Part identification, bushing? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Part identification, bushing?

Arkie71

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February 17, 2016
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City, State
N.W. ARKANSAS
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 EXPLORER XLT V8-AWD
Started to hear a thumping on the front end when turning. Took a look and found what appeared to be a bushing torn in half on the passenger side. Could some one tell me what part to ask the parts shop for? And is this something I could probably fix myself? I have jacks and plan on getting jack stands. It looks like it could be easy but then again I am not so sure :confused: Thanks for any help. Pic included.
 



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Front stabilizer linkage. Very easy to fix. Replace both sides is best. $20 to $30 dollar repair. The ones from the parts store will look different. The long middle thing that is plastic will be a metal tube on the replacement. Replaced both of mine yesterday. Took 20 minutes. But they can be quite corroded and take a bit to get loose.
 






how would I go about changing it? thanks
 






All you have to do is jack up the vehicle if you need room to get under otherwise it can be done on the ground. Just un bolt the long bolt and slide it out. The new one will come with a bolt, 4 rubber Bushings and 4 metal disk and a nut. Slide a disk on bolt then a bushing insert this into the top of the bar then a bushing then disk then metal tube then disk then bushing and inser through control arm then bushing then disk then nut. Tightened until real snug with a little squish of the bushings. That stabilizer bar is not spring loaded or anything. Hang on I'll get you a picture its not that complicated.
 






gotcha...didn't know if there was a load on it or not. Found the part at O'reilly's online. They offer one with an "over sized" 7/16" bolt that is suppose to be more durable.
 






I did mine from the bottom up this time i was in a hurry. Don't know it it makes a difference or not. Doubt it. any ways you can see how it goes here.

20160316_013408_zps41ae9urn.jpg
 






That looks right. It is cheaper at rock auto if you have time for it to be shipped. 5% off code in sticky section of this site. Paste in how did you hear about us. www.rockauto.com
 













Actually it was this one I was looking at. Seems to address a 1994-2003 Explorer problem specifically. Good to pass around. Will definitely go with the over sized bolt.

http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_ENG-R.pdf
 






Bottom up makes a difference, a good difference. That way the threaded portion of the bolt, and the nut, are up higher and subjected to less road spray so they rust less, so you are less likely to need a saw or grinder to get it off next time, but there may not be a next time.

There is only a load on it if you jack up only one side at a time, so either jack up both sides equally, or don't jack it up.

All else equal, a bolt that's more durable due to being oversized is a good idea, if the cost difference isn't much, but in the link you gave the bolt and nut look like they aren't heat treated so it may be no better than next size down heat treated bolt. I state not looking heat treated because although they mention cadmium plating, which is usually found on heat treated bolts, it's only on the sleeve and washers, not the bolt or nut themselves.

Then again it's a 20 y/o vehicle. If you get another 20 out of OEM grade bolts instead of high spec bolts, that's probably longer than the vehicle will be around, but the cost difference isn't much.
 






Actually it was this one I was looking at. Seems to address a 1994-2003 Explorer problem specifically. Good to pass around. Will definitely go with the over sized bolt.

http://fme-cat.com/livedocs/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_ENG-R.pdf
Your call. The blue Moog bushings have a history of blowing out and are not sold separately. I believe Moog will likely discontinue their K7275 in the near future. If you buy them it's extremely important not to over tighten. 10-14 ft/lbs.
is about right or until they are only slightly compressed. I used the 7/16" Moog hardware with 7/16" ES poly bushings
and is by far the most cost effective handling mod I've done.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=348992

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2791778&postcount=10

This kit's another option if you need frame bushings. Good luck.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.5152
 






Thanks everyone for the input.
 


















Just get the poly bushings....

You can just go to O'Reilly's or another parts store and buy just the poly bushings made by Energy Suspension and re use the Ford bolts, washers and long center spacer.
The size needed is the " Truck Size".
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.8103
 












Went ahead and got the poly kit for both sides, lifetime warranty. I don't plan on doing much rough housing. Although I got land on a short but rough road out in the country where my future cabin is going to be. Now to get the my boy under there and get him to wrenching.
 






Are the rear ones just as easy, in that I don't need to jack it up or anything?
 









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Are the rear ones just as easy, in that I don't need to jack it up or anything?
Rear end links are more involved because they are a "dog bone" design with pressed in bushings. Grab each one or hit lightly and check for movement. If you want to replace the bushings their is often a metal sleeve inside the flanges that must be removed. If you value your time it may be feasible to just replace them for around $20 each. If the bushings aren't worn and the end links feel solid leave them be. If rebushing, DON'T chisel. Use a torch outdoors and a water bucket to catch the flaming rubber. Much easier but stinky with LOTS of smoke.

1996 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing | RockAuto
 






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