1996 Cargo Area

[nmdag]

Stupid question... something got stuck up in an interior area in the back of my '96 four door.. Up behind the alarm module in the left rear panel. Object should be somewhere between the wheel well and the top of the panel. I've reached my hand as far down as it goes but my arm is not long enough. I've done everything short of ripping the interior plastic off, which is what I suspect I have to do.

Has anyone done or encountered anything like this?

Picture 1 is the panel
http://postimg.org/image/5xcje2irb/
Picture 2 is the inside of the panel, the box with the wires is, to my knowledge, the alarm unit.
http://postimg.org/image/xd679eid3/
Something went up behind the box and down into some unknown space between the interior and the wheel well

 

[DjDom]

Panel comes off pretty easy, all clipped in. Just pull out all the clip and play with it to shift it out.

 

[nmdag]

Panel comes off pretty easy, all clipped in. Just pull out all the clip and play with it to shift it out.

You're talking about the big moulding that goes up around the window and around the bottom right?

I imagine I'll need a big flathead to get to prying.

 

[DjDom]

Yeah, I've had the passenger side one off a couple of times.

Getting the clips out is easy.. just use a clip removal tool. There are 3 screws under the carpet that hold it in, you just have to pull back the carpet, you'll see them.
The seat belt also has the be unbolted..

After that, it's just a pain to wiggle out of the way.

Sounds like a lot of work, but it's not terrible, I can do it in about 5-10 minutes now, trying not to damage anything.

 

[nmdag]

Yeah, I've had the passenger side one off a couple of times.

Getting the clips out is easy.. just use a clip removal tool. There are 3 screws under the carpet that hold it in, you just have to pull back the carpet, you'll see them.
The seat belt also has the be unbolted..

After that, it's just a pain to wiggle out of the way.

Sounds like a lot of work, but it's not terrible, I can do it in about 5-10 minutes now, trying not to damage anything.

Sounds good. Hopefully Autozone has one of those tools.

Thank you.

$300 piece of equipment lodged back there..

 

[toypaseo]

Here are some panel popper tools shown by [MENTION=9927]MONMIX[/MENTION]...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147801

My ex-ford neighbor loaned me his Snap-On ASG-185A, shown below, and it worked great. After that, I finally ran across the three piece set on eBay for cheap, so I have my own set now. This particular one stays in my junkyard tool bag and has came in handy besides just lifting interior clips out.

 

[nmdag]

Mine is nearly the same. $9.99 at Autozone. Made removal a cinch. Used the rubber handle as a hammer to pop them back in.

The extraction was a success.

Bumper guard trim was removed, 2 screws
3 screws underneath the carpet attaching the trim to the body
About 6 large clips around the edge of the trim piece
3 smaller clips in the middle just under the window
Removed the seat belt bolt - Size 45 star socket (had to buy this)
Disconnected the door lock switch
One more point of connection that I couldn't get was a hex head bolt that's inside the coat hanger. Otherwise I would have popped the whole piece of trim off.

But I was able to pull back the piece of trim far enough and reach up behind the RAC unit to get it. $300 saved!

Also found $1.25 in quarters under the seat!

 

[toypaseo]

If I remember correctly, that hex head in the coat hanger in the weird 5.5MM size.

I can't remember if I bought a deep 5.5MM socket for removal if that, or for something else. Someone (can't remember :scratch recommended buying one for removal of something (can't remember :scratch but I do know that it has came in handy on a few occasions.

 

[nmdag]

If I remember correctly, that hex head in the coat hanger in the weird 5.5MM size.

I can't remember if I bought a deep 5.5MM socket for removal if that, or for something else. Someone (can't remember :scratch recommended buying one for removal of something (can't remember :scratch but I do know that it has came in handy on a few occasions.

Yea I tried to find one that would work in the free use parts bucket at the store but gave up and just kinda pulled the trim back far enough and wedged myself in there.

The deep socket would be necessary as it would have to be long and skinny enough to reach into the recessed area in the the little piece of plastic. I almost just bashed it with a hammer to knock the plastic off I was so mad, as I was all happy to be almost done and was on my way to the remove the part with a Phillips driver as I expected it to be just a simple screw. Then decided to ignore it and force my way in.

If there are enough recessed 5.5mm bolts on the Ford (probably all trim pieces, nothing in the engine bay) it might be useful to have one in the back even if it means buying a specialty set.

On the other hand, I'm quite pleased with my new Duralast star socket set (Only $24.99), they're even powder coated. I threw it in the back behind the rear windscreen fluid tank.

 

[toypaseo]

If there are enough recessed 5.5mm bolts on the Ford (probably all trim pieces, nothing in the engine bay) it might be useful to have one in the back even if it means buying a specialty set.

I think I bought mine at Autozone, and I think they were the only ones that had it in stock, even with Sears, NAPA, Advance Auto, and Carquest around. It was cheap. I didn't think it needed to be some high dollar name brand since it would only be pry removing interior screws, and not some high-torque bolts.

 

[nmdag]

I think I bought mine at Autozone, and I think they were the only ones that had it in stock, even with Sears, NAPA, Advance Auto, and Carquest around. It was cheap. I didn't think it needed to be some high dollar name brand since it would only be pry removing interior screws, and not some high-torque bolts.

Yea I thought about just using a flathead but the construction makes it real easy to get under the thing and hooking the insert and the leverage just makes a simple twist all you need.

Next up on the list!

Ignition coil (174k), plugs, wires
Brakes (going for drilled/slotted rotors and fancy pads all the way around)
Suspension (want to keep ride height the same, the parts are just old)
Customize the interior, new head unit, etc

 

[toypaseo]

Not sure why Autozone shows a straight body socket, unless their design changed. Mine is shaped like the left one in this sample pic. I think the smaller diameter area of the body came in handy to remove some screws (like the coat hanger screw?).

 

[nmdag]

That's exactly what I was looking for. But it was unnecessary to achieve my goal. Still good to know though, for future reference purposes.

 

[DjDom]

Random Hint/Tip:

The coat hanger screw isn't on very tight. I took it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Takes a little while, but works.

 

[koda2000]

I used an SAE socket from my old S&K 1/4" socket set. Don't recall what size fit, but it fit well enough to get the job done. As far as my trim tool, I think I got it from Autozone about 10 years ago. It's just stamped steel with a rolled handle and fork which is thinner at the business end to help get it under stuff. Works great for door panels, the lift-gate interior trim clips and the plastic button things around the rear windows. It was only a couple of bucks.