01 Sport Trac. No forward or reverse.

[duhibrokeit]

I just picked up a 01 sport trac with 95K miles, and some minor issues I think. It starts and runs well, very clean under the hood, but there is nothing when it comes to the transmission. Putting it in any gear and it makes a sound like my 7.3 turbo diesel turbo spooling down. The fluid doesn't look to burnt, but if it was mine would have been changed already. I have searched the posts, and not seen something like this. I only paid $1400 for it, and besides the trans issue, seems the only window that works is the rear, and 3 of the 4 doors you can't get in because the mechanism is broken. Expected for an Alaskan vehicle. Just looking for help on the transmission right now. The previous owner said that OD went out first, and then when it went out now, it went all at once, no nothing. From reading, I am thinking of going right to the TCC and checking ohms. Any other ideas? Thanks

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the transmission section. Other than the burned color of the fluid, was the level correct? Is there a flashing O/D light? The valve body gasket might be blown or the valve body bolts could be loose. The filter could be clogged.

 

[duhibrokeit]

Update

Hi BrooklynBay,
I tried to post in the transmission section, but the newby section was the only place it would show the "new thread" link. So I posted there. Thanks for the reply. Here is the update from today.
The fluid was in the middle of the hashes.

I finally got the pan dropped all the way, with the help of my 6 wheeler winch, because I think the fwd cat has been bent back about an inch. So after that, the pan looked clean! I pulled a trailer up from OR to AK, with my 7.3 and had more stuff in it than this one does.

So, I took the filter off and it held a lot of fluid still in the VB. I was lucky they had a filter kit here in Nome, and installed that with 5 qts of fluid. The old filter would hold fluid, and not gravity drain to the other side.

Started up the rig, and had the same whine. Beings that we usually put the vehicles in N in the wintertime to circulate the fluid, I did this and let the engine run about 10 min. Slowly I started to hear the "whine/turbo spool" start to stutter and go away. It still whines a bit when I select gears, but it does move with high RPM, but not much about a foot or two. It engages into gear solid, both R and FWD gears.

Do you think I have a VB gasket blown? I have not cut open the old filter to see if there is anything in it yet. Do you think I would benefit from adjusting the bands?

I drained the transfer case after reading about the fork that sometimes breaks. There were no chunks with serial numbers on it. Just typical metallic flakes from like break in.

I am crossing my fingers on this; do you think maybe there was enough grime inside the cooler lines and torque converter that maybe the new filter clogged right away?
Appreciate the quick response! Reading your responses... right on most of the time!

 

[drdoom]

When my Torque Converter Clutch System went down, it whined like two cats getting ready to have the sex. The RPMs & engagement were exactly as you describe. The fluid was badly burnt.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316800

 

[PopRichie77]

It's doubtful that the new filter clogged already and if it did you have a serious problem.
I agree with BrooklynBay that you pull the valve body and check the gaskets and bolts. If they are ok, I would say the trans has to come out. Do a line and EPC pressure test first. It could very well be the torque converter.
Don't continue the high RPM and trying to move it, as this is only slipping the clutches and causing more wear.

 

[duhibrokeit]

Thanks for the reply. I can only go off of what the previous owner has told me.
So the filter was clogged and I have not cut it open to see if there are any gasket pieces in it yet. Which would be more likely to be damaged first, the TC or the VB gasket blowing? Heat kills both, but does one fail before the other? Will read up on the pressure test, and see if I can scrounge up the stuff to do that. I've seen natives throw away a $5k 4 wheeler because of a bad spark plug wire. It wouldn't surprise me something simple is all that is wrong I would have thought if there was slippage happening for a while I would have seen more filings in the pan, maybe not? I live in Nome, so it isn’t like I can go down town to a store and purchase a overhauled TC or get VB gaskets. Just Valvoline mercron V is $9 a quart here, so that is $50 every time I drop the pan. I don’t know if the parts store in town has a drain plug or not. Will have to do a nut, bolt and washer if not, and strain the fluid until troubleshooting is complete. Want a magnetic plug, but if I end up getting an OH trans/TC then I will have to switch it over anyways.
I really appreciate the help, but will have to wait a few days because I can't crawl in and out of the vehicle for a few days.

 

[drdoom]

Go ahead and drop the pan again, and pull the front drive-shaft first, so you don't have to get in a wrestling match with the catalytic converter. And put in a drain plug while you have it out. Look at my thread to see where I put it. I would not bother with a magnetic plug, they are overrated & overpriced, in my opinion.

Go ahead and ohm out the solenoids, although a resistance test is not a full test protocol, it could possibly red flag something.

Get a photo of the valve body. There are specific notches in the corner of the separator plate, and this might help you identify your plate, if necessary. If you have access to an inch-pounds torque wrench, you can check the valve body to main case bolts for tightness. After that, you could drop the valve body to make a visual inspection of the gaskets, but you would need fresh gaskets or separator plate to re-assemble.

As you already know, blown gaskets are a common trouble area. When my rig went down, I was hoping that was the extent of my issues...it most certainly was not.

If this **** sounds ghetto, it is. I am just trying to steer you a bit. Also, please be advised that in my VERY LIMITED EXPERIENCE, most of the crap will reside in the cooler(s) and the torque converter. Best wishes. YMMV

 

[duhibrokeit]

Filter shows good news I hope!

So I have the filter apart. Only find 2 hair like pieces of metal. There looks to be gasket material in there. There are a small few pieces a dark brown color, the other pieces are all black gasket. Trying to post pictures but it only accepts url images. So... I don't need shift kits etc... speed is 45mph outside of town, and there are only 70 miles of gravel road on each side of town. Most of the vehicles driving will be 1.3 miles to work at 35 mph.

 

[drdoom]

Dude, that is sounding like a blown gasket...less than $2.00 each.
Best wishes.

 

[duhibrokeit]

So what are the chances that there is gasket material in the VB somewhere? Worth the trouble to just exchange one, and new gasket?

 

[drdoom]

Someone posted on here a few days ago regarding a blown separator plate gasket, and they did indeed find gasket material in the passageways of the valve body.

 

[PopRichie77]

When you remove the valve body, and then remove the separator plate it is easy to see pieces of gasket material, and pick them out, also check the passages in the trans by looking up into them for gasket material. When you remove the separator plate from the valve body do not turn the valve body over or some of the L keepers and check balls will fall out. This is assuming that you find a blown out gasket. Use an old T shirt to strain the fluid until you get the problem fixed, I done this several times and it works great. Even with out a drain plug, if you use a large container you can catch the fluid.

 

[duhibrokeit]

So, I got the valve body off... I am working slow because I had back surgery 8 months ago, and can't crawl around much at all.
What I thought was gasket material, is a little bit thicker... So I am guessing a band? The gasket was blown around the reverse servo.
The entire valve body was not torqued hardly at all. i use inch lbs daily being an aircraft mechanic, and these I broke loose with my index finger and thumb on the ratchet, not 120ish in/lbs!
I ordered a new bonded separator plate and reverse servo gaskets, and if I am missing a gear, it won't bother me because it is only 1.3 miles or so to work at 35.

I've never rebuilt an automatic transmission before, so do I even want to tackle this? It might be before winter or just cough out the money to purchase an overhauled one... maybe I will luck out.

 

[duhibrokeit]

Update... installed new reverse servo and bonded seperator gasket... seems to engage better, but still slips and has the whine. Would have been nice if it was a simple fix, but still was a great deal even with needing a transmission. Thanks for everyone's help and guidance.

 

[duhibrokeit]

I think the forward band is completely broken. I just pulled the VB off again and the forward band metal tightening piece (for lack of technical words) is loose in the cavity. I didn’t even stick my finger in there while I had the VB off. Live and learn. So I have a completely broken band, right? I found a transmission with converter that has 81K with a 100 day warranty from the salvage yard in Anchorage. Now it is just a waiting game to get it up here on one of our planes.
Thanks to everyone for all the information and help that you have posted on here concerning these transmissions and the troubleshooting help with mine. I am ignorant when it comes to an automatic transmission. I read on the post about the few special tools that it takes to go through one of these. For the $250-$300 for an overhaul kit, is it worth trying to tinker with? I would love to try and rebuild one of these for a winter project, beings winters are long. Any alignment tools, I could make on the lathe if they are not tapered with dimensions. Or is it not that simple to go through it? Besides doing a psi test (to test the pump and forgot the solenoid that regulates psi), any other small test recommended prior to removing this. Hopefully it doesn’t turn into a basket case, because my buddy has the same model sport trac and could have it as a spare.
Have a great day everyone.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could rebuild your transmission yourself, and replace the bands. EBay has some good deals on parts kits & tools.

 

[drdoom]

You could rebuild your transmission yourself, and replace the bands. EBay has some good deals on parts kits & tools.

True, and the only tool I had to buy was an inch-pounds torque wrench. I made my own alignment pins & spring compressors.

The actual rebuild is not bad at all, and the R & R is the meat of the job.

 

[duhibrokeit]

So I just got my salvage yard transmission and tcase adapter. There is small gravel in the adapter housing! WTF! Ugh... have to pull that, and flush it out. I have no idea how they got gravel in there... Some people shouldn't have kids