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1994 Recirc Door (kinda long)

After using my vacuum pump to test the check valve, I want to replace it as I think it might be bleeding off vacuum after the truck is shut off.
Hopefully it will be easily available
 



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Ok, so I am pretty sure my check valve is bad. It rattles very little, if at all. I can get it to kinda hold a vacuum, but it bleeds off. I am looking to replace the check valve. Having a tough time, everything I am finding is similar, but is listing as not fitting my truck, mostly F and E series.
The check valve I have here does not have a part # on it. The white(clear) part has a “7“ on it. The black part says “VAC” and “4049” on it.

I have found some Motorcraft part numbers for check valves, and was wondering if anyone knows which of these parts numbers is correct? Or if none of them are?
Thanks for any help!

# YG 429
#YG 360
#YG 337
#YG 193
 






Ok, so I am pretty sure my check valve is bad. It rattles very little, if at all. I can get it to kinda hold a vacuum, but it bleeds off. I am looking to replace the check valve. Having a tough time, everything I am finding is similar, but is listing as not fitting my truck, mostly F and E series.
The check valve I have here does not have a part # on it. The white(clear) part has a “7“ on it. The black part says “VAC” and “4049” on it.

I have found some Motorcraft part numbers for check valves, and was wondering if anyone knows which of these parts numbers is correct? Or if none of them are?
Thanks for any help!

# YG 429
#YG 360
#YG 337
#YG 193
d7oz-19a563-a
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O0V7LM/?tag=serious-20
 






Thanks!
You are a life saver!
I owe you one for sure
 






Just picked up a new check valve. I wanted it sooner rather than later so I just grabbed one from autozone because they had one in stock. I ordered a real one from Tasca lol

This check valve was like night and day compared to the original. I just tested it, and the recirc door is staying closed now for the first time in probably years.
Thanks again to this forum and all the very helpful people here!
 






Been about 10 degrees today and for the past few days. The recirc door will eventually bleed off and open overnight, but it stays closed for a long time.
Also when heat is called for with fan on high, the air is cold at first which I guess would be the HCV or diverter valve opening slowly. Coolant temp gauge is reading operating temp.
I think the king fu move is to call for heat when the truck starts, but not turn the fan on until later.
The way it is now I think the heater core is filled with cold coolant.

I wonder if I should plug the orange vac line in the winter, and then plug it into the diverter valve during the summer?
 






believe the diverter is supposed to rest/fail open, possibly to ensure the heater core can be used in an overheat scenario. Slow to heat should not be a matter of the diverter valve unless clogged.
As the orange line to the diverter valve is on the same circuit as recirc door actuator, the heater core should be bypassed only when the function selector is "Off" or "MAX A/C", just as the recirc door. I think the heater shouldn't work when either of those functions are selected, unless of course you have a vacuum leak preventing the diverter from closing.

If you are looking to guarantee the recirc door stays closed (prevent outside air) at all times regardless of vacuum, you can remove your glove compartment and try putting a spacer above the actuator link arm.
 






It seems like the diverter is closed in off/max ac position, meaning the coolant in the heater core is still cold.
When heat is called for maybe the diverter is just slow to open, or maybe it takes a couple minutes for the cold coolant to leave and hot coolant to arrive.
If I plug the orange line, this would keep the diverter open all the time, and still allow the recirc door to operate properly.
Which is fine for wintertime but would be bad for ac use in the summer.
Or I can leave it as is and just not turn the blower on for a couple minutes until heater core is hot. It only takes about 2 minutes. Coolant is new and crystal clear when I drained it last week.
Diverter could possibly be bad/slow as well.
 






Reviving this thread.
I just chased my tail for a couple of days, trying to figure out why my heater was blowing cold air.
Heater control valve was leaking slightly, bought a new valve. The old one disintegrated in my hand, so that was for sure bad. Also replaced the 2 short hoses from the valve to the core. Easy peasy, right? Still no heat. Removed cover under dash and put my hand right on the heater core and it was cold. Figured i had an air bubble, bought one of those burp funnels, got a little bit of air but no change. The hoses got warm but not really hot. I've had thermostat get stuck open before, kinda seemed like that might be it. Bought new thermostat, and new heater core since it is original. Replaced thermostat and heater core. Put new foam on the heater core, it seals real good now the old foam was dead.
Engine got up to temp, still no dang heat. Hoses to/from heater core were warm, but not hot.
I really should have figured this out earlier, but i obviously wasn't paying attention.

The dang valve was closed.
I finally noticed after all that work, that the valve was in fact closed. I thought i may have accidentally closed it when putting the vacuum line on. Removed vac line, instant heat. Put vac line back on, valve closed, no heat. Since it is winter time, i just put a screw in the vac line and left it off. I now have nice hot heat, i could dry clothes in the truck now.
So the valve did need replacing, and the thermostat was suspect, but the heater core was likely fine. I am saving it as a backup just in case.

So, now that i have figured out the problem - does anyone know why i would have vacuum on that line when i shouldn't?
I was under the impression that this line should only see vacuum in "off" and "max AC". This problem is fairly new, the heat was working OK last winter. There is a check valve involved within the vacuum circuit with the tank. I'm wondering if that check valve could be bad? I haven't checked out the unit behind the dash yet, could the vacuum lines be routed incorrectly?
It seems that the orange vac line connects from the recirc door to the valve, i haven't really messed with that yet but wondering if that has something to do with it.

Been working on vehicles my whole life, i've had no vacuum before where there should be vacuum, but never had vacuum when there shouldn't be lmao. I'm positive that the valve is installed in the correct orientation, the AC switch is not turned on, "warm" is selected for temp, and it is not in "max AC" position either.

Any advice would be great, it's fine for now with the vac line plugged and disconnected but i'm just curious as to how this happened/is happening. Maybe i installed a vacuum line wrong on the unit behind the dash? I'll check that out come springtime i think, too cold to be messing with it now.
Thanks and have a nice day!
 






Hmm, sorry to hear that. I have issues with two of my 98's, but so far I think the vacuum functions are okay. I'll check that HCV vacuum line again on mine when I go back at it. I hope you figure your 94 out, these old electronic circuit issues are frustrating.
 












Wow, thanks so much for the speedy and helpful response! Really appreciate it. I seem to remember going through that unit, and there was like a small shuttle valve or similar.
 






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