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0442 Code - EGR Help

Majisto

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 27, 2002
Messages
877
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City, State
Austin, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT
The check engine light came on this morning, and my dad told me about it, so I decided to go get the codes read during my lunch break. I got a 0442 code, and apprently it's a small evaporation leak.

What does this mean exactly? The guy at Autozone pointed out to me a small EGR box on the side of the engine that said was probably the culprit. There's probably a small leak somewhere. Is this very serious? I know the EGR re-circulates the exhaust gas back into the engine, so I guess it's somewhat important.

Anyone else have experience with this problem?
 



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Listen to advice where ever you can

But, don't always take it. This is not an EGR code. More likely it is the vent solenoid for the gas tank. I had that code with my 97 and for that year it is located above the spare tire with the charcoal canister. Mine was stuck open because the solenoid rusted to pieces. Water gets sprayed up there. It could also be that you didn't tighten the gas cap. Maybe it will go away in a week. Seems a little new to have the solenoid go bad unless you've been in some deep dirty water. This won't cause engine performance problems.
 






Well I may have a 2000, but it already has 85K miles, which is a lot more than most 2000s i've seen, so it could be the solenoid. How easy and cheap is it to replace?
 






FORD CERTIFIED TECH

Code P0442 evaporative system small leak. I fix that code all the time. It can be a number of things it just means you have a very small leak in your evap system. I replace a lot of fuel filler caps for this code. At my dealer I hook up a smoke machine to the evap system and then command the vent solenoid shut. Pressurize the system next with smoke and wherever you find smoke, you find the leak. If it is not the gas cap just and you don't see any lines that have rubbed through, take it to your local Ford dealer and pay your $75 diag fee to have them diagnose it for you then repair it yourself if its simple. I have people do that to me all the time including tons of independent shops who only throw parts at cars (I call it shotgun = throw every part in the system with the code and then when it still aint fixed bring it to me scratching there head and pay to me to diag it for em).:cool:
 






FORD CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN

Remember after you repair, disconnect the battery for about 2 to 3 minutes to reset the Keep Alive Memory in the computer so that the check engine light goes off. If the problem is not fixed and still exist then the light will come back on after the evaporative monitor runs and your evap system fails its test.:D
 






If you wan home grown

Drop the spare tire and remove the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the charcoal cannister assembly. There is one electrical connecton to the solenoid and 2 hoses in a Y configuration with easy disconnects. The reason I blindly suggest this is my plate was almost rusted through. Powder coatig is great but once it starts to rust it traps water and destroys itself even faster. Mine was paper thin so you might want to touch up some ust spots. Once the assembly is out, you can apply power to the solenoid and listen for a click. If you hear it it is probably ok. With two people, you could be more creative with the test. When power is applied, the valve closes off. I recommend that you always test solenoids with a brake lamp in series. The lamp limits the current in case you accidently short out or the solenoid has a built in diode. The solenoid is about $36 from dealer. Between this test, general inspection of the hoses, and replacing the gas cap the problem will be likely solved for less than than the $75 diagnostic.
 






Thanks OperaHouse. When it stops raining here, i'll be sure to go check it out. How easy is the gas cap to replace? Seems like it would be a pretty easy job.
 






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