100,000 Mile Club

[Nonoy]

122,000 exactly today

I have a 1997 and I hit 122.000 miles already and running good!

 

[Sonic K]

116,000 on my '94 XLT. It's starting to ride like a lumber wagon though. Time for some new shocks

 

[S. Allen]

I've got 100K+ on my 95 too!

...actually its the wife's ride

(but...my 91 Ranger has 175K on it too!)

Our 95 XLT 4x4 has 130,000 miles on it and other than the awful auto tranny that went ka-boom at 112K and the front end that is hard to keep aligned, the Explorer runs really good. The Ranger, however, has been a bit more reliable steed, due to its standard tranny, though.

We too plan on keeping the 95Ex for quite a long time, because we don't care for the new Explorers (hey, real 4x4s don't have independent rear-ends!).

Besides, as long as it runs good, theres nothing else out there that is as appealing. Other SUVs are either too ugly (whats up with that Buick thing?...yuck!), too expensive (the 4Runner/Range Rover) or too big (Tahoes/Expeditions) or too small (CRV/Escape/Rav-4).

...our 95 Explorer is just right.
(...and it has REAL metal bumpers too!)

-SA

 

[JR 91Sport]

My '91 has 151K on her. Original 5spd allthough she's starting to wear (forks are worn and blows out of 3rd hard enough to break knuckles if your hands in the way). Thought about getting rid of her a few months ago but decided to sell the 'Stang instead. The X has been the best car I've ever owned and I've owned 20+, also best one for the money ($5500 @ 84K miles 3yrs ago). The rear diff howls like the wind under 60mph, the spider gears are worn bad, and theres lots of squeaks and rattles but she keeps on running and towing so I've decided to keep her. May just see her to the end, resale value is no way near what sentimental value is. Duraglas, free stainless and cheap paint keep her road legal.

JR

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Closing in on 200K!! Orig tranny (still solid) with on the spot fluid changes. Cracked two heads from Prestone radiator flush--NEVER EVER USE THAT CRAP!! Remove the t-stat, replace housing and flip the lower rad hose up and flush with hose water for a good 3-5 minutes. Once a year unless you use Dex-cool and are maintenance happy; and add Water Wetter, a good idea. Been burning a little oil so I am switching to Mobil 1 10/30 syn. from Q-State. She just doesn't seem to like it. Found engine at reconditionedengines.com for $1199 if I decide to do it (5yr/100K warranty). I'll see if the syn oil slows the burn down or stops it. Opened airbox, K&N, 9mm wires and Motorcraft Plat. plugs, DynoMax Super flo exhaust and cat, with Bilsteins and Hellwig sways on the way. How about bushings?? Anyone have preferences of Energy, Hyperflex or Prothane and where to get for XLT 2wd? Happy trails...

 

[01EB5.0]

Originally posted by rossneag
Closing in on 200K!! Orig tranny (still solid) with on the spot fluid changes. Cracked two heads from Prestone radiator flush--NEVER EVER USE THAT CRAP!! Remove the t-stat, replace housing and flip the lower rad hose up and flush with hose water for a good 3-5 minutes. Once a year unless you use Dex-cool and are maintenance happy; and add Water Wetter, a good idea. Been burning a little oil so I am switching to Mobil 1 10/30 syn. from Q-State. She just doesn't seem to like it. Found engine at reconditionedengines.com for $1199 if I decide to do it (5yr/100K warranty). I'll see if the syn oil slows the burn down or stops it. Opened airbox, K&N, 9mm wires and Motorcraft Plat. plugs, DynoMax Super flo exhaust and cat, with Bilsteins and Hellwig sways on the way. How about bushings?? Anyone have preferences of Energy, Hyperflex or Prothane and where to get for XLT 2wd? Happy trails...

First off, welcome to the site! I am fron St. Charles, IL (40 miles west of Chicago).

You say that it is buring oil and you switch to synthetic. Did you know that synthetic will cause the engine to burn MORE oil over using conventionial? This is true for worn engines. my engine ahs 110K and doesn;t burn any oil, but it's been living on synthetic for 30,000+ miles. If you are having the oil consumption problems I would switch to regular petrolium oil or a synthetic blend and see if the consumption doesn;t stop. The 4.0L engine is very durable and should last 300,000 miles if it was cared for well.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

I have been using Quaker S*** 5-30 so the upgrade to 10-30 syn may help out. Ill bump up to 20W if she is still burning oil and see what happens.

 

[01EB5.0]

All I was saying is don;t use synthetic. synthetic will cause more burning of oil then regular "conventional" oil. synthetic flows past the piston rings and other seals in worn engines much easier then conventional oil. if you switch to 10W30 regular conventional oil I will venture a guess that your oil consumption will be almost eliminated.
Just a suggestion....

 

[MadeInJapan]

Try Valvoline Maxlife...it's great for older engines

 

[JOSEPHOUYSON]

OH the miles

my 1992 2x4 explorer has 220,000 miles. Runs great and never mechanicaly been touched. She still starts on the first crank. She has reacently aquird some attention, but only miner. The powersteering pump plastic fill tank is leaking dripidy dropidy, and my power windows have falled. However this summer is turnaround date for my baby. She will recieve 4x4 system along with body and suspinsion lift for a total of 7 inches, new alloys, 35" grips, and some lower gears. Also plans for a cam and whatever else my finachial situation at that time will allow for. (probly an engine overhall kit so i wont have to mess with it again for another 250,000 miles)ha

 

[RTStork]

Originally posted by rossneag
Cracked two heads from Prestone radiator flush--NEVER EVER USE THAT CRAP!!

Can you explain how the radiator flush cracked the heads? I've used it before and haven't had any problems but now I'm a little leary.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

I am told it leaves a caustic solution behind if you don't flush everything out. It ate at the seal/gasket, I had two overheatings and then one morning after running errands I parked the truck and coolant started dripping, like a very slow pour, from the back side of the block. TYVFM ($1600). So, here's how to fix. Drain all coolant. Take off t-stat housing and remove t stat. Replace housing without t stat (just two easy bolts on the 91-94s are ok for this part). Loosen lower rad hose and turn so it faces up (watch fan). Stick garden hose into lwr rad hose and turn on. Turn on truck and run heater on high. Let it go for a good 3-5 minutes or until crystal clear. Turn off truck, then hose and let drain. Replace t stat (I prefer Motorcraft actually, more consistent and made in Germany) and any hoses you want. Fill back up w/coolant, distilled water and water wetter. Presto.

 

[jimbo74]

i broke into the 100000 mile club!!!!!!!! and the truck and tranny is still going strong....

 

[unpredictable1]

my 93 Eddie Bauer has only 97k miles on her

 

[Limited Ex]

Just turned 108,000 miles old a couple of weeks ago. Original tranny and engine. Biggest thing to happen (so far....knock on wood) was my radiator blew. Cracked right down the side. Other than that not anything big. Just the main things: battery, oil, plugs and wires, oh and by the way I highly suggest the removal and THOROUGH cleaning of the intake manifold. I did that last Saturday and it is quite wonderful! Went through 3 cans of carb and throttle body cleaner and it was not completely clean. Need to buy one of those big buckets of that stuff and let it soak.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

I am thinking of cleaning intake manifold but have never done it. I've done almost everything a DIY can do on my 91 so I think I'm up to the challenge if not too difficult. Can anyone walk me through the basics and amount of time needed, special tools, etc. Thanks a million, glad to be a member.

 

[leebo]

Dead Link Removed

Reading this thread mine seems "low miles" Just hit the milestone today.

 

[Limited Ex]

Mine is 7 years old and carbon was seriously built up inside the manifold, so cleaning yours might not hurt! It took me about 5 hours, but that included posting messages on the forum along the way, scanning my Haynes, and cleaning myself up. The only thing that scared me was the hose (vacuum check valve) coming from the brake booster to the intake manifold. It had some pressure to it when I took it off, but that was okay. Once relieved, it did not affect anything during or after its removal and re-installation. But everything else is just disconnect and remember where it goes. Especially the vacuum lines, mark those! I used black and white zip ties to mark the line with the corresponding port on the manifold. Oh, and buy plenty of cleaner!! See if you can get a bucket of it to soak in, but make sure all gaskets are off if you go that route! Other than that, no special tools, just a screwdriver, sockets, and a ratchet. And pliers to remove the brake hose clamp.

 

[tango_28]

Just hit 102,000 on my 96 xlt, the only thing done on the explorer are the brakes and a tune up. It's getting better gas mileage now at 22highway 17 city. Change the oil every 5000 miles with Mobile one.

 

[Robb]

not already................