HELP! Camber/caster adjustment kit

Hi, I have searched on the forum but can't seem to find the exact info on what I need. I have a 4" suspension lift on my 1993 ford explorer and I can't seem to get my camber set (one tire is wearing on the inside) I took it to get aligned and the guy said he had adjusted it the best he could but one wheel was still sitting an a slight angle and that I would need a camber adjuster.

My question is do I need the whole kit or just one of those caster/camber bushings and if I only need the bushing which one do I get, I am not sure as some are 1º , 2º, 3º etc. There are so many versions and I really don't have a clue of which one to buy any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks

Replace them both. Napa has them. There is also a company called Moog that makes quality parts. I think Oriley's auto parts carries Moog.

From Napa, they are all $15-25 except the adjustable +/-4 degree, which are $45 each.

It depends on how far it's off, but if you get the adjustable bushings, they are adjustable so your good. If you decide to go non-adjustable, remember that 2wd and 4wd use the same bushings, but the 2wd will get more out if it. so like a 2* bushing will be something like 1.5* on a 4wd. Mostly they state both.

Also, the not adjustable kind is still adjustable. It just adjust Camber and Caster at the same time.

This video shows you how it does that..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=In31H0iBipQ&feature=player_embedded

This page shows all the different sizes SPC makes (I use SPC instead of moog) http://www.spc-tv.com/install/4x4-truck-suv/32-23100.html

If you get a Camber bushing that is too big you will have to use the left over Camber as Caster adjustment. Its not the end of the world but if you get the caster way too far off, funky things can happen.

Look at the Bushing they put in now, Are there any numbers on the top? I found a lot of shops don't know they can get bigger cams.

~Mark

Thanks! I went with the adjustable bushings, I got the Ingalls Fully Adjustable Camber/Caster Bushings, got them from import auto performance for $49.90 (for both), now I just have to wait for them to arrive! thanks again for the help!

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=NCP2643950_0161962316

just thought id give an update for everyone looking for alignment bushings.

I did the f150 spacer/diy shackles on my 1992 and the tires sat in a v formation enough to notice it with you look at the front of the truck so I picked up some napa auto parts alignment bushings (I got both sides) +/- 4* and just finished the passenger side using a bubble level and im pretty impressed woth them so far. They were $66 and some change out the door and im sure ill have no problem getting it aligned at a shop.

so i have a 5.5 lift and its a little stink bug so im going to put washers up front about 3 or 4 on each but i need new camber / caster does it matter what degree or just get all adjustable ones.

The degree rating matters if you want to get it dead on...but you'll also need an alignment machine to get that accurate. A machine will tell you how many degrees out of adjustment the camber is from factory spec and then you replace the existing bushing with an appropriate one.

You can get a "close enough" reading if you use one of those all-in-one bushing and a level / tape measure / string but keeping steering geometry as close to stock is important so I'd recommend a trip to a local shop and let them handle the measurement and bushing replacement.

Most shops don't even know how to adjust the adjustable ones.they should stick a 0* bushing in it and see how far off it is.that will tell you what bushing to use or to set the adjustable ones at.

I did the coil spring spacers on my 94 XLT and took it to 4Wheel Parts for alignment. They had all the shims and expertise and did the alignment for under $150...

jd4242 said:

Most shops don't even know how to adjust the adjustable ones.they should stick a 0* bushing in it and see how far off it is.that will tell you what bushing to use or to set the adjustable ones at.

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Or they don't want to be bothered doing the alignment they're being paid for.......

As you pointed out, the right way is to setup the machine and measure, with the bushings in a neutral/zeroed position, make the needed adjustments, then re-check, adjust again if needed, etc.... They want to setup it up without touching the bushings, hoping that everything will be "close enough" within specs to call it done and get paid for nothing.

I hate that I have to intentionally make sure the alignment is so screwed up that they are forced to do something. I would like to know where it was at before, but if I do that, and its close, then its a fight to get them to do anything Why should I get an argument when I insist that "close enough" is not good enough. There is no "acceptable range" with me. I want each wheel dead nuts in the middle, or exactly where I say I want it. That's what they're being paid for.....

4x4explorer1994 said:

so i have a 5.5 lift and its a little stink bug so im going to put washers up front about 3 or 4 on each but i need new camber / caster does it matter what degree or just get all adjustable ones.

Click to expand...

There is no way to tell you what to buy ahead of time (other than adjustable).

I've given up on alignment shops being able to align TTB front ends. I bought my own spc91000 so I could measure my own Camber (& caster, but I don't try to adjust that). I use the string method in conjunction with tape measures to set my toe. I figure I've saved $600+ on alignment since I got the spc tool. The local alignment shops basically said it would have a sidewalk warranty (including the shop that does race cars). Once I hit the sidewalk the warranty was up.. None of the shops could get the alignment right.

Now, to do it yourself.... Like JD4242 said, you need to figure how far off it is by setting the cams you have to 0 or installing 0 degree cams. Now you can order the Cams you need.

In my case I ordered the largest Camber adjustment I could get and used the excess Camber adjustment as caster adjustment. I have a few other sets of Cams but I haven't needed them.

Also, if your going to do it yourself you need camber plates. Basically it is just something to sit the front wheels on so it can unload the suspension. Some people use a Magazine or some linolium(sp?) tiles wil salt between them. I use a couple pieces of sheet metal with bearing grease between them.

I recorded a video of setting the Camber on the X.. One of these days I'll edit it and get it onto youtube, but its really not that hard to do. I do the alignment on the Mustang and the Explorer and I've set the rear camber on the Honda (front was fine).

~Mark

offroad.gearhead said:

I did the coil spring spacers on my 94 XLT and took it to 4Wheel Parts for alignment. They had all the shims and expertise and did the alignment for under $150...

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That's still a little too high, even if they also supplied adjustable bushings; as they should cost about $25 each.

I know a good alignment machine is expensive, but a decent mechanic should be able to this in about an hour. Granted, frozen bolts/rust dictate more time/money.

Also, if your going to do it yourself you need camber plates. Basically it is just something to sit the front wheels on so it can unload the suspension. Some people use a Magazine or some linolium(sp?) tiles wil salt between them. I use a couple pieces of sheet metal with bearing grease between them.
~Mark

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Does something that simple really work? I've heard of those methods before, but it seems like they would provide very little movement, certainly far less then proper "turn plates"

Maniak said:

There is no way to tell you what to buy ahead of time (other than adjustable).

I've given up on alignment shops being able to align TTB front ends. I bought my own spc91000 so I could measure my own Camber (& caster, but I don't try to adjust that). I use the string method in conjunction with tape measures to set my toe. I figure I've saved $600+ on alignment since I got the spc tool. The local alignment shops basically said it would have a sidewalk warranty (including the shop that does race cars). Once I hit the sidewalk the warranty was up.. None of the shops could get the alignment right.

Now, to do it yourself.... Like JD4242 said, you need to figure how far off it is by setting the cams you have to 0 or installing 0 degree cams. Now you can order the Cams you need.

In my case I ordered the largest Camber adjustment I could get and used the excess Camber adjustment as caster adjustment. I have a few other sets of Cams but I haven't needed them.

Also, if your going to do it yourself you need camber plates. Basically it is just something to sit the front wheels on so it can unload the suspension. Some people use a Magazine or some linolium(sp?) tiles wil salt between them. I use a couple pieces of sheet metal with bearing grease between them.

I recorded a video of setting the Camber on the X.. One of these days I'll edit it and get it onto youtube, but its really not that hard to do. I do the alignment on the Mustang and the Explorer and I've set the rear camber on the Honda (front was fine).

~Mark

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I did mine for years this way.I now have access to a rack alignment are a piece of cake IF and IF you know how to properly do a ttb.they are a little harder, regular car I can do in mins, why shops over charge and still do it wrong blows my mind

Carguy3J said:

Does something that simple really work? I've heard of those methods before, but it seems like they would provide very little movement, certainly far less then proper "turn plates"

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Sheet metal and bearing grease works really well. When I lower the front end onto the plates the front end unloads easily. Heck, I can push truck side to side on the plates.

~Mark

Carguy3J said:

Or they don't want to be bothered doing the alignment they're being paid for.......

As you pointed out, the right way is to setup the machine and measure, with the bushings in a neutral/zeroed position, make the needed adjustments, then re-check, adjust again if needed, etc.... They want to setup it up without touching the bushings, hoping that everything will be "close enough" within specs to call it done and get paid for nothing.

I hate that I have to intentionally make sure the alignment is so screwed up that they are forced to do something. I would like to know where it was at before, but if I do that, and its close, then its a fight to get them to do anything Why should I get an argument when I insist that "close enough" is not good enough. There is no "acceptable range" with me. I want each wheel dead nuts in the middle, or exactly where I say I want it. That's what they're being paid for.....

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haha....it just isn't that easy man.....

I have been doing alignments for the past 20 years, and I am very good at it.

alot of times, "close enough" is as much as you can go..!!!!!

and for ALL practical reasons.....in no way shape or form does ANY shop
put any control arms or "bushings" at zero before the alignment.
(there is no such spec anyways BY ANY MANUF.)

bottom line is....older cars and trucks tend to have HIDDEN problems, that
you may never find, (unless you start replacing front end parts one by one)
keeping things from being spec.....it only takes one big pot hole or curb hit.

just sayin

tenny said:

haha....it just isn't that easy man.....

I have been doing alignments for the past 20 years, and I am very good at it.

alot of times, "close enough" is as much as you can go..!!!!!

and for ALL practical reasons.....in no way shape or form does ANY shop
put any control arms or "bushings" at zero before the alignment.
(there is no such spec anyways BY ANY MANUF.)

bottom line is....older cars and trucks tend to have HIDDEN problems, that
you may never find, (unless you start replacing front end parts one by one)
keeping things from being spec.....it only takes one big pot hole or curb hit.

just sayin

Click to expand...

And I'm just sayin.......I would never have you align my vehicle...there is NO such thing as close enough on a rack..PERIOD! !!!. Problems may come up driving but on a rack there is always a spec as long as everything is mechanically sound.you either get it within it or not..you excuse of pot holes or curbs is after the fact..only thing that can affect it is tires or worn parts which should be seen by the mechanic BEFORE an alignment is preformed. ..

haha, whatever, I mean sure....you can start grinding control arms
and strut towers, and enlongate the hole in the framem to get things
to say "0" but its impractical. that's not real world ****.

the second you take it off the rack the reading is different.

the camber reading is based on ride height with the TTB.

simply going over a bump with change the camber...BADLY TOO.

its just a ****ty system.

but who am I..??....nobody, good luck and enjoy

haha

tenny said:

haha, whatever

the second you take it off the rack the reading is different.

the camber reading is based on ride height with the TTB.

simply going over a bump with change the camber...BADLY TOO.

its just a ****ty system.

but who am I..??....nobody, good luck and enjoy

haha

Click to expand...

It SHOULDNT be different if everything is mechanically sound...Correct about a bump but if you know HOW to set it in the first place it won't be as bad...alignment is not based or judge from driving over bumps or off roading or after you hit a curb....

I don't know you from the next guy... but from what you are saying and the words you are using, I find it VERY hard to believe you have been doing alignments for 20 years or that your good at it..75% of ASE certified people are worse than a shade tree mechanic any day..

tenny said:

haha....it just isn't that easy man.....

I have been doing alignments for the past 20 years, and I am very good at it.

alot of times, "close enough" is as much as you can go..!!!!!

Click to expand...

Sure, if you're dealing with a mix of old/new parts, and customers who only want to fix the bare minimum. I do all my own my own work, and I make sure that everything worn is replaced, and there are no rusty/frozen bolts for the alignment guy. Everything is liberally anti-seized/greased as appropriate. I also go out of way to spend extra money on the better/easier to use aligment parts, which are pre-installed by me, before I show up. There is no excuse for sloppy work, not on a car/truck I bring in.

and for ALL practical reasons.....in no way shape or form does ANY shop
put any control arms or "bushings" at zero before the alignment.
(there is no such spec anyways BY ANY MANUF.)

Click to expand...

The instructions that came with the moog double adjustment bushings, for my '93 Ranger 4x4 specifically state to do just that. No, that procedure is not applicable to all vehicles, but in the case of 1st gen Explorer/Ranger TTB, that's the right way to do. The charts that come with the bushings are based on starting with a neutral/zero adjustment reading first. Those bushing do in fact have a "neutral" position, which means the bushing has no effect on alignment. At that point, you see what you have, then consult the appropriate row/column on the chart, for where you want the caster/camber, set the inner/outer bushing, then re-check.
Of course, most knucklehead grease monkeys want to ignore the instructions, and just blindly twist the adjusters till the machine "says" its close enough.
Assuming the suspension is in good shape, following the instructions properly will yield a very precise alignment.
Ignoring them, and "ham fisting" it will result in "oh well, that's the best we can do"

I have a local shop that sort of just let's me do it myself. They set it up initially, then I make the adjustment. The problem is they *****,and try to rush me, if I want to do the zero first. I also only get one shot. They start complaining if I want to fine tune it. Again, I get stuck with "close enough"

bottom line is....older cars and trucks tend to have HIDDEN problems, that
you may never find, (unless you start replacing front end parts one by one)
keeping things from being spec.....it only takes one big pot hole or curb hit.

just sayin

Click to expand...

Sure, but not when I spend THOUSANDS replacing, literally, everything in the suspension, front to back. I know its not the car/trucks fault. At least not with my cars/trucks. It's lazy or just plain bad mechanics not wanting to do the job they're being overpaid for.

I'm seriously considering this: http://www.quicktrickalignment.com/shop/
I already have a bubble caster camber gauge and toe plates. I would just need to make some kind of adapter for the bubble gauge.

However, I don't have a flat/level area to work, or turn plates. Right now, I'm working on rocky, lumpy, dirt.

Between this, and a tire machine and balancer, I'd never need to go to a shop again.