1994 Transmission Lines: Newbie

[mikeinri]

Hi guys,

Virgin posting here, some background: 260,000 (all original) miles on this beast, "Going for 500,000!" We just had a baby (2 months old now), so I'm not interested in a new truck for a while...

I've been reading lots of great info here for the A4LD. I was having lots of problems with shifting (especially when cold), due to low fluid level (was going through 1/2-1 quart every 300-400 miles). When the truck warmed up, everything was great. I searched the forum, didn't see obvious answers to these questions.

I replaced the rubber cooling lines, which stopped the leaks from hitting the driveway. I replaced the filter and gasket, even though the pan was dry before I started.

I was still losing fluid, so I replaced the vaccuum modulator last weekend. So far, so good, I think this was the real problem.

The only other thing I want to replace are the metal cooling lines (rusty, wet, could they be "weeping" fuid?), I need to do the radiator anyway (pinhole antifreeze leak). I have a few questions about replacing the metal lines.

1. When I am looking at these metal lines (at the point they connect to the tranny) from under the truck, they seem very difficult to reach with any sort of wrench. What is the best tool to use here (combo wrench, stubby, crow's foot, other)?

2. Any other suggestions to think about when pulling these lines?

3. I checked with the Ford dealer (and parts store), they say you need to buy bulk lines and bend your own. What is the best tool to use for bending these lines without kinking them?

4. Related to the vaccuum modulator, I replaced the existing vaccuum line with 1/4 inch fuel line (parts store was out of "vaccuum line"). Will that be OK long-term, or will the heat from the cat converter degrade it? The line that came off was more of a silver-gray color, and was much more flexible than fuel line.

Thanks in advance, and Happy Birthday Glacier!!!

Mike

 

[410Fortune]

I cut my metal lines about 3" after the bend, then use a simple flare tool, and ran rubber (high temp auto trans cooler line) lines from the trans to the radiator and back to the trans from the auz cooler. My Bronco has been setup this way for years.

Your gas line should hold vacuum

I suspect your ATF leak (if you still have one) is either inside the radiator or from the front pump seal.

 

[Glacier991]

410's advice is sound. But to answer you more directly, you can either use an inexpensive coil spring tubing bender (it goes on the tubing to prevent it from collapsing when you bend it, or buy a hand tubing bender.

As for the disappearing AT, my bet was you had a leaking modulator.

The fittings can be tough to get to. If you have trouble getting them loose use a flare nut wrench to keep from damaging the fittings.

Good luck, and thanks.

 

[mikeinri]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

The suggestion to change to rubber lines is... BRILLIANT! Can't believe I didn't think of something so obvious. Truth be told, they only look rusty near the front of the truck, so I could just cut out the rusty sections and stay completely away from the transmission.

Flare wrench is also a good idea. Seemed to me someone on this forum would know what to use, since some folks seem to have pulled quite a few of these trannys.

So, a normal-length (handle) flare wrench will fit up there? I honestly didn't try it, just took one look and thought, "Oh, my, this is going to suck..." Looked at it again the next day, didn't seem any easier...

You don't happen to know the wrench sizes needed for this?

Mike

 

[Glacier991]

7/8's American (SAE) fits and works.... there may be a metric size that fits even better.

 

[95-XLT-VT]

If you are going to replace the lines with new hard ones, or install a new 90 degree bend at the transmission to put on rubber lines cut the old lines off close to the fitting (hacksaw, etc) and use a six point socket and ratchet to get them off. Do a little prep work and get new fittings from the dealer (they're about $12 each), and soak the old ones with penetrating oil. I usually use a breaker bar so I can rock the fitting back and forth for the first few turns. Good luck...

 

[mikeinri]

Thanks, I did think about that (cutting off the using a socket). A few follow-up questions:

1. Does the line fitting go into another fitting that then goes into the transmission? I think the lines are set up that way on the radiator, and you need to put a wrench on the "back" fitting.

2. If the answer to question #1 is yes, are you saying to remove both fittings, or just the part attached to the tubing?

3. Once this is off, what is the best type of wrech to use to install the new lines? I forgot that in addition to flare wrenches, combo wrenches, stubby wrenches and crow's feet, there are also the half-moon and s-curve wrenches. Would any of those help in this situation?

Thanks again guys, trying to get all the info so I only have to go shopping (for tools and parts) once...

Mike

 

[95-XLT-VT]

I haven't looked too closely under the truck to see what happens on the transmission (I also have a 95 so it may be different), but if it is two fittings I would take off the outer one only if possible. Hold the other with a wrench to keep it from turning. As for putting the new one together - generally fittings go together easier then they came apart... If you have it, use a flare wrench. Or, for the fitting at the transmission you can use an open end to run the fitting in most of the way, then feed the box section along the lines and use the box to snug them down the last little bit. (Don't forget to feed the wrench off the line before hooking it up at the radiator.. ) At the radiator it's wide open to swing wrenches around. Good luck...

 

[mikeinri]

Again, too obvious, thanks! Running the wrench along the length seems like a good idea. Still not sure how long of a wrench I can use, guess I'll just do trial by fire.

One other thing I noticed, the boot on the front driveshaft was torn (driveshaft going from transfer case to front differential). AutoZone said they didn't have anything for that. I'm looking online, and must not be describing it correctly for the search engines, nothing is coming up.

This boot covers the connection between the driveshaft and the slip yoke. Anyone know what this is actually called, and where to get a replacement (preferably one that doesn't require removing the drivesaft)?

Mike

 

[Glacier991]

On the tranny there is a single fitting.

 

[410Fortune]

you must remove the driveshaft to clean, lube the slip yoke and to replace the boot.

 

[mikeinri]

OK, now I'm getting irritated...

So far, I've gone to AutoZone, NAPA and another local place, besides searching online, and no one has this boot (the one for the slip yoke on the front drive shaft - from transfer case to front differential).

Today, I went to a Ford dealer, and they basically laughed me out of there when I said it was a 1994. He told me most things for that year come up as "obsolete" or "discontinued." He wouldn't even take the time to look it up in the computer (needless to say, they'll never get any of my business).

The truck is 13 years old, but it certainly isn't an antique! I see tons of them on the road, every day!!!

Anyone got a suggestion as to where I can get this? Or, at least a real part number (maybe from a service manual)? I've moved since I bought this Explorer, and the original Ford dealer I used is over an hour from my house, so that's one other last resort.

Mike

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I also get that kind of talk from the dealers, so I make every attempt to locate parts from other sources. I think WWW.Motormite.Com should have these boots. They are usually in the Help section (that is the product line name it goes under). I would also suggest installing an external spin on oil filter kit (external filter for ATF). This should help to prevent internal fragments which float around from clogging things up.