'02 4.0 weird timing chain rattle

[bodkin1]

Where do I begin... upon startup my '02 Ranger started making a slight rattling noise from rear timing chain area (I have zeroed it in at this area) this past Thursday. What is strange, it will ONLY do it after it has been sitting for 5-10 minutes with a warm engine, like after a quick trip in either Wal Mart or some other store, until the oil pressure builds up, then it disappears after a few seconds. The rattling noise tends to be an on-off type thing, sometimes it does it, sometimes not.

However, if I let it sit for at least 15-30 minutes, or up to several hours (like if it's parked at work or overnight, ranging from 8-14 hours) it makes NO rattling noise whatsoever on a cold engine startup. The rear tensioner was replaced a couple years back.

I think as long as it doesn't do it on acceleration and the rattling being a on-off affair, I really ain't going to worry about it. It's just an annoyance IMHO.

Forgot to add: truck has 161,9xx miles. The date one the valve cover decal indicates the engine was built on May 8, 2002.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

My '02 Sport Trac with 81,000 miles does exactly what you describe. The only time it rattles is when the engine starts and at idle only when the engine is warm and has been off for 5-10 minutes. No other pattern to it, and even this happens fairly rarely, usually only in the summer.

 

[Flash]

While the chain is rattling it's chopping up your plastic chain guides.

 

[bodkin1]

I think my issue is brief lack of lubrication. I read some other thread here, that someone "bumped" the engine with the ignition key (to "lube up" the engine) right before actually starting the engine. I did that a couple of times today on impulse and had no rattling. Maybe what my truck needs is a pre-oiler.... what kind of animal is that to install?

 

[429CJ-3X2]

While the chain is rattling it's chopping up your plastic chain guides.

No doubt, but it goes away as soon as the rpms come up just a little, like anything above idle, and enough oil gets to where it needs to be. In my case it happened only a half dozen times each of the past 2 summers.

 

[koda2000]

My front chain will rattle for just a second on a cold start. Try this...

1. When you get in, put and hold the throttle pedal to the floor (this turns off the fuel injectors).

2. Turn the key to engage the starter motor and turn the engine over until you see the oil pressure gauge jump up (mine takes 7-10 seconds of cranking).

3. Lift your foot off the gas pedal and start the engine normally. See if you still hear the rattle. Mine is dead quiet if I do this first.

 

[Flash]

Maybe what my truck needs is a pre-oiler.... what kind of animal is that to install?

A pre-oiler would be great.

 

[bodkin1]

My oil of choice is Valvoline MaxLife 5W-30 and filter is a Motorcraft FL-820S. Have used a Purolator L24651 filter in the past.

Like the spark plugs, can the 4.0 SOHC be really **** about what oil filter is used?

 

[bodkin1]

No doubt, but it goes away as soon as the rpms come up just a little, like anything above idle, and enough oil gets to where it needs to be. In my case it happened only a half dozen times each of the past 2 summers.

So how's your 4.0 still holding up?

 

[bodkin1]

My front chain will rattle for just a second on a cold start. Try this...

1. When you get in, put and hold the throttle pedal to the floor (this turns off the fuel injectors).

2. Turn the key to engage the starter motor and turn the engine over until you see the oil pressure gauge jump up (mine takes 7-10 seconds of cranking).

3. Lift your foot off the gas pedal and start the engine normally. See if you still hear the rattle. Mine is dead quiet if I do this first.

Good tip...

 

[koda2000]

Good tip...

I'm planning on installing a pre-oilier pump to maximize the number of miles I squeak out my my SOHC (184,000 miles), but until I get around to it, doing this makes me grimace less when I start the engine.

 

[koda2000]

Good tip...

I'm planning on installing a pre-oiling pump to maximize the number of miles I squeak out my my SOHC (184,000 miles), but until I get around to it, doing this makes me grimace less when I start the engine.

BTW, I have no idea how my response posted twice...

 

[429CJ-3X2]

So how's your 4.0 still holding up?

Runs like a new one! Like I said, it only has 81,000 - actually 82,200- miles, and this rattle is very random and has happened only about a dozen times spread over 2 summers. It seems odd that it only happens under the very conditions I would think it least likely to occur - when the engine is warm and has been shut off only 5-10 minutes in warm/hot weather.

I also use the Motorcraft FL 820S filter, with Motorcraft synthetic blend oil.

I've thought about starting this thread several times, or adding to some other thread talking about the rattle.

 

[koda2000]

I think my issue is brief lack of lubrication. I read some other thread here, that someone "bumped" the engine with the ignition key (to "lube up" the engine) right before actually starting the engine. I did that a couple of times today on impulse and had no rattling. Maybe what my truck needs is a pre-oiler.... what kind of animal is that to install?

In my case it is a lack of oil pressure to the front hydraulic tensioner. I replaced it and added the oil restrictor to the front oil galley, as well as switching to Mobil 1 0W30 for the winter. This helped, but the oil pressure to the front tensioner is lost after the engine sits. I plan to install an electric pump, which will draw oil from the oil pan and pressurize the engine through an oil filter adapter before starting. Of course it's not that simple to do, but I've sourced most all the parts for about $200 and a fellow ST sub forum member has installed an almost identical pre-oiling system with good success. In the meantime, building oil pressure using the starter motor provides a work-around. Actually I find that I can achieve quite starts with as little as 4 seconds of cranking, as it is apparently not necessary to see the oil pressure gauge pop up first.

 

[joecrna]

I don't think adding a pre luber will solve your problem, but it certainly won't hurt. If the chain is rattling, I believe a guide has already failed. Having said that, mine has 120,000 hard miles since the chains started rattling and they haven't failed yet. I fully realize it is just a matter of time and they will likely fail at the most inopertune time. The engine will be complete toast. Then I'll be forced to make a decision. Build a high dollar HiPo NA engine with little increase in power or attempt a CA smog legal engine change.

Fix it soon or risk total failure.

 

[C420sailor]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that's how the 'fun' started on my '98 Ex. I drove her to 202k before swapping in a newer engine, and a minor teardown revealed an exploded front camchain cassette. The tensioner was fully extended in order to take up the slack. It was enough to keep the chain from jumping teeth, but not enough to keep the death rattle at bay.

 

[Robman]

I really like Ford, but I need to vent.

I can tolerate the 4.0 OHV engine because it's reliable.

The 4.0L SOHC is such a fuel munching limp wristed high revving time bomb piece of sh*t. 205hp out of 4 liters of single over head cam, what honestly is up with that? It's a smooth motor when it's working fine, that's all it gets from me.

While I'm at it, I hate the 5r55e with a passion also. I have no idea how Sport-Trac people survive, as I'm pretty sure that's the only combo to chose from for their first gen.

Sorry guys... end rant

I just got another 2000 Sport for a really good deal, I had my eye on it for quite sometime and finally the owner walked up to me whilst we were at the gas station and asked if I wanted a parts truck, his needed a new fuel pump.

It's a green '00 Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC, 5r55e. It's had a new trans recently and the engine/chassis only has 193 000 Kilometers and the frame is still black, not rusty. I cut a hole and put a new(used) fuel pump in and everything works fine. The engine has the rattle at cold start though. Anyway I got it for $300 - Canadian, so obviously it was a great deal but it angers me that it has the motor/tranny combo that it does. I found the fuel pump laying in the back of an ex at the scrap yard($20). I blew a rear brake line towing it ( didn't need to tow it far, went slow) and the first 10 feet I moved it once I got it running the trans cooler lines right under the rad were rotted and yakked 4 liters of fluid out. I guess I didn't mention it sat in 1 spot for a couple years on grass, anyway that's all fixed..

If I hadn't needed to buy 4 liters of synthetic ( I use synthetic) trans fluid for like $12 a bottle I'd only have like $320 into this thing including the purchase price. Got a good - still coated brake line from the scrap yard for $5.

That's my story for today.

Oh yea, and of course it needed new sway bar links. +$35

 

[bodkin1]

Well... the off/on rattle issue continued to bug me, so about an hour ago pulled it into my shop and decided to investigate. Jacked up the right front, removed the tire, inner fender/splash shield (removing the inner fender gave me very GREAT access to the tensioner), and finally the "new" tensioner. Found this one had very little spring tension, especially for a OEM Ford one. Would have been better putting a el cheapo Ebay one on instead. So went ahead and put the original one back on, that had more considerable tension than the replacement, and so far no more rattling upon startup. I made sure to prime up the tensioner well in oil before re-installing it, to the point it had no play in the spring, and torqued it down to 60 pounds.