1996 Explorer doesn't start when it's hot. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1996 Explorer doesn't start when it's hot.

Which sensor? Where is it located? I replaced my coolant sensor when I was doing the CAM synchronizer, since it was easy access when I had the coil packs off. It didn't help though.
 



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if it isn´t the fuel pressure, it might actually be the coil, i had the exact same problem with a dodge v8 twice, and first it was the coil, which had exceded it´s functional life, and the second time it was because they installed a wrong coil, and when it was in running temp for a while, it would take forever for it to start again (until it cooled down). After that, i replaced the coil with a new one and that was it.
 






I replaced the coils recently, 'cause I had picked up a used set for free, and they were hardly used. I haven't really noticed a difference, I don't think.
 






Fuel Pump

I was having this same issue with my 1996 Explorer. I found your forum trying to find out what it could be. I lived with the issue for about a year until the truck would not start anymore even cold. I took it this week and got it back today. It was a bad fuel pump. The truck is now running good and I've let it sit for an hour twice to today and it has started with no issue afterwards. The fuel pump was $240 plus $78 to install at a local NAPA shop. Hope this helps.
 






$78 to install?! Don't you have to drop the gas tank to replace it?! If I could get it replaced for $78, I'd do it tomorrow.
 






I don't know if they had to drop the tank or not I didn't ask any questions when he gave me the quote. It's just a little local NAPA shop that has been really cheap for me and done great work. I know they charge $45/hr. Don't they usually have to drain the tank if they have to drop it? I didn't lose the full tank I had just put in. Good luck on price. I was worried that the warm start issue may have been something else and the the pump and given out making it not start cold, but I haven't had a warm start issue since it was replaced and I've started it warm 8 times now.
 






I am having a similar problem. Only when its hot out. The first time i start my car in the day it starts fine but if i turn it off and try starting it soon after it wont start. If i let it sit for an hour or two, depending on how hot it is out then it will start right up. Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong with it and about how much it would cost to fix?
 






same things going on with my 94 ex.
the fuel pump was bad tho.
im not sure if thats all cus im still w8 for other parts to come in.
it was only 28 psi.
 






This may work for you on getting that hot temp ford to start

First of all let me say this site has been a fantastic help to me personally. I have spent 2 years trying to find some shop that could figure out why my Ford will start great in the mornings - drive it for 15 minutes or so - shut it down for 20 min. or so and it will run really rough and then won't start at all.

After spending about two hours reading every bit of information on this issue from other posters I found the issue :)!!!!

First of all I knew it had to be a heat sensitive issue that was triggering a sensor of some sort. This site after reading many post told me that it was either one of the following sensors:

1. Fuel Pressure Regulator
2. Crankshaft Position Sensor
3. Camshaft Position Sensor
4. Ignition Control Module
5. Ignition Coil
6. Fuel Pump Relay
7. Engine coolant temp sender (very unlikely)

NOW - I figured the way to solve this issue after what has been two years of headache I figured the best way to make the symptoms occur would be to individually locate one sensor at a time and with a hair blow dryer on extreme
heat - heat that sensor until good and hot and then try and start the engine. If it starts great after 4 tries - that is not the sensor. I would let everything cool down (don't ever run the engine long enough to have it heat up at all - you want it to stay cool the entire time. Then I went from one sensor to the next doing the same process and finally - second sensor from the end of my list ( I did not go in the order shown above) I finally found the culprit. FOR ME it was the Camshaft Position Sensor!!!! When I got it good and hot and then went to start the car it did exactly what it would do in a driving condition - rough start attempt and then it just wouldn't start. Then I used the dryer on COLD air and cold down the sensor - car started right up! Did this 3 times to make sure that it was the CPS and all 3 times same results.

Once again - thanks to you all for your assistance and I hope this method allows others to find the culprit for free since it seems no shop has ever been able to find out with my car what was wrong. What a rewarding experience - oh I forgot to mention - I know nothing about cars, but I did build an airplane so I like working on mechanical things. Good luck to those that have the same issue with engine heat up and no start. Thanks again

Kye
 






Nice work Kye!
I didn't even know a CPS sensor would do that.

I had a temp sensor go bad on a older throttle body van . It would start but run really rich..black smoke.
 






hi, i know this post is old but i have no option to write m query here.

95 ford, start the engine at 8 am- starts and runs good. shut it down- never starts.
cylinder 3 is dead, spark plugs, cables, fuel injector are all good. what could be the possible problem?
 






hi, i know this post is old but i have no option to write m query here.

95 ford, start the engine at 8 am- starts and runs good. shut it down- never starts.
cylinder 3 is dead, spark plugs, cables, fuel injector are all good. what could be the possible problem?
If all that is true you likely have a cracked head. A leakdown test or rent a pressure tester, advance does it free, that can confirm. To make a long story short K-seal worked fine for me, driving it for months. If you really plan on keeping the truck and it has no rust you can replace the head, there is no timing it is a pretty straightfoward job.
 






i'd say the truck is rusted- the body is.

you mean fuel pressure test?
 






i'd say the truck is rusted- the body is.

you mean fuel pressure test?
A coolant tester pump. It cost $250 but you get your money back. Will tell if you have a crack in your coolant system
 






ok, whle i drove it yesterday for around 12 miles and suddenly it died like no gas. fortunately it did not dive in the river which was 5 meters away. rest for 5 minutes and it started again. it is because of the fuel pressure?
 












need to get ot the mechanic for codes, is there any other way i could get that?

in the meantime i got 2002 ford ranger xlt, good buy?
 












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