1994 Explorer Blown head gasket...I think.

[mr cribb]

I had trouble figuring mine out for a while. I found mine by running the engine and having the radiator cap off. Mine bubbled (violently- as in giant gushes of water coming out of the radiator).

Mine was heads and gaskets. I went with Clearwater Cylinder head, the heads cost $650 gaskets and bolts another $200 and I did the work myself.

If you do the job, make sure you buy new head bolts as they are a TTY (torque to yield) aka one time use only bolt.

There are better choices than Clearwater, but they have a 5 year unlim mileage warranty on the heads. I would suggest someone else because my new heads have bad valve seals in them. I have put 5k miles on the heads since install and it blow oil out the exhaust.

 

[shorty423]

Alright well thanks for the tips and advice, Speaking of the bubbling in the radiator if you start up an explorer and look in the overflow tank and see a slight bit of bubbling is that necessarily a bad thing? I had just added coolant and it was about an inch below to the filler neck when I opened the cap to check after I noticed the bubbles.

 

[mr cribb]

Alright well thanks for the tips and advice, Speaking of the bubbling in the radiator if you start up an explorer and look in the overflow tank and see a slight bit of bubbling is that necessarily a bad thing? I had just added coolant and it was about an inch below to the filler neck when I opened the cap to check after I noticed the bubbles.

With the amount you were low on, I don't believe that would be an issue.

What does your temp gauge read while driving and /or idling? (anything between the O and the M is roughly 180-200 degrees. Mine would run up to the A before the fix (220-240 degrees) which is way too hot.

I swapped out the original temp gauge for and aftermarket with actual numbers (that is how I got my numbers).

 

[shorty423]

Actually, That is a problem I am having. I have never in the 9 months that I've had it seen the temp gauge rise above the mark before the N. I don't know if that's normal but I don't think it is. I am hoping the problem is simply it needing a thermostat.

 

[shorty423]

By the way just to clarify I am talking about my explorer not the one with the blown head gasket, Just thought I would mention that to stop any confusion anyone may have.

 

[mr cribb]

Actually, That is a problem I am having. I have never in the 9 months that I've had it seen the temp gauge rise above the mark before the N. I don't know if that's normal but I don't think it is. I am hoping the problem is simply it needing a thermostat.

That would be the temp sender for the gauge. I got one at autozone for $6.99 it was the valucraft one. They tried selling me the duralast one for $12.99. This is the one wire sender that has a 90* connector. There is a two wire sender, kinda next to the one wire one that goes to the computer for fuel metering purposes, leave this one alone.

Another option is to pick up a cheap electrical temp gauge (the sender replaces the one to the factory gauge cluster). I got mine from O'reilly for $23. (Note: an aftermarket temp gauge by passes the factory gauge and it reads cold after installing an aftermarket temp gauge.)

 

[shorty423]

The temp sending unit was the next thing to replace after the thermostat, However since you have confirmed my original suspicion by saying that it's the temp sender I will definitely replace them both ASAP. I am going to try not to have to replace the factory gauge if possible, But thanks for the help!

 

[mr cribb]

The temp sending unit was the next thing to replace after the thermostat, However since you have confirmed my original suspicion by saying that it's the temp sender I will definitely replace them both ASAP. I am going to try not to have to replace the factory gauge if possible, But thanks for the help!

No problem that's why we are here. I don't know everything nor would I claim to, but I have dealt with cracked heads, blown head gaskets, thermostat issues, temp sender failure, radiator, radiator hoses, heater core, and 2 water pumps, in my almost 3 years of ownership.

I only replaced my temp gauge with an aftermarket unit because I was trying to see what my engine was running at for temp numbers versus letters, before I spent money on my engine. This later turned out to be the failure of the heads and gaskets.

 

[shorty423]

Wow all that in just one Explorer? Or was it multiple? lol This is my first explorer and it's actually my wife's. If they are prone to having all these issues I might consider trying to convince her to trade it. lol

 

[mr cribb]

Wow all that in just one Explorer? Or was it multiple? lol This is my first explorer and it's actually my wife's. If they are prone to having all these issues I might consider trying to convince her to trade it. lol

I got mine in 12-10 had water pump replaced by car lot as part of the deal. A few days later I changed heater core cause it was stopped up.

2-11 I was getting ready to drive from NC to west TN for a new duty station and I changed the radiator cause it was leaking. At the same time I changed the rad hoses cause I was there and I don't do a job half way.

9-11 Clutch and battery

10-11 Thermostat failed and almost overheated, changed it and realized the temp sender was bad for the factory gauge.

9-12 Thermostat again

2-13 blew water pump and overheated. After countless hours diagnosing, determined head was cracked and gaskets gone. Aftermarket temp gauge installed.

11-13 Junkyard Alternator and battery

This may seem like a lot in almost 3 years but that has been 36k miles of use. And it was a hard 36k miles. From 12-10 to 12-12 I used it for a 2nd job delivering pizzas in a busy town. That was a hard 30k miles.

Don't be discouraged. The cooling system is the big secret to a long living OHV 4.0, and as you can tell update the heads and gaskets and you're back on the road. A wise mechanic told me the big secret to an old 4.0 living is don't get it hot.

 

[shorty423]

Okay so basically with these old explorers the best thing you can do is pay attention and do preventative maintenance especially on the cooling system. That actually confirms and explains my suspicions with why my mother in law's explorer has a blown head gasket, They are the kind of people that know a car needs gas and that's about the extent of their mechanical knowledge. lol

 

[mr cribb]

Okay so basically with these old explorers the best thing you can do is pay attention and do preventative maintenance especially on the cooling system. That actually confirms and explains my suspicions with why my mother in law's explorer has a blown head gasket, They are the kind of people that know a car needs gas and that's about the extent of their mechanical knowledge. lol

Correct. I have heard of these engines blowing head gaskets as early as 75k miles, then you get one like mine that doesn't blow until 225k miles. It is really luck of the draw here. 91-92 had the worst luck because of the thinner weaker casting. These years are the when it blow not if, 93-94 was a little bit thicker material in the heads but not great still and they eventually blow.

My heads were purchased from Clearwater cylinder head in Clearwater, FL when I bought mine in Feb '13 they cost $480 (deferred core charge for 30 days of $200) I failed to send mine back due to being lazy and my workload, so mine cost $680. $140 for gaskets and head bolts, call it a grand by the time you get the stupid little stuff you might need or forgot or somehow broke.

If you do tackle the job yourself, the manifold bolts are a PITA to remove, I broke 3 and wound up cutting my exhaust. I put headers in its place because I got a good deal on them. No real gain, it was a just because thing. You also will need a T-55 torx bit to remove and tighten the head bolts. Torque sequence and cleaning the head gasket area of old gasket and crud is key. (I had to do my gaskets twice because of left on crud). The head bolts you have to buy new, Ford made them a one time use bolt, at last check they were $40 for the bolts.

Search for prices and compare. Check rockauto.com for stuff you might need compared to the parts houses where you're at. There is shipping involved, but it may come out cheaper in the long run.

Things I have learned in doing this job:

Don't cheap out on head gaskets. Spend the money on Fel-pro gaskets.

Buy rubber valve cover gaskets, not cork (they're about $20 more than cork but worth it) Rubber doesn't leak like cork and they're more forgiving.

Tightening the head bolts in sequence is a pain in the ... (well for me it was)

Trying to remove the exhaust was pure hell, even after soaking the bolts overnight in a PB blaster / WD40 type of product. I wound up cutting my exhaust as mentioned earlier.

Don't be in a hurry, take your time because rushing leads to mistakes.

 

[shorty423]

Alright well this has been very informative, I have no idea what the plan is with the ''broken'' explorer but as for my wife's explorer I'm gonna start by replacing the thermostat, the temp sender, Then I need to replace the tie rods, Then the control arm and get new tires for it. Then it will be in alright shape, Then I can worry about fixing the 4 power windows that don't go up or down without help and at some point I will replace the arm rest that I broke last weekend! lol