04 Ranger "Kicking" at Highway Speeds | Ford Explorer Forums

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04 Ranger "Kicking" at Highway Speeds

hendersondayton

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February 8, 2012
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Ranger FX4 Off-Road
I am not really sure how to explain this so I will just give it a whirl.

2004 Ranger FX4 OffRoad. 73K Miles.

I was riding along at about 65 this morning (30degrees)...was driving only for 5-8miles...truck was only running maybe 15min up to that point....when it "kicked" really hard...or...maybe "locked up" is a better way to explain it....anyway....i drove a total of about 50miles all highway and it did it 4 times all together...

Got in at lunch time....drove it around 45mph in the city and got nothing...

I checked the transmission fluid..it is good. I had people tell me it could be low/bad transfer case fluid. I had another guy who has owned about 3 rangers in his lifetime and he has known them to "kick" a little when going uphill and accelerating.

I have no idea what is wrong. Thoughts?
 



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Unless you where driving with 4WD engaged the transfer case should not be causing the problem. I have never had this happen on my 02 Ranger 4.0L. Something similar did happen to my 89 Ranger 2.9L a couple times while driving down the freeway when it was fairly new. After that couple times it never did it again during the nearly 200,000 miles that I owned it. It was like the engine just shut off and turned back on quickly.

Does it feel like the engine is shutting off and on quickly or something in the drive train is binding?
 






You either: (a) encountered a lean mixture condition, perhaps due to a vacuum leak or (b) you have one cylinder with excessive carbon buildup. I'm pretty sure you have detonation happening and it will destroy your motor if you let it continue.
 






I am not sure if I can judge it as a loss of power as much as a good kick in the pants. The instance I explained in my OP was a good hard kick the first time...and a few smaller kicks later.

The check engine light has been on since I got the truck in June. I had the code checked a few times by a few different people and each said it was an emissions issue that was 90% explained by a faulty gas cap. Gas cap has been on tight the entire time...checked the seal...doesn't seem too bad.

I have noticed in the last couple days that the RPM flutters when it idles in park.

Probably not related, I think I have a fuse panel issue as I blow a 5amp fuse every time I set the mirror adjustment switch to the driver side and try to adjust the driver mirror...i fixed that my leaving the switch on the passenger side and adjusting the driver side mirror manually. I assume an entire panel issue because the only place the heater vents is on defrost setting....when i turn the switch to blow heat out the floor or the dashboard, nothing happens.

In addition, I have not been able to get the airbox lid to seat properly since I had it. I have it clamped down now but the clamps come off frequently and the airbox lid just sits there.
 






You either: (a) encountered a lean mixture condition, perhaps due to a vacuum leak or

I had a friend tell me it could have been bad gas. I filled up the morning before at a grocery store gas station.
 






Your heater panel problem is a vacuum issue. Defrost is the default when the vacuum switching system is not functioning properly. That could be a vacuum line is disconnected (or plugged) or the vacuum reservoir check valve is defective. There are other things that can cause it also but these are the first things to check.

A disconnected vacuum line could contribute to your other problem.
 












The "kick" i was feeling could be a result of a disconnected/plugged vacuum line?

I guess you don't get what I'm saying: The "kick", (as you call it), is detonation on one cylinder. Google "detonation" and learn why it is a bad thing. Your disconnected vacuum lines is probably a sign of a totaled/reconstructed truck where the person doing the work made mistakes. The check engine light isn't a decoration, nor is it a map reading light - it means there is something wrong. So get serious or you'll be posting questions on how to swap a motor.

Autozone will read the codes for you for free - it's a start.
 






A disconnected vacuum line is a vacuum leak. This is a source of unmeasured air to the engine. That can cause all kinds of problems because the computer doesn't know the proper signals to send out while trying to control the engine. Can it cause a "kick"? I don't know. I still don't even know what the "kick" is.

A plugged vacuum line to the heater panel will not cause any problems with the engine. You just will not have any control of the air distribution in the cab.
 






I have an 04 Level II. I had a similar problem when it was new. A dealer looked at it and found a bad plug/wire. I have not had the problem since 125K miles.
 






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