1995 xlt rear differential | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

1995 xlt rear differential

juggaloscorpio

Active Member
Joined
June 10, 2007
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
City, State
Sherman, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 XLT
i have a stock 95 ex xlt and i was told today that my read bearing is going out and i need a new one but i wan to make sure i am buying the right one i was told it has a locking differential but not sure what the gear ratio is. so what im asking is what is the stock gear size/ratio and what is the next size up from that and would i have to replace the front if i get a bigger rear. any help is very appreciated. still lovin the site thanks!!!:D
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Gear ratio code is on the door jam. There also should be a tag on the diff.

Any changes to either differential ratio MUST be made to both.

When you drop the cover, you will see if it's a posi or not. If your not sure how to tell, do not attempt this repair. It's over your head. No flame or disrespect intended.
 






Like Cobraguy said, the axle codes are on the drivers side door jam.
This code will tell you if it is a limited slip or not.
You can do a search on axle codes or just post it here and someone will tell you what you have.
 






rear diff

i cant get a good enough pic to post but i can get all the info u need just tell me what exact #'s to put up and i will do so but i wrote down all i could since i am at work but it shows the following:

front gvwr-2710lb-1229kg
rear gvwr-2900lb-1315kg

wb-112
type gvm-U34T
trans-T
axle-D4
tape-D
springs-B F

5280lb/2394kg

other than that i only see factory set psi for tires and the original lug pattern but if any other info is needed please dont hesitate to ask for it and thats again for the help.
 






You're probably going to want to skip out on changing the gear ratio -- parts and labor to change both gears on both axles will hover around $1000 ($500 for the gearset and another $500 for the labor).

As for the bearing thats going bad, find out exactly which one it is because if its the "wheel bearings", then the only thing that needs to be done to the differential is to open it in order to remove the C-clips (which retain the axle shafts). On the other hand, if its the "carrier bearing" or the "pinion bearing" (its not unheard of for this one to go bad), then the differential will need to be removed.
 






i was told it was the pinion bearing. my mechanic removed the diff plug and showed me that there is metal shavings that have caused a black goo inside and stated there is supposed to be fluid not goo and it need to be replaced and he also showed me that my rear rotors are bad too and cant be resurfaced. can you tell by the numbers i put up if it is an 8.8 w/3.73 gear ratio?? i found a complete rear end for $350 that is a locking 3.73 off of a 99 4dr with 133,x.. is this a good price???
 






I would disconnect the driveshaft and see if you can move the pinion flange up and down. If you can, then yes the bearings need to be replaced. Also, another good indication for a pinion bearing that needs to be replaced is a leak around the pinion flange because when the pinion is loose, it tends to destroy the seal as it wobbles around.

About the mechanic pulling the plug and the black goo -- that is normal, don't put all your trust in the mechanic when he says that the pinion is bad (check as stated above). Most drivetrain components will have that black/gray sludge that sticks to the magnet (the diff plug is magnetized). Besides the differnetials, you will also find sludge in the transfer case and the transmission.

And the D4 code means you have a 3.73 with limited slip.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top