1994 Recirc Door (kinda long)

[massacre]

After using my vacuum pump to test the check valve, I want to replace it as I think it might be bleeding off vacuum after the truck is shut off.
Hopefully it will be easily available

 

[massacre]

Ok, so I am pretty sure my check valve is bad. It rattles very little, if at all. I can get it to kinda hold a vacuum, but it bleeds off. I am looking to replace the check valve. Having a tough time, everything I am finding is similar, but is listing as not fitting my truck, mostly F and E series.
The check valve I have here does not have a part # on it. The white(clear) part has a “7“ on it. The black part says “VAC” and “4049” on it.

I have found some Motorcraft part numbers for check valves, and was wondering if anyone knows which of these parts numbers is correct? Or if none of them are?
Thanks for any help!

# YG 429
#YG 360
#YG 337
#YG 193

 

[ChildIdenticant]

Ok, so I am pretty sure my check valve is bad. It rattles very little, if at all. I can get it to kinda hold a vacuum, but it bleeds off. I am looking to replace the check valve. Having a tough time, everything I am finding is similar, but is listing as not fitting my truck, mostly F and E series.
The check valve I have here does not have a part # on it. The white(clear) part has a “7“ on it. The black part says “VAC” and “4049” on it.

I have found some Motorcraft part numbers for check valves, and was wondering if anyone knows which of these parts numbers is correct? Or if none of them are?
Thanks for any help!

# YG 429
#YG 360
#YG 337
#YG 193

d7oz-19a563-a

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/climate-control/ac-repair-parts/valve-air-conditioner-control-6292715-1#partMatched

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O0V7LM/?tag=serious-20

 

[massacre]

Thanks!
You are a life saver!
I owe you one for sure

 

[massacre]

Just picked up a new check valve. I wanted it sooner rather than later so I just grabbed one from autozone because they had one in stock. I ordered a real one from Tasca lol

This check valve was like night and day compared to the original. I just tested it, and the recirc door is staying closed now for the first time in probably years.
Thanks again to this forum and all the very helpful people here!

 

[massacre]

Been about 10 degrees today and for the past few days. The recirc door will eventually bleed off and open overnight, but it stays closed for a long time.
Also when heat is called for with fan on high, the air is cold at first which I guess would be the HCV or diverter valve opening slowly. Coolant temp gauge is reading operating temp.
I think the king fu move is to call for heat when the truck starts, but not turn the fan on until later.
The way it is now I think the heater core is filled with cold coolant.

I wonder if I should plug the orange vac line in the winter, and then plug it into the diverter valve during the summer?

 

[ChildIdenticant]

believe the diverter is supposed to rest/fail open, possibly to ensure the heater core can be used in an overheat scenario. Slow to heat should not be a matter of the diverter valve unless clogged.
As the orange line to the diverter valve is on the same circuit as recirc door actuator, the heater core should be bypassed only when the function selector is "Off" or "MAX A/C", just as the recirc door. I think the heater shouldn't work when either of those functions are selected, unless of course you have a vacuum leak preventing the diverter from closing.

If you are looking to guarantee the recirc door stays closed (prevent outside air) at all times regardless of vacuum, you can remove your glove compartment and try putting a spacer above the actuator link arm.

 

[massacre]

It seems like the diverter is closed in off/max ac position, meaning the coolant in the heater core is still cold.
When heat is called for maybe the diverter is just slow to open, or maybe it takes a couple minutes for the cold coolant to leave and hot coolant to arrive.
If I plug the orange line, this would keep the diverter open all the time, and still allow the recirc door to operate properly.
Which is fine for wintertime but would be bad for ac use in the summer.
Or I can leave it as is and just not turn the blower on for a couple minutes until heater core is hot. It only takes about 2 minutes. Coolant is new and crystal clear when I drained it last week.
Diverter could possibly be bad/slow as well.