02 Explorer XLT help with install

[jmcdevitt79]

I have:
2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 - 4x4

Diagram:

--------need to hook up---------------------------------
2 - 30A LED switches
1 - KITT voice box
1 - 30A ATC Fuse holder
1 - 15A ATC Fuse
1 - ATM Fuse Tap
1 - 15A Aux Socket
1 - 320W Xantrex XPower 400 Plus Inverter
2 - 1.3W 80mm Blue LED Fans
1 - Powerstrip
1 - 8W Digital Converter Box
1 - RCA 1450 Flat Amplified Antenna (Input: 120AC 6vA and Output: 12VDC 100mA)
1 - Slimline PS2 (Input: 100-240V 1.5A Output: 8.5V 5.65A)

-------Have alread hooked up-----------------------------
1 - Boss BV-7250T Stereo (~3.5" screen built in) 80Wx4
1 - 10" Innovatek flipdown monitor connected to radio and radio's power
2 - 15" flat LED lights that connect to radio's power source
1 - bulldog security talking alarm connected to battery

I wanted to write everything I am hooking up or have already hooked up so if anyone has a better way to do this they have all the info.

Ok so my thoughts are this:
I was thinking about utilizing the 300W inverter by just plugging into a new aux port. The instructions say the adapter will only go to 150W and I can't open the adapter to see if it has a fuse or not (spring loaded). So, I don't know if they are saying that IS the max or if that is what they assume most cigarette lighters will be. Assuming they are just approximating I was going to put in this 15A Aux Port and hope to get 180W out of my inverter.

my original calculations were:
1. adding up the output wattage of the devices
2.6W(2fans)+8W(DTV)+1.2W(Amp. Ant)+48.025(PS2)+??(KITT Voice Box) = 59.825W * 20% for peak = 71.79W (Max)

but after talking to an electrical engineer he told me to add up the input not output
Input:
2.6W(2fans)+8W(DTV)+6W(Amp. Ant - apparently volt Amps will be the same as Watts)+150W(PS2)+??+(KITT Voice Box) = ~166.6W) * 20% = 199.92W (Max)

Do you think the 12AWG, 15A Socket, 15A inline fuse, and a power side to a fuse in the fuse box via a tap is an alright way to go or am I asking for problems? Is there a better way of doing it? If so, and I have to run wires from battery through the firewall(by drilling as I don't see a grommet I could use), what gauge of wire would I need to use for the 300W inverter going say 15ft? Would I need a groundloop isolator then?

I am already suprised that the stereo, flipdown monitor, and 2 rope LEDs work off of the radio just fine...maybe that is due to the Explorer having more then 1 fuse for the radio.

Sorry for the long post. I have been working on this project too long and am more confused then when I started. Any guidance would be great, thanks! Sorry, if I missed some thread that helps shed light on this.

 

[jmcdevitt79]

I am also understanding that if I want to run it to the battery that I should be fine with 10AWG wire but I want to make sure it is THWN type. Any thoughts? Should I go straight to the battery and then hook up a relay so it shuts off when the car does or is the switch by itself fine (assuming I always remember to turn it off)? Any schematics recommended? I just want this finished and am stumped on the best/easiest way to do this setup.

 

[pepaudio]

For the power inverter, I'd go from the battery. You can use Vector part#VEC083D for the cables. They support up to 1200W of peak power and should do the job.

Why do you need a power strip? If you're only using two outlets, couldn't you just plug in both 110 needs to the power inverter outlets? To me, adding a power strip seems unnecessary.