i just changed my upper control arms, lower ball joints, sway bar end links, front brake pads and spark plugs as long as i was in there. moog suspension parts from RockAuto about $175 (shipping included). it took me about 7-8 hours with the spark plugs and brake job. spark plugs (8) autolite dbl platinum, ceramic front brake pads and miscellaneous stuff about $100 at AutoZone. 2001 EB 5.0, auto 2WD
Tools Used:
floor jack and jack stands
1/2" and 3/8" ratchets, extensions and various metric sockets
a 1 foot piece of pipe for added leverage
various metric wrenches
3lb hammer (aka the BFH)
pieces of a AutoZone loaner ball joint press tool (piece of junk but it was free)
5/8 deep socket for spark plugs (not a spark plug socket)
needle nose pliers and a pair of diag cutters (for cotter pins)
large adjustable wrench for axle nut
snap ring pliers (can do w/out)
med sized pry bar or large screw driver
impact wrench (can do w/out but makes job easier/faster)
2 jaw puller to release lower bj from steering knuckle (can use a pickle fork)
grease gun w/multi purpose quality grease
WD40
large c-clamp for brake calipers (only if changing pads)
torque wrench
jack front wheels off the ground, put truck on jack stands
remove front wheels
remove front brake calipers (hang on piece of wire)
remove brake pads (note locations if reusing)
remove caliper mounting brackets
remove front rotors
remove rotor splash shields
remove bolt for ABS wire support (don't try to remove ABS sensor) and release the 2 plastic wire support clamps to get enough slack in the wire
remove old sway bar end links (note: if original parts you may need to cut them off because the bolt rusts in the plastic sleeve)
remove upper bj pinch bolts from steering knuckles.
remove lower bj snap ring, cotter pin and nut
remove fender splash shield/mud flap (not necessary on 2 piece uca on passenger side unless changing spark plugs) pry off with neddle nose pliers or panel removal tool. if you break the plastic clips, you can get new ones at any auto parts store, just take one with you for size.
use 2 jaw puller to release lower bj's from steering knuckle (or pickle fork)
use pry bar to release upper bj's from steering knuckle (or large screw driver) they should come right out
swing steering knuckles out of the way on tie rod ends, unbolt d/s uca making note of alignment shim location/position and remove (this was the hardest part of the job, as brake and fuel lines are in the way of easily removing the bolt. i found i was able to move the lines slightly by releasing them from their plastic clips). installed new driver's side uca in reverse order of removal (note: install grease fitting and boot before installing arm and make sure grease relief slot in boot faces away from wheel).
i supported lower control arms with floor jack, removed snap rings, cleaned out dirt from between ball joint and control arm, sprayed with WD40 and hammered old bj out (not that hard to do with BFH) cleaned the lca bj hole of any dirt/rust. note: my truck has never been exposed to road salt so your results may differ.
i found the AZ joint press was not large enough, nor did it have enough of the right size adapters to press in the new lower bj's so i used adapter pieces, a large socket and my floor jack to install the new bj (note: make sure the grease release slots in the boots face away from wheel) and with the truck just lifting off the jack stands i used my trusty BFH and more WD40 to seat the new bj's. i hammered the new bj's in by hitting the lca (again not that hard to do).
install the new snap rings on the lower bj's.
note: if your passenger side upper control arm is the 2 piece design, you won't have to remove the large bolt like you did on the driver's side. just remove the 2 nuts facing you. DON"T touch the bolt on the front of the p/s uca. it's for caster adjustment only and the arm is slotted to slide right off of it. this bolt actually remains lose. i could turn mine with my fingers once the uca was removed, but leave it where it was and just bolt on the new uca.
reinstall the steering knuckles and other parts in reverse order of removal and be sure to use thread locker where appropriate (brake parts) and a torque all nuts/bolts to spec.
install the new sway bar end links last and get both in place before tightening the bolts. don't tighten the bolts so much that the bushings start swelling.
don't forget to grease bj's before driving. and you'll need a wheel alignment when you're done.
If you any questions, feel free to PM me. this was a pretty easy job to do. a lot of steps, but on a scale of 1-10 i'd give it a 6. i have two 2001 x's and now that i've done one, i think i could change the bj's in the other in about 4-5 hours. good luck!
