a local sporting goods store, and buy 4 5" weights. Place over the rod, and then weld something to the end that's bigger than the weights. Now, you've got a heavy duty slide hammer. Wack away until the axle shaft comes out..

I have a question:

what kind of welder did you use on your "puller"? Not that brief case jobber was it?

WOW & ouch!

410Fortune said:

what kind of welder did you use on your "puller"? Not that brief case jobber was it?

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Yeah, just my Miller 135 MIG

EDIT: Oh, you were asking if I used my 24v system. No, that is strictly trail use. And haven't you asked that before? Someone has.

What I would do is try the setup like you had in pic #2. Max the jacks out and then from the other end of the axle tube try to get a good wack on the shaft. I think the constant pressure and then a sudden jolt would free it, unless it is welded to the carrier or inside of the tube. Some more pics might help?

Eric

mechanix said:

What I would do is try the setup like you had in pic #2. Max the jacks out and then from the other end of the axle tube try to get a good wack on the shaft. I think the constant pressure and then a sudden jolt would free it, unless it is welded to the carrier or inside of the tube. Some more pics might help?

Eric

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I did whack it again once we got the jacks maxed out. It is not attached to the axle tube as the shaft still freely spins. From measurements taken and playing with a spare D44 carrier and axles, it is lodged into the carrier where the shaft necks up at the carrier bearings. This is locking the carrier together which was one of the sympthoms. The splines may well be twisted, but it has not been forced past the splines as the superior shafts have about 4" of spline.

Stic-o said:

I got a IFS I'm taking off soon I'll sell ya, Cheap

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Sweet, I'll just weld that all back on while this gets fixed. You're going to have to sell me my bodylift back though.

Actually, How about a trade, my D44 as-is for your full width + $?

Could you remove the front cover of the diff, remove the carrier bearings, slide the carrier over enough to cut off the alxe? A Saw-Zall would work I am sure.

Maybe I am not understanding where it is stuck.

mechanix said:

Could you remove the front cover of the diff, remove the carrier bearings, slide the carrier over enough to cut off the alxe? A Saw-Zall would work I am sure.

Maybe I am not understanding where it is stuck.

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With the axle in place the carrier won't move far. I could probably pull the bearing caps off and get any shims out of there to get a sawzall type blade in there. But I doubt a sawzall blade is going to do any good cutting 1.25" hardened 4340 chro-moly.

Jefe said:

With the axle in place the carrier won't move far. I could probably pull the bearing caps off and get any shims out of there to get a sawzall type blade in there. But I doubt a sawzall blade is going to do any good cutting 1.25" hardened 4340 chro-moly.

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Last time I tried to sawzall some hardened stuff, was metal 1, sawzall blade teeth 0 (wiped clean). The blade barely dented the piece, so I broke out the grinder and a cut off blade and did it in.

tdavis said:

Last time I tried to sawzall some hardened stuff, was metal 1, sawzall blade teeth 0 (wiped clean). The blade barely dented the piece, so I broke out the grinder and a cut off blade and did it in.

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Thats been my experience also. Even cutting 1/8" mild steel a sawzall blade sucks.

Jefe said:

Thats been my experience also. Even cutting 1/8" mild steel a sawzall blade sucks.

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Get the Milwaukee "The Torch" blades. They do really, really good on mild steel.

Good luck with what ever you do. I guess my answers are not going to work.

Eric

Jefe said:

Actually, How about a trade, my D44 as-is for your full width + $?

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You'd have to deal with me on that one since he hasn't actually bought it yet

If you havn't tried it already what if you applied heat from a propane/mapp gas torch and then try your puller set up? It may not do anything but might be worth a shot.

Jefe said:

With the axle in place the carrier won't move far. I could probably pull the bearing caps off and get any shims out of there to get a sawzall type blade in there. But I doubt a sawzall blade is going to do any good cutting 1.25" hardened 4340 chro-moly.

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Dana 44 shims are behind the bearings so that wont help you. Only other option I can toss out is maybe apply some heat to the carrier with a propane or MAPP gas torch. Dont know how much that will help though. Sure helped getting my pitman arm off though.

Is there an echo in here?

Great minds think alike

RockRanger said:

Dana 44 shims are behind the bearings so that wont help you.

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Dang, you're right.

I think I'm going to cut and sleeve the axle tube as Tom suggested. Or just let someone else deal with it. Either way I need another vehicle

Jefe said:

Dang, you're right.

I think I'm going to cut and sleeve the axle tube as Tom suggested. Or just let someone else deal with it. Either way I need another vehicle

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Time for a DD Huh

Hmm. . .now what?

The axle tube is 1/2", which means there's not enough room inside to sleeve it, so the sleeve has to go on the outside. And the axle is seriously wedged in there. Will try again on Monday.