127K miles, 5.0 AWD. Should I use synthetic or synthetic blend oil?

[rs2k]

I have a 5.0 AWD Explorer with 127K miles. I want to switch to synthetic oiil. There are no apparent oil leaks. Should I use synthetic or a synthetic blend oil?

 

[FIND]

Since this has been discussed 2156 million times and the answer can be found any of billions of places on the internet...

Your engine doesn't know the difference.

You can change between conventional and synthetic oil just as easily as you can change between grey and white underwear.

The only difference is the ability for the oil to hold additives in suspension over time and under stresses. Synthetic is better at it because the hydrocarbon chains are all closer to equal and ideal length. The additive packages between synthetic and conventional have been the same since the 80s. There were slight differences between Synthetics and conventionals in the early 80s, but that was due to the prevalence of esthers that caused some issues with some people.

If you want to switch to synthetic, then do so. If you want to use semi-synthetic, then do so. You don't need to follow any special procedures or anything else.

 

[rs2k]

Since this has been discussed 2156 million times and the answer can be found any of billions of places on the internet...

Yes, the problem is there are 2156 billion different answers for 215.6 million different engines. My experience with oils is it is application and engine specific and the search feature returns a lot of junk when searching for synthetic oil.

I also know mixing synthetic and non synthetic oils can cause problems. I've seen it with my own eyes. I also know how unbelievably well synthetics work VS non synthetics in 2-strokes... but those are a different beast. I only ever ran Amsoil Synthetic in my 2-stroke aircraft engines.

Thanks for the info.

 

[FIND]

Yes, the problem is there are 2156 billion different answers for 215.6 million different engines. My experience with oils is it is application and engine specific and the search feature returns a lot of junk when searching for synthetic oil.

I also know mixing synthetic and non synthetic oils can cause problems. I've seen it with my own eyes. I also know how unbelievably well synthetics work VS non synthetics in 2-strokes... but those are a different beast. I only ever ran Amsoil Synthetic in my 2-stroke aircraft engines.

Thanks for the info.

I sold oil for several years... trust me when I say this is not true.

If you are talking about mixing them when it comes to aviation and 2-strokes... well that is a little different, but for automotive applications, there is no difference.

I recommend www.bobistheoilguy.com for more reading on this and many other oil related subjects.

 

[Petek]

I run mobil 1 5w30 in my 5.0, it just turned over 250 000kms with zero issues.

 

[2TimingTom]

I'm with FIND.

I have heard that if your motor is all gunked up, the detergant agents in synthetic can dislodge those gunked up deposits (which may be plugging a leak) and seals will leak...... but who knows if that is true or not.

I know when I took my oil fill cap off my 1982 Celebrity, it looked like the beach after an oil spill but any engine since then has been clean.

And rs2k- I use to own a 1998 5.0 Mountainer in Wichita, KS..... Do you work for one of the airplane companies there? I started at Cessna, moved to Boeing-then to Midwestern-and then finally Spirit, then to Airbus and then back to Spirit. All in the course of about 6 years.

 

[rs2k]

I used to work for Ratheon / Hawker / Beechcraft. Aircraft jobs aren't really stable enough and have far too many politics for my taste though. I much prefer working for a small business.

 

[koda2000]

There is no issue with switching back and forth between synthetic and convectional oil. Synthetic oils are made from conventional oil stocks. I run Motorcraft synthetic-blend in both my 5.0's, use Motorcraft filters, and change my oil every 4000-5000 miles. I feel it's good enough. If these were brand new vehicles that I planned on keeping forever, I might run full synthetic, but as I bought both of mine used, don't know what was used in them before and live on a fixed income, I don't see that happening unless I win the lottery. Use what you can afford and are comfortable with.

 

[SoNic67]

Yes, the problem is there are 2156 billion different answers for 215.6 million different engines.

Actually there is just one answer. Synthetic oils are better than mineral oils. And more expensive.
That's why Ford recommends synthetic blends - to strike a balance between the performance requirements and price.

I don't see why not use a full synthetic. Even if you are tight with the money, you end up keeping the oil more miles, so price per mile is similar. And you protect the engine better.

 

[masospaghetti]

Yes - go full synthetic - if you are changing your own oil, you will probably pay an extra $10-15 for the oil change. Walmart sells Mobil 1 jugs for around $30, and Costco has Mobil 1 six packs (six quarts) for $36, sometimes $26 on special.

Another note - Mobil 1 is almost certainly a grade above other "regular" synthetics like Castrol Edge, Valvoline Synpower, etc. It's a true synthetic product, not a highly refined petroleum one.

NAPA sells Gold oil filters for less than $5 - these are produced by Wix and are extremely well made. Would not recommend anything else.

So you spend an extra $15 (at worst) on oil that will last 50% longer, protect your engine better, and give you a slight (1-2%) improvement to your fuel economy. It's a no brainer. Get the Gold oil filter and you have the best oil and filter money can buy for about $35 out the door.

 

[SoNic67]

Mobil 1 lately seems not to be a true Goup 4 oil either. There are reports with higher iron content in oil after using Mobil 1, just google for "mobil 1 high iron"

 

[koda2000]

like i said earlier, use what you can afford and are comfortable with. opinions... everyone's got one. the most important thing is to change your oil and filter regularly.

 

[FIND]

Mobil 1 isn't a true group IV anymore, hasn't been for years. It is a hydrocracked conventional. There was a lawsuit several years back where they won the right to call that synthetic... So now Mobil 1 synthetic is a group III+ mixed with a little group IV base stock... Just like almost every other synthetic on the shelf.

It does have a higher iron content... but that really won't cause any problems for your engine.

IMHO, the Valvoline, Penzoil and Castrol are better formulated than the Mobil 1 these days. But, there really isn't much difference even between them and the Mobile 1. The stuff on the shelf is all the same as long as you stay away from the bargain brands. I used Valvoline nextgen in my last change, and that is the stuff that is 50% recycled oil.

 

[IAmTodd]

I switched my 4.0 over to Rotella T6 at 160k miles. No issues so far.

I always ran my 5.0 with Mobil 0w-30 from 39k to 111k(my span of ownership).

 

[colintrax]

Mobil 1 isn't a true group IV anymore, hasn't been for years. It is a hydrocracked conventional. There was a lawsuit several years back where they won the right to call that synthetic... So now Mobil 1 synthetic is a group III+ mixed with a little group IV base stock... Just like almost every other synthetic on the shelf.

It does have a higher iron content... but that really won't cause any problems for your engine.

IMHO, the Valvoline, Penzoil and Castrol are better formulated than the Mobil 1 these days. But, there really isn't much difference even between them and the Mobile 1. The stuff on the shelf is all the same as long as you stay away from the bargain brands. I used Valvoline nextgen in my last change, and that is the stuff that is 50% recycled oil.

Amsoil and Royal Purple make group 4's and 5's. I'm happy with Amsoil, I can post the results from my oil analysis I got at 6,x..? miles and can do so again when I change it at 12,000.
The reason I switched to Amsoil, I found out Castrol didn't put detergents in the Syntec that I almost ran religiously. Thats why every time I ran Mobile 1 it came black and thick. Penzoil seemed ok, my dad switches between that and Mobile 1.

To the OP, I'd suggest you run synthetic. Of course it's up to you. Do your research, like Find said look on bobistheoilguy.com

 

[FIND]

Group V oils aren't really useful for street cars. Esters don't have a very long life when used in that kind of application. Though, group Vs have a lot of PAO stock mixed in... Pure esters don't work really at all, but still, they are higher in ester bases, which is good fore severe applications, but not long life.

Group IV or Group IV/III blends are usually going to be the best synthetics for use in a daily driver, since they only have enough ester base stock mixed in to help with stress, but retain the PAO for it's durability and stability.

IE. Royal Purple... Lot of money for something not really geared toward a daily driver. Stick with stuff like Amsoil or on the shelf synthetics. Spend any more than that and you are wasting money.


Granted, all of that is much more complex... but I'm trying to give a quick and dirty version... probably too quick and dirty.

 

[colintrax]

^ I know, just saying you could buy group 5. If I raced my dirt bike a little harder I'd buy group 5 for it. But I just run belray semi syn, works good enough and it's cheap. Engine gets rebuilt pretty often anyways, and I tend to keep it around 6,000~9,000 rpms. Don't bang it off the rev limiter much.
I don't wanna rebuild the engine in the explorer until I graduate college and have a 2nd vehicle. So it needs to last another 200,000 miles. Worth spending the extra $ on Amsoil and the extended change intervals is nice

 

[SoNic67]

I switched my 4.0 over to Rotella T6 at 160k miles. No issues so far.

That's what I also run in my 5.0L with 130k miles: Rotella T6 (with 5W-40).
I add some Liqui-Moly too because I have issues with a stuck lifter and lower oil pressure when hot.